[SOLVED] P2100 after new pigtail for throttle body

StayFrausty

Frok
Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
Decided to create a thread for this

Tl;dr electrical issues please help

Alright sorry for the long post but I need to give as much detail here as I can

*inhales*

My cars been down for 2 weeks. Got a JMF and had a leaky gasket so got TIG gaskets from Adapted Performance (amazing) and fixed it. In the process tho, I’m a dumbass and didn’t know you needed to push down ASWELL as undo the red clip for the throttle body connector. (I would only undo clip) So I’ve just been yeeting it thinking mine was messed up. Ended up needing a new throttle body from Shelby Salyers because the tab on mine got shaved. As well, I noticed my connector had pieces of it missing, (whether that relates to the following idk) and wouldn’t seat on the new throttle body. It would just kinda bounce off. So now I realize my connector is also boofed somehow

So, I bought a new tb pigtail ( https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/4478 ) I found on JTs thread and that seats great on the new TB. Just needed to wire. Here’s where the fun begins. At first I just use crimp connectors. Made sure to match the correct wires. Gave them all a good tug, all of them weren’t going anywhere. Used heat shrink then Wrapped them all individually then all together after that. Plugged her in and SHE STARTED GREAT. Idled to temp and I drove it down the block to a nice road, did a pull, as I was coming back into my neighborhood p2100 (throttle actuator circuit open) shit sounded like a pile of garbage. Like a cam but 2x speed since I was moving. Was able to turn it on again and drive into my garage. Well fuk me. So today I received some self soldering connectors and redid the wiring. All seemed good, pulled and tugged they weren’t going anywhere. Solder melted. All looked fine and I started it for like 20 seconds and it idled fine. Turned it off because I wanted to hear a cold start on my new exhaust, turned it on and after 10 seconds p2100 came back. Well fuck my ass. I don’t know what else to do.

*exhales*

I REALLY don’t want to get a new harness but I’m kind of running out of ideas. It’s just one god damn plug, like wtf could I have done. No other codes other than VTCS and egr related cause those are gone. Only p2100.

Is there a fuse related to the throttle body that maybe is blown? But wouldn’t that mean it wouldn’t work at all. Idk any ideas are helpful at this point.

Also just entertain me, what would need to come off in order to swap the harness with the motor in the bay lmao

Lmk if I need to take anymore pictures or need to provide more info cause I’m sure I’m missing something

Here you can see the right side of the connector is chipped off and the red clip was gone, I found a new clip but it did nothing. (Whether or not this contributed to it not seating idk)
55A2B192-AFF1-4546-8DCB-65C604B3E12F.jpeg

here’s the first time I wired it
36311D10-BFBC-4972-BB73-78E877DD3414.jpeg
9B8F4203-1AA6-4CE6-BF1E-668DC11F8BE4.jpeg

here’s the second
5EEA518D-CB48-4A3A-AF3B-DA8DBD3B048D.png
957524F7-D346-44F6-ACA2-D514C113046A.jpeg
5A002A87-2505-4DF6-96C2-489DFB60E347.jpeg

Also have a video of how it sounds. Sweet cam lmao
 

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“Achievement unlocked”

P050A after reflashing my tune. Nothing else. Gave p2100 a friend I guess. I’m losing my fucking mind
 
Crimp connectors are never good. Even with the built in solder ones. The next step is to use a multimeter and check all the wires for the throttle body between the throttle body plug and the ECU.

Check the ECU for corrosion in it's connector. Make sure you actually matched the wires properly. Check and make sure none of them have continuity to ground or power.

See this thread for information on electrical testing if you aren't sure of how to do it

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-diagnose-thread.12295/#post-89981
 
Alright so I swapped throttle bodies back to my original one, the new pigtail actually seated it just doesn’t clip obviously since the tab on the tb is shaved off.

car cold started normal and everything seems fine now. Even two stepped a few times and no issues. Might ziptie and duct tape it for the time being to test it under pulls. If this was my issue I will be relieved. I have another tb already on the way.
 
Dont duct tape it or zip tie it. The zip ties can cause strain on the wires and lead to chaffing or breaking. The tape will leave a nasty residue. Get some dielectric grease and put some on the connector terminals. it will help keep good contact and prevent corrosion.

Or if you need to tape it use some of that woven tape like you used in the images you posted. that stuff is great cause it self adheres and doesnt leave a residue.
 
Dont duct tape it or zip tie it. The zip ties can cause strain on the wires and lead to chaffing or breaking. The tape will leave a nasty residue. Get some dielectric grease and put some on the connector terminals. it will help keep good contact and prevent corrosion.

Or if you need to tape it use some of that woven tape like you used in the images you posted. that stuff is great cause it self adheres and doesnt leave a residue.
Sounds good, yea this would just be temporary to test during pulls and driving. And maybe get to work Friday if my tb doesn’t get here before.
 
Hey @StayFrausty

How is your TB holding so far?

I have the same situation with my gen2, everything was fine until 2 days about when I left with check engine and traction control lights, got
P2100, after I disconnected the connected and tried again, and reset ECU I got P0638 "Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance",

I got high idle like 1000/1200rpm, should be around 850rpm, car is of course tuned full long block etc etc...

Now im not sure what to do, maybe try to get new harness like you did, or change whole TB.

Thanks!
 
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