Rang-a-stang's GenWon

rang-a-stang said:
@Duey1083 I bought what Justin recommended. The closest thing I did to research on plugs was finding the best price. They are NGK 6510's
@Db09ms3 haha! WilCo!
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Sitting/working at my kitchen table yesterday when the dog freaked out=Package at the door. Of course work is done for the day at that point. Like anyone could focus on work when a Turbo is sitting there!
I pulled it out to take a look and compare. It is noticeably larger! I expected it to be slightly larger but not this much. I am in love! I kind of feel bad for stuffing down and hiding in my engine bay. Also, check out all the Laser Cut BNR logos.
GGeW

Ssl8

Started swapping parts and getting things put back together. There is TONS if info out there about how to do this so I am not going to give a blow by blow but here are the only "issues" I have had so far:
The threaded stud on the bottom of the turbo does not come with the BNR and you need to transfer it over. Mine was BARELY long enough to get 2 nuts on it and jamb together, to get it off. I ended up with a damaged thread and had to run a die over it to clean it up.
Mgba

The heat shield that goes around the bottom interfered, ever so slightly, with the lock bolts and plates.
1ITw

Nothing a set of tin snips and pliers couldn't fix.
1NwC

After that, it all pretty much bolted together like I would expect. All the heat shields and bracketry fit like factory. It comes with new stainless studs for the exhaust manifold and down pipe; I was not going to use the stock nuts on those stainless studs so I went to my local hardware store and picked up some new stainless nuts. Those {badword} nuts were $2.69 EACH!!! I spent almost $30 on 9 nuts!!

One of my pet peeves is un-torqued hardware. I spent a good hour trying to figure out how to get a torque wrench on the down pipe nuts. Different combinations of deep and shallow sockets, different lengths and different types of extensions, and even 2 different types of torque wrenches and the only nut I could torque was middle top one. It's not that I could not get the wrench and socket on there'. It's that there is not enough room to deflect the torque wrench to get a good reading. The other 4 got the good ol' fashioned, "That seems about 50 foot pounds" treatment.

Last "Issue": The new coupler for my inlet interferes with a coolant pipe. I didn't spend much time on this and will figure it out later. I am not too worried about it.
PuT9H

So here's how it looked when I went to bed last night. I probably put about 4 hours of work in, taking my sweet time. I also killed a good 20 minutes looking for one of the #$^%^ expensive nuts when I dropped it. Car is off jack stands. Honestly, this really is "bolt on"; super easy to install. I expected at least some holes to not line up or heat shields that would need to be adjusted but just the one at the top. You'll notice all my "issues" I described above are completely minor annoyances more than anything. I am pretty psyched to get it started! Once my boost controller gets here, I will finish it up. Still back ordered....
4sI6
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Looks good. http://www.hitunedperformance.com/5-8-hose-extension-kit/ This is what people use to make the coolant line longer so it tucks under nicer. You can also just get a brass one from a local hardware store.
 
@JohnnyTightlips and @Awafrican You guys nailed it. Went to the local hardware store, spent just under $6 on a "Garden hose repair kit" which was a double sided 5/8" hose barb and 2 stainless worm drive clamps and a foot of 5/8" heater hose. I was not confident the factory spring clamp would seal on the brass barbed fitting so I replaced it with a stainless worm drive clamp from my stash. I had to push the cooling line (green line in pic) under the shifter cables (yellow lines in pic) to make it fit correctly. After I took this picture I split some of the left over hose and placed it over the stock hose as a chafing barrier.
X4PZ

Boost controller (Switched to Cobb from Grimmspeed so I could get it sooner) is supposed to show up tomorrow. I also contacted Cobb and they are sending me a new AP cable (mine locking tabs fell off a long time ago and it does not have a good connection). Cobb customer service is AMAZING. Second time I have contacted them with a question and I am, again, amazed with them. Love those guys!!! I hope to test drive it tomorrow night!
 
Awesome work man! I bet you've been itching to get her bolted back together. Kudos to you on your patience for waiting for the Grimspeed.

I think I've order two things from cPE and both times they were backordered, so I decided to cancel the orders instead of wait. I'm kind of glad I did as I'd rather do downpipe when I'm in there doing the turbo.

I think cPE must make things per order.
 
