Possible fuel issues

Ok so I babies it to work the past 2 days. It seems like it's loading up." With fuel". When I hit the clutch to shift at like 2300 rpms the fuel pressure is at like 1230 and it does not drop while granny shifting and is a very rough ride.. "jumps when letting out on the clutch" I ordered the corksport o-ring kit for my hpfp. I'll get it in around new years. Gonna let the car sit until then.
 
installed the corksport o ring kit last night. well as much of it as possible and cleaned everything as i went. couldnt get the spill valve torn apart. it has stock internals i will replace with corksport internals when i get it back to running correctly. i have not gotten it all put back together yet. now i have a question. what sensor is located under the hpfp.. almost its in the way of removing the hardline from under the hpfp. mine connector from my harness is all smashed up.
 
Spill valve is easiest to crack when the pump is installed in the car, final torque can be done then too. I ended up buying a spare socket and cutting out a slot in It with a grinder like an oxygen sensor socket so that it cleared the clip. Spill valve is definitely worth your attention

Sensor under hpfp? Only one I can think of is the coolant temp sensor wouldn't say that's in the way without a pic I'm not sure what you're talking about IMG_0388-L~2.jpg
 
i tried everything to get it apart. pumps mounted again. ill try with it in the car and see if i can get it apart. yup thats the sensor. guess ill also be looking for a donor harness..
 
Don't need a new harness, you should be able to just go get a new plug, de pin the one on your harness and slide the pins into the new plug. @JohnnyTightlips I know you've found lots of plugs do you know which plug is on that temp sensor?
 
i was able to get the spill valve off the pump. just couldnt get it apart to get to the internal oring and all to clean it.
 
DustinDriver said:
i was able to get the spill valve off the pump. just couldnt get it apart to get to the internal oring and all to clean it.
Click to expand...
Put it all back together. Didn't make a wot "pull", but I cruised around a little. About 2 miles. Car is just as it was before I pulled the pump. Low rpms wot fuel pressure in the 12-1300 psi range. Also just took notice that the lights dim and get brighter when o turn the heat on and off. Maybe just the draw? Or could all if this be due to a shitty battery? I'm almost to the point of just ordering a new pump and new internals.
 
The ground is good. Looks good. I'll hit it with multimeter tomorrow maybe to be sure. Would a low battery case these issues?
 
i dont really see how a low battery could cause only the hpfp to act up and nothing else. i know some wierd things could happen but..... is this even possible?
 
DustinDriver said:
i dont really see how a low battery could cause only the hpfp to act up and nothing else. i know some wierd things could happen but..... is this even possible?
Click to expand...
Ok. I got the spill valve broken down cleaned and out back in the car. Still doing the same thing. Did the prv test again and the pressure only goes up to 1305. Took forever in that time the car cooled down almost. I put a new prv in it before.
 
DustinDriver said:
Ok. I got the spill valve broken down cleaned and out back in the car. Still doing the same thing. Did the prv test again and the pressure only goes up to 1305. Took forever in that time the car cooled down almost. I put a new prv in it before.
Click to expand...
Is there a reason no1 will answer me now?
 
Look I know you need help but not everyone is on here all the time, sometimes I see a message but don't have a chance to respond.


Low battery causes some really funky issues especially the more electronics you add in, so worth checking battery level after it sat over night and do the alternator test. Testing PRV with the car not hot is useless
 
Awafrican said:
Look I know you need help but not everyone is on here all the time, sometimes I see a message but don't have a chance to respond.


Low battery causes some really funky issues especially the more electronics you add in, so worth checking battery level after it sat over night and do the alternator test. Testing PRV with the car not hot is useless
Click to expand...
The car was warm , but being that it took like 15 mins to get to where it did and it was like 25 degrees it was pretty cooled down at that point. Also thanks for all the help given thus far. I'm about to go on vacation so I guess it'll be a week before I can mess with it again.
 
Brand New OEM prv right? What's your fuel pressure at koeo should be around 60psi iirc for itfp.
@Sho thoughts? You know way more about fueling than I do
 
Awafrican said:
Brand New OEM prv right? What's your fuel pressure at koeo should be around 60psi iirc for itfp.
@Sho thoughts? You know way more about fueling than I do
Click to expand...
Iam not with the car now. I'll have to take a look when I get home on the 3rd. I'm new ro the ap also. Is there a way to read the pressure from the itp on the ap?

And yes brand new oem prv
 
Last edited by a moderator:
It'll show as hpfp when the key is on, engine off. When the cars cold it should should be around the 60psi before you would start the car then the hpfp kicks in
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top