Radium Engineering PCV Plate

[b0balagurak]

I was thinking of getting this kit and was wondering if anybody is running a setup like this. I would like to use the Radium 10AN PCV valve they include and want to know if it would work. Any issues with running this setup, and do I need to tell the tuner that I am running this? I do know about Damond plate but this fits the aesthetic and their 10AN PCV eliminates boost leak into crankcase compared to OEM valve.

 

[jdab555]

You could go Radium, but you can also just go with tried-and-true Damond, who puts a lot of effort into the platform, and has some really amazing guides on their website for routing. Damond is also easily reachable by phone, directly to Matt Damond himself most times for any questions you may have.

Also it never hurts to tell your tuner additional details about your setup.

 

[b0balagurak]

You could go Radium, but you can also just go with tried-and-true Damond, who puts a lot of effort into the platform, and has some really amazing guides on their website for routing. Damond is also easily reachable by phone, directly to Matt Damond himself most times for any questions you may have.

Also it never hurts to tell your tuner additional details about your setup.

I guess so, I was just looking for a better/robust setup since the OEM valve leaks at all boost levels and I wanted to decrease or get rid of excess crankcase pressure. Might be the way I go since I'll also be getting their EGR delete kit as well. Thanks

 

[jdab555]

I guess so, I was just looking for a better/robust setup since the OEM valve leaks at all boost levels and I wanted to decrease or get rid of excess crankcase pressure. Might be the way I go since I'll also be getting their EGR delete kit as well. Thanks

You can run to a vented catch can, remember the PCV valve exists precisely to vent that crankcase pressure during operation, so when it cracks at a certain pressure, that is by design. It isn't a leak per se, it's an engineered air escape that normally runs to the Intake Manifold, which you can mitigate via a catch can or two, preferably with a vent on top.

 

[b0balagurak]

You can run to a vented catch can, remember the PCV valve exists precisely to vent that crankcase pressure during operation, so when it cracks at a certain pressure, that is by design. It isn't a leak per se, it's an engineered air escape that normally runs to the Intake Manifold, which you can mitigate via a catch can or two, preferably with a vent on top.

I am trying to avoid a catch can for this build since I'm now way over budget but I read that the oem valve leaks boost into thr crankcase which is not good so I wanted to sort that out. The radium pcv doesnt allow flow in, only out. Someone did run this kit no problems but nothing was stated how it was set up so I was just trying to clarify. Thanks though!

 

[jdab555]

I am trying to avoid a catch can for this build since I'm now way over budget but I read that the oem valve leaks boost into thr crankcase which is not good so I wanted to sort that out. The radium pcv doesnt allow flow in, only out. Someone did run this kit no problems but nothing was stated how it was set up so I was just trying to clarify. Thanks though!

So the PCV valve is one-way only. Read this (Crankcase, Under Pressure – Damond Motorsports) and this (Bye-Bye Blow-By – Damond Motorsports) to better understand operation.

Your most cost-effective setup right now if you are under budget is to keep your stock PCV plate, get a new PCV valve, and run it from PCV valve -> vented catch can -> Intake Manifold. No need for a new plate.

 

[b0balagurak]

So the PCV valve is one-way only. Read this (Crankcase, Under Pressure – Damond Motorsports) and this (Bye-Bye Blow-By – Damond Motorsports) to better understand operation.

Your most cost-effective setup right now if you are under budget is to keep your stock PCV plate, get a new PCV valve, and run it from PCV valve -> vented catch can -> Intake Manifold. No need for a new plate.

Ah vta, ok. I was trying to do this purely for aesthetics since access will be impossible without disassembly in the future. Thanks

 

[Raider]

I have and trust the Damond plate. Highly recommend.

 

[Awafrican]

I was thinking of getting this kit and was wondering if anybody is running a setup like this. I would like to use the Radium 10AN PCV valve they include and want to know if it would work. Any issues with running this setup, and do I need to tell the tuner that I am running this? I do know about Damond plate but this fits the aesthetic and their 10AN PCV eliminates boost leak into crankcase compared to OEM valve.

First time I've seen this kit...

Running this plate and not adding a catch can seems like a 50% solution. Their check valve is probably "k" however running a damond plate (which this looks like a cheap knock off of) and a occ even sealed with a check valve will also eliminate this issue. Heck the occ alone with check valve will eliminate your concern rather.

 

[Luckie17]

Actually you have to read the fine print, the Radium kit ending in 01(20-0327-01 Ecoboost PCV Baffle Plate, With Fittings)is ONLY FOR Ecoboost
NOT Mazdaspeed's.
The "kit" you would have to get is the one ending in 02, and its just the plate. (20-0327-02 PCV Baffle Plate Only, No Fittings)
Retailers are misleading AF about this product, but Radium is 100% up front about it on their site.
http://www.radiumauto.com/PCV-Baffle-Plate-Ford-EcoBoost-Duratec-Mazda-MZR-P1162.aspx

 

[Cfoldone]

I decided that the radium plate was my choice. Yes I like the look, and the additional air/oil flow plate/dam. The integrated screw in PVC valve on the eco boost plate kit is a nice option. If you decide only the plate kit the ecoboost one will hook up just like OEM.
Diamond kit has better options on the various fittings, hose barb sizing, three ports for more OCC venting/routing/types of oil tanks.
Now in my applications I use that and the JBR OCC kit and the JBR optional back-flow Boost valve on Intake manifold side after the OCC.
I know its redundant but I prefer the crack pressure on the Radium PVC valve, and the robustness of the JBR boost backflow valve.
Now while I understand your desire to install and forget it once Intake manifold in place, I will tell you now....Modifications or repairs will require the manifold to come off. Sometimes, like in my case...........many times and its really not that hard to do, since especially you currently know how too.

 

[Luckie17]

I decided that the radium plate was my choice. Yes I like the look, and the additional air/oil flow plate/dam. The integrated screw in PVC valve on the eco boost plate kit is a nice option. If you decide only the plate kit the ecoboost one will hook up just like OEM.
Diamond kit has better options on the various fittings, hose barb sizing, three ports for more OCC venting/routing/types of oil tanks.
Now in my applications I use that and the JBR OCC kit and the JBR optional back-flow Boost valve on Intake manifold side after the OCC.
I know its redundant but I prefer the crack pressure on the Radium PVC valve, and the robustness of the JBR boost backflow valve.
Now while I understand your desire to install and forget it once Intake manifold in place, I will tell you now....Modifications or repairs will require the manifold to come off. Sometimes, like in my case...........many times and its really not that hard to do, since especially you currently know how too.

WOW ! That looks really good! I stand fully corrected in my previous statement.

 

[Enki]

I have this plate with -10 ORB fittings, 90 deg -10 barbs and a genpu valve cover all vented to air. Works well but I'm dumping oil on the ground I got so much blowby.

Edit: I should probably note that it's possible to install this plate with the manifold on the car and from underneath. I've even changed the fittings out. It's not fun, but it's possible.

 

[Sleepin6]

I run this plate also and have had no problems.