Indeed. Hopefully enough moons will have passed soon
Product Ideas
- Thread starter m00secakez
- Start date
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- corksport
CorkSport - Derrick
Approved Vendor
Something like this is what we had in mind.
CorkSport - Derrick
Approved Vendor
What pressure are those numbers measured at? We are going for large end of the scale to give a broad range of use.
Derrick
I'd like to see a battery box that (a) doesn't require hacking the wire harness much (which they actually have in the new box I believe) (b) doesn't have a CS logo molded in (like the gen1 box) (c) has battery hold-downs that stand up themselves, from the factory, without hacking (d) has the holes accurately located (I'm not sure about the new box but my old box was a PITA to get the screws all in, the positions aren't great) (e) has easy management for all wires. I think item E, on the new box, is fixed as far as the ECU wires but I think you still have to pass the battery wires through holes in the box. Ideally there would be wires from the +/- terminals on the battery to captive wires inside the battery box, and the stock terminals would attach to lugs on the outside of the box. That would be freaking awesome.
I'd also like to see an airbox that has a modular system for the wall where the intake goes in, so it can be adapted to work with most intakes. Have a drop-down for the adapter wall for the CS intakes, and possibly other popular intakes. Also have an option to just buy a blank adapter wall so people could cut their own openings or pass-throughs. The adapter wall could be quite inexpensive as it would just be a flat piece of plastic with some holes for attaching it to the rest of the box, therefore it wouldn't be a big problem for people to screw up cutting it a time or two, or to just make a new one if they switched intakes.
An improved OCC dump would be nice too, either a flex shaft with a knob to the dump valve, or an electrical valve with a small panel with lugs so when you want to dump you connect your battery charger to the terminals. Also that would require a dump tube and stuff meant to be left on since at least the instructions for the current one say to only thread it in when dumping. In Michigan there are 3-5 months during which it's inconvenient to put the car in the air. I plan to hack my own system like one or both of these, but since we all have catch cans it seems ripe for something kitted.
Silicone intakes that have couplers at the turbo end so you don't have to buy an entire new intake if you switch turbo, 3" and 3.5". Assuming they are quieter. Or just design a quieting system onto the current offering. I want big flow but I personally don't want all the air rushing, whistling and whining noises. That just makes my 'speed look immature (yes I'm looking at you again Mr. Moro).
Carbon fiber wing that replaces both parts rather than just the upper part. Carbon fiber hood scoop in the stock shape, I don't want an extra beak. Carbon fiber replacement smile insert, I don't much care what's in it as long as it's raw carbon fiber. Real carbon fiber mirror covers. And not heavier than stock for any of the replacements.
I'd also like to see an airbox that has a modular system for the wall where the intake goes in, so it can be adapted to work with most intakes. Have a drop-down for the adapter wall for the CS intakes, and possibly other popular intakes. Also have an option to just buy a blank adapter wall so people could cut their own openings or pass-throughs. The adapter wall could be quite inexpensive as it would just be a flat piece of plastic with some holes for attaching it to the rest of the box, therefore it wouldn't be a big problem for people to screw up cutting it a time or two, or to just make a new one if they switched intakes.
An improved OCC dump would be nice too, either a flex shaft with a knob to the dump valve, or an electrical valve with a small panel with lugs so when you want to dump you connect your battery charger to the terminals. Also that would require a dump tube and stuff meant to be left on since at least the instructions for the current one say to only thread it in when dumping. In Michigan there are 3-5 months during which it's inconvenient to put the car in the air. I plan to hack my own system like one or both of these, but since we all have catch cans it seems ripe for something kitted.
Silicone intakes that have couplers at the turbo end so you don't have to buy an entire new intake if you switch turbo, 3" and 3.5". Assuming they are quieter. Or just design a quieting system onto the current offering. I want big flow but I personally don't want all the air rushing, whistling and whining noises. That just makes my 'speed look immature (yes I'm looking at you again Mr. Moro).
Carbon fiber wing that replaces both parts rather than just the upper part. Carbon fiber hood scoop in the stock shape, I don't want an extra beak. Carbon fiber replacement smile insert, I don't much care what's in it as long as it's raw carbon fiber. Real carbon fiber mirror covers. And not heavier than stock for any of the replacements.
Enki
Motorhead
Let's say 1800 PSI for the sake of argument; flow won't improve much at 2k PSI anyways.
Getting an AEM dryflow filter will reduce a LOT of intake noise.
Heh. A dryflow came with the Freek 3.5" that I have on the car right now (it's the same as the no-straightener HTP 3.5). LOTS of intake noise; it's obvious when the turbo's spinning. I just don't know if the whistle at WOT is a boost leak or the turbo. LOL.
I am, however, going to switch to the JBR silicone that I also have, and we'll see how that sounds. It also has a dryflow, of course. I came from stock, and I guess I have no idea what a "normal" sound is for an aftermarket intake of either type or if it's going to be higher on the HTP with its integrated MAF than on JBR/CS with coupler'd MAF.
bRitzCrackers
Greenie N00B Member
Exhaust manifold with optional EWG port. More options on the market would be good
Meicalnissyen
Greenie N00B Member
I'd like to see some accurate testing done, and solutions found, for reducing underhood temps.
Its a multi faceted issue, and reducing it ( ducting/redirecting radiator output/ shrouding turboand mani/ etc)
would have many knock on benefits from increased charge density, more consistent timing, less KR, less Knock related failures, lower ECT/ fewer hot spots thru the head, longer oil life, longer battery life, more efficient AC, fewer electrical component failures etcetera
Grayham
Greenie N00B Member
Could we get a nice aluminum radiator shroud to cover the open gap like the genpus but could there also be a version for those who want to stay tmic which would either A) allow stock plastic air deflectors or B) have aluminum deflectors molded into the shroud as a sold piece??
A front Pu bumper that looks awesome, fits well, doesn't sag, has good FMIC setup clearance, and is offered painted in original Pu colors 
And a metal, large-capacity methanol tank to go behind the driver's side headlight.
[doublepost=1465451055][/doublepost]
And a metal, large-capacity methanol tank to go behind the driver's side headlight.
[doublepost=1465451055][/doublepost]
I had the whistle until I got the BNR on. Whistle gone. This led me to strongly believe the whistle was a leak. It's a very characteristic sound too...
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ToyCop
Greenie N00B Member
I have a 3" CS SRI and didn't notice any whooshing noise until I added a ETS TMIC. Not sure why it made a difference, but it sounds like a wind tunnel under the hood now.
Not a whoosh, but a whistle. I'm not sure about your noise either. The whistle is very distinct...
i would like to see this aswell
CorkSport - Derrick
Approved Vendor
Just curious: does the way that's designed/installed help with the notorious Genpu bumper sag? Seems like if it were designed with that in mind, it could be a very good solution.
Grayham
Greenie N00B Member
Im wanting one for genwon. But 2 versions, one for people with fmic so it would just be a soild plate and another version for us that want to stay tmic and have either sections cut out for oem ducts or to have duct already molded into one solid piece with the shroud