Proven Parts List - Common Parts that don't suck

DTA axle links for gen2:
Driver side
Passenger side

Does anyone know if the Beck Arnley control arms are any good? Looks like Moog ones for the gen1 are discontinued now, and the page just links to the Beck Arnley. Fortunately for me the gen2 control arms are still available on their site, but wanted to put it out there for the gen1 folks.
 
tmas said:
DTA axle links for gen2:
Driver side
Passenger side

Does anyone know if the Beck Arnley control arms are any good? Looks like Moog ones for the gen1 are discontinued now, and the page just links to the Beck Arnley. Fortunately for me the gen2 control arms are still available on their site, but wanted to put it out there for the gen1 folks.
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I bought the Delphi front lower arms for my Gen 1 and they looked identical to the stock ones. Fit perfectly fine and they work as they should

I also wanted to post an update about some parts I've been using on my built motor/port injection/bnr S6 setup for the last 3k miles.
Denso MAF sensor 197-6040
Denso 673-3204 coil packs
NGK ruthenium plugs 95605
All of these have been working perfectly fine for the last 3k miles since the first start up of the car with the built engine. Car making ~550-600whp according to my tuner Will @ PD tuning on 30psi. That's with the returnless setup maxed out
 
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I got the Motorad 512-185 thermostat and it would not open correctly. It caused overheating. It looks like oem thermostat has metal up against the block to conduct heat better and actually open on time. I uploaded some example pictures.
 

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MazdaMazda said:
I got the Motorad 512-185 thermostat and it would not open correctly. It caused overheating. It looks like oem thermostat has metal up against the block to conduct heat better and actually open on time. I uploaded some example pictures.
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I used the motorad one for a few years without any issues, maybe yours was faulty?
 
Wheel Lugs and replacement.

Don't buy any RockAuto choices. Found out will not work. Mazda OEM are available, some OEM web parts site don't list any just hub assy.
So after a frustrating experience. Axles stuck (20T press) in hubs on Both front axles. I decided that OEM was my last hope.
More Web search found the OEM superseded number. Seems a few Mazda model share the generic lug Mazda part # C236-33062
More searching and found this parts site www.mazdapartsconnect.com
Best they list parts stocking status on their web site. Was only 0.12 more each PXL_20230227_235430180.jpg PXL_20230220_193340983.jpg PXL_20230227_235441860.jpg PXL_20230228_014558891.jpg than Tasca.
Economy shipping still had in hand coast to coast in 4 days.
Another bit of info those wrong 20 parts are considered each.
RockAuto >>>>Our records indicate you've reported problems with 5% of 152 recently ordered items. This rate is far higher than the majority of our customers and, despite our best efforts to resolve those problems, continuing to accommodate such a high rate would make it impossible for us to achieve our mission of keeping auto parts affordable for everyone<<
This is a pain especially if you own a Speed 6 with less cross platform parts compatibility.
 
Engine Block heater for the 2.3 MZR. Phillips Temro was the OEM manufacturer for Mazda. Part was only available to the Canadian market and not the States from my research.

Zerostart 3100002 Engine Block Heater for Ford, Jaguar, Mazda, Lincoln, Volvo, 3/4" NPT Thread | CSA Approved | 120 Volts | 400 Watts https://a.co/d/9hPQLV1

I'll warn you it's a PITA with the motor in the car if you need help/suggestions I've installed one and I know @Awafrican has as well!

If you have the motor out it is easy!

Edit: DEI reflective heat tape on the plug end and cord near the exhaust manifold is a VERY good idea.
 
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Are these the correct part numbers for the Speed 6 O2 sensors. I went direct to the NTK site in hopes of more savings, and it states it's not compatible.
 
907037350 - 51060-G

upload_2025-3-23_20-17-4.png
Advance, AutoZone, Tasca, and RockAuto have nothing. Anything out there that's a replacement?
 
looks like that's just a T20 bulb 12v 25w or 2A which is known as a tailight or rear turn signal bulb
Voltage Automotive (10 Pack) 7443 T20 Automotive Brake Light Turn Signal Side Marker Tail Light Bulb Standard Replacement
https://a.co/d/fflqNGi

looks like this is probably the LED version
SYLVANIA - 7440 T20 ZEVO LED White Bulb - Bright LED Bulb, Ideal for Daytime Running Lights (DRL) and Back-Up/Reverse Lights (Contains 2 Bulbs)
https://a.co/d/1TZvNG9

haven't had to replace these yet but based on the pics you posted as I can't see all the numbers on the bulb this is my best guess as to replacements
 
Alll the other bulbs were too big and returning them all but one that did work.

https://amzn.to/3GhLph5
LASFIT 194 LED Bulb for License Plate Bulb White Bright,T10 168 LED Bulbs Canbus Error Free, 400LM 6000K 192 2825 W5W for Dome Map Trunk Cargo Lights (2-Pack)
 

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Mahle TI20082 Thermostat is another great option. Real close to OEM.

IMG_20250214_143201520_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_143207914_HDR.jpg
 
Understandably that this is a proven working parts list but I wanted to ask if anyone's had anything to say about relief valves off amazon? I've ordered two over time and find that they dont last very long - someone here posted about them being a generic "chinesium" valve haha. Also, when trying to order through my dealer, its considered a non serviceable part and requires the whole rail assembly to be ordered as well - so with that being said, I see that CS & Edge sell them independently but wonder if its all the same and that spending the extra hundo on what's labeled as an oem part would be worth it. Sorry if its a newbish question guys.
 
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