Tristan Smith
Greenie N00B Member
Year/Make/Model: 2007 Mazdaspeed 3
Mileage: 30k-50k (Replaced Motor with Low Mile CX-7)
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Concern: Running too rich on and off-idle. AFR is a bit more "normal" at OT
DTC's: P2188 and P2178
Modifications: 3" Catback Straightpipe, Ebay Headers (working on it), Cobb SF CAI & Filter, Autotech HPFP, Step Colder Spark Plugs, 160 Thermostat
ECU/Tuning Software: Cobb Stage 1 +SF 93
Tuner:
Is the concern intermittent? It happens pretty regularly most noticeable on start/restart and idle
Can you duplicate the concern?
Recent Repairs: Replaced Camshaft Sensor, fixed a coolant leak coming from my BPV because previous owner swapped the vacuum line and the coolant line.
Correction:
Hey, so basically my car has been giving me the biggest headaches since the day I bought it. Don't wanna give up on it cause it means something to me. So, I need help troubleshooting about a week ago today my car threw two codes. One being P0335 (resolved) and the other being P2188. Since I have fixed the crankshaft sensor the car was running "normal" for a few days then the P2188 came back and about a day later the P2178 showed up. I have already cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the O-ring seal, I did it the same day I replaced the camshaft sensor, and just replaced the spark plugs about 500 miles ago.
It is a swapped motor out of a CX-7, the paperwork given to me by the old owner matched up and the mileage was reported 20k-40k from seller. Since then I've put about 10k on it. I am still running the stock clutch which is on its way out the door, kind of irrelevant but giving all the info I got, stock turbo I'm assuming with ODO miles (181k). It eats fuel which I'm not sure if its just the way I drive or something deeper. Get about 18-19mpg in the city so it says and 21-22mpg on the highway. My AFR is always normal so seeing it go anywhere below 13.00 gets my heart pumping. Another thing I've noticed is that it seems a very underpowered. It still gets up and goes but it just doesn't do it the same as it did before the codes where thrown and even before that I could tell something wasn't right. I used to be able to beat/tie FBO 350z and a stock Kia Stinger Gt before the codes and just the other day I got absolutely walked by a.......STOCK Fiat Spyder 124.
I will upload a few data logs I took today. Outside temp was about 85 at the time. Datalog 6 is a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th WOT pull and Datalog 4 is a 3rd and 4th WOT pull. I know I should be looking at the LTFT and STFT but I'm honestly not sure what those two mean at all. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Also I have bought a protune from freektune I have just been putting off doing it because my car keeps breaking. Also with needing a new clutch find it pointless to get a proper tune if it cant even put the power down anyway.
Mileage: 30k-50k (Replaced Motor with Low Mile CX-7)
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Concern: Running too rich on and off-idle. AFR is a bit more "normal" at OT
DTC's: P2188 and P2178
Modifications: 3" Catback Straightpipe, Ebay Headers (working on it), Cobb SF CAI & Filter, Autotech HPFP, Step Colder Spark Plugs, 160 Thermostat
ECU/Tuning Software: Cobb Stage 1 +SF 93
Tuner:
Is the concern intermittent? It happens pretty regularly most noticeable on start/restart and idle
Can you duplicate the concern?
Recent Repairs: Replaced Camshaft Sensor, fixed a coolant leak coming from my BPV because previous owner swapped the vacuum line and the coolant line.
Correction:
Hey, so basically my car has been giving me the biggest headaches since the day I bought it. Don't wanna give up on it cause it means something to me. So, I need help troubleshooting about a week ago today my car threw two codes. One being P0335 (resolved) and the other being P2188. Since I have fixed the crankshaft sensor the car was running "normal" for a few days then the P2188 came back and about a day later the P2178 showed up. I have already cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the O-ring seal, I did it the same day I replaced the camshaft sensor, and just replaced the spark plugs about 500 miles ago.
It is a swapped motor out of a CX-7, the paperwork given to me by the old owner matched up and the mileage was reported 20k-40k from seller. Since then I've put about 10k on it. I am still running the stock clutch which is on its way out the door, kind of irrelevant but giving all the info I got, stock turbo I'm assuming with ODO miles (181k). It eats fuel which I'm not sure if its just the way I drive or something deeper. Get about 18-19mpg in the city so it says and 21-22mpg on the highway. My AFR is always normal so seeing it go anywhere below 13.00 gets my heart pumping. Another thing I've noticed is that it seems a very underpowered. It still gets up and goes but it just doesn't do it the same as it did before the codes where thrown and even before that I could tell something wasn't right. I used to be able to beat/tie FBO 350z and a stock Kia Stinger Gt before the codes and just the other day I got absolutely walked by a.......STOCK Fiat Spyder 124.
I will upload a few data logs I took today. Outside temp was about 85 at the time. Datalog 6 is a 2nd, 3rd, and 4th WOT pull and Datalog 4 is a 3rd and 4th WOT pull. I know I should be looking at the LTFT and STFT but I'm honestly not sure what those two mean at all. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Also I have bought a protune from freektune I have just been putting off doing it because my car keeps breaking. Also with needing a new clutch find it pointless to get a proper tune if it cant even put the power down anyway.