@Awafrican I wouldn't say it "hits" it but there is a light contact. If I would have put about another 1/4" on the hose there would be space between them. When I was first measuring, if I added enough heater hose to just clear the turbo inlet, the heater hose contacted the shifter cable pretty hard (over the top) but when I added another 1/2" and moved the hose under, it cleared the both pretty comfortably.
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EBCS showed up on Monday. I threw some electrical conduit on it to make it hide a little more from the smog police (makes it look a little but more stock'ish). I know it shouldn't affect my smog checks but the more non-factory stuff they see, the more they dig...
oTg4

Threw the battery box and turbo inlet on to find a place to put it. I saw this old harness clip that used to clip to the stock turbo inlet and it gave me an idea:
uZ7G

I have a few of these harness ties a buddy gave me for a previous project and the EBCS is so small:
5yPH

So I snipped that grey one off, put this one on, and voila! Notice I spun it backwards so you could not see "Cobb" sticker for now.
SG-ua

The upper zip tie will come off when I smog it. It's more secure than it looks! HAHAHAHA!!! Kinda ghetto, but you know, if it's stupid but it works, it isn't stupid.
Buttoned it all back together, threw the battery in, and cranked it over. Honestly, I never thought I would get so excited to hear my key in the ignition chime as I did when I opened the door. Turned the key, gave it about a minute of key on engine off. Turned the key an she fired to life like normal... but the chargeing light was on...cuz I forgot to put the belt on.
Spent the next 30 minutes getting the belt back on. Fired it up again and let it come to operating temp so I could check for leaks. None. It did smoke at first but I think that was the old oil still in the down pipe and cat from the turd that came out.
Check out the gook it spewed out the tailpipe when it was coming up to operating temp:
Y5Tu

First drives: were kind of lame. I only made about 12.5 pounds of boost. I was making 12 pounds at 2800RPM but it just flat lined all the way to 6500RPM. My wastegate duty cycle was 0 the whole time. Hm. I followed Justin's (Freektune's) advice, drove it for 30 miles and then took the logs he needed. I am REALLY hoping the tune is limiting my boost and not some other knuckle head move I made or my BPV.
Here is what I have to do to keep my APV3 cable in the socket. Count 3 zip ties. I have a new one from Cobb in route.
NCnZ


It drives basically the same as before but with a lot less top end and a bit more mid throttle grunt. The turbo itself is quieter (which I like) so far but only making 12PSI, I assume that will change. It does not have as much sucking sound at mid throttle (which again, I am good with it). I did not hear my BPV at all. The tone of the turbo sucking is deeper, too.

Brought it home and again, looked for leaks. None! Woooo hooo!
L-Ey

Tonight I fly out of town for 8 days. Hopefully when I get home there will be a new MAP waiting in my email. Maybe some of you will point out what I did wrong to only make 12 pounds? I swept/mopped the garage floor and put it away for a week.
 
@rang-a-stang, there are lots of knowledgeable folk on here. I'd suggest that you upload the datalogs you sent into Freek for everyone to review.

Maybe he gave you a very conservative initial map to get you up and running and will start dialing it in for you now. You're probably just running on spring pressure on your waste gate.

Check your plumbing job on the EBCS as well. Other than that, you probably just need to be tuned!
 
SharksInSpace said:
Basemap is always 0wgdc spring pressure baby boost until the basics have been sorted out. I've no idea what spring is supposed to be for an S3, though.
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OP, this. base map spring pressure only edge's site lists it as 14psi for the BNR s3. You'll get more boost with more revisions not to worry.

Glad she's up and running safe travels
 
So I am now on MAP version 5. My car feels amazing so far! MAP 1 sucked (12 psi, spring only). MAP 2 made my car feel like a new stock MS3 (I think it was about 16 PSI). MAP 3 was the first time it felt like an "Upgrade" (made about 20psi). MAP 4 was AWESOME!! I just got MAP 5 and will flash it in after work today and go for a spin. Driving around town it feels just like it ever has. But at about 2800RPM, boost comes on like a freight train. I am at about 22psi and WGDC is about 80%. For the about $1600 I spent on this job, I am satisfied. If power keeps climbing as my MAPs keep coming, I get happier and happier. This turbo is MUCH quieter. I am not a flashy person so I appreciate it but if you like your turbo announcing itself, you will be disappointed with this one. When I am cruising I hear way more engine hum than turbo woosh.

On a related note, I think I am starting to get a TINY bit of a misfire. I feel it when I am cruising on the freeway, cruise set. It will feel like it had one miss, I will look at my AP and see AFR climbing up from about 13.2 back toward 14.7. Then it it will stay steady at 14.7. I watch ST Fuel trim bounce a little then steady out. There are no check engine lights. I have tried putting it in 6th gear at about 1500 RPM and going WOT until about 3500 RPM and it does not do it then and it does not trigger a CEL.

IF I have a dying coil, what is the going trend for coils? Just buy Mazda coils or are there upgraded coils?
 
Duuuude don't WOT under 3k especially in 5 or 6 that's a good way to break some rods although a pro tune should have no boost coming in so will help save.

Glad you're enjoying the tune and turbo, as for coil pack only go with OEM.
 
rang-a-stang said:
I have tried putting it in 6th gear at about 1500 RPM and going WOT until about 3500 RPM and it does not do it then and it does not trigger a CEL.
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yikes on bikes fam, don't be going WOT below about 3k and definitely not in sixth.

Have you checked your plugs? They might need to be gapped down slightly tighter; a stutter/hesitation has often been found to be spark blowout on these cars.
 
Yikes. WOT in 6th at that low an rpm. You're lucky you didnt experience LSPI and send a rod or two through your block.
 
Hahahah! Yeah, you guys right! Luckily whatever was not working well before has gone away. Maybe I had some bad gas or something?

My dude is running FANTASTIC these days. I am running pretty steady at about 22PSI of boost, ~84% WGDC, injector duty cycle is about 83% at WOT, and it feels AWESOME. I see the limitation in my stock TMIC as boost temps creep up toward the higher end of my pulls. Justin says I am pretty much at the end of where I can go with 91 octane. I get pretty gnarly torque steer when boost hits in 3rd gear.

My rear pads finally wore out after 135k miles, too! LOL!!! I have been running Hawk HPS in the front since the first pad change back in the day but figured I would change things up a bit this time so I bought some Yellow Stuff. That was painful; $200 in pads. If I get another 135K out of the rear pads, it will not be as expensive in the long run, I guess. The yellow finish on them is kind of annoying but I guess they match my Bilstein's a little. I also replaced my front rotors with Centric's PN 32045078H. It has been a pretty dramatic improvement in initial bite compared to the Hawk HPS's but I think that is still the bedding compound EBC puts on their pads because I only have about 200 miles on everything. These pictures remind be that it's time to re-paint my calipers.

bWy9

DOjM
 
Ooooh helllz yeah! Found a Corksport TMIC on Craigslist today!

Dude selling it had a super clean MS6 that he got for $1200 because it had “engine problems“. I’m telling you the inside was SUUUUUUPER clean! Body is straight witha little clear coat peeling on the roof is all. So jealous! He had the engine at a machine shop getting all forged internals. Lucky dog!

anywho, pics tomorrow with my new to me TMIC. Got a good deal (not a steal) but I’m happy with that cuz I know that money is going back into him getting his MS6 back on the road. Stoked to have this intercooler though! I have been watching Cl for a good 6 years and have only seen one other TMIC ever show up. Woo hooo!
 
wow! $$$$ well spent! I am assuming the change was more dramatic because I was choking my new turbo through the stock Intercooler but buttdyno says worth the $300 I paid.
You've all seen stock intercoolers so no pic of before. I was really shocked at how much bigger the Corksport intercooler really was. You can't really tell here but you can see how munched my stocker was from me putting dry ice on there:

IOPJ

Check out the difference here! Again, I am sure most of you have already seen this but I was shocked!
COXd

Took it to work with me and took a "break" during one of my telcons and put it on. No joke; maybe 15 mins of work? It took longer for me to find the instructions on the interwebz than it did to actually install it. BTW, you don't need instructions.
33FP

Then threw my stock shroud on to make it look, well, stock.
zumy

Like I said above, there is no denying the power is way up. I took a log and compared it to the last log I sent to Justin. I was surprised it did not really make a difference in boost temp. If anything, Boost temp went up a tiny bit compared to the stocker. I figured I would see an impact there, the most. WGDC is down about 10% to make the same boost, though! Wow! I did notice some knock retard above 5300 RPM and that kind of scares me a little. I don't want to pay for another tune now because I know I am going to get a down pipe after smog (probably Feb'ish) and will definitely need one then.
Hmmmm....
 
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