Replacement Rear Sway Bar End Links

Zoom66

Zoom66

Greenie N00B Member
Been running the stock rear end links on my car with both the 125 and now with the 250 JBR bar. Finally one of them gave up. I tried to source a set of the JBR "Moog" replacements through RPM and JBR no longer provides these. A year ago tried the Whiteline Adjustable rear end links and no matter how hard I torqued them they clunked the whole time.

What else is available out there besides the OEM?s Thanks.
 
Like the Moogs more than Whitelines? I went from Moogs to Whitelines, and I'm just starting to notice a little clunk. I'm hoping tightening up on LCA/applying blue loctite will nip it in the bud.
 
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I never installed the rear moods but never had a issue with the fronts I ran. They are a lot beefier than the oem ones
 
Redline said:
Like the Moogs more than Whitelines? I went from Moogs to Whitelines, and I'm just starting to notice a little clunk. I'm hoping tightening up on LCA/applying blue loctite will nip it in the bud.
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I had Whitelines and they always gave me clunking noises even with Loctite. I bought and installed the Moogs and they are beast. The only issue is you have to hold the nut in place under the LCA to get the top nut tight as they don't have a hex key in the bolt to hold in place. I was able to get an 18mm crow foot in there to get it done.
 
Zoom66 said:
I had Whitelines and they always gave me clunking noises even with Loctite. I bought and installed the Moogs and they are beast. The only issue is you have to hold the nut in place under the LCA to get the top nut tight as they don't have a hex key in the bolt to hold in place. I was able to get an 18mm crow foot in there to get it done.
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Hmmmmm..... So no clunking since Moog install? How many miles on them now?? Do you happen to go over uneven speed bumps a lot? (I'm in areas where I'm constantly going over the speed bump with only one side of the car, so I know my rear endlinks frequently see a lot of stress because of this).
 
Because of the construction of whiteline the always make a little noise, at least that's what I've seen reported across various forms. I'd just buy the moogs off Amazon if I were you. I know when my stockers go I'll be going moog. Also be careful the moog one revision the greese nipple likes to rub, but you can easily just put a shorter one on if that's the case. Also I just checked jbrs site they carry the end links.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=761
 
Awafrican said:
Because of the construction of whiteline the always make a little noise, at least that's what I've seen reported across various forms. I'd just buy the moogs off Amazon if I were you. I know when my stockers go I'll be going moog. Also be careful the moog one revision the greese nipple likes to rub, but you can easily just put a shorter one on if that's the case. Also I just checked jbrs site they carry the end links.

http://www.jamesbaroneracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=761
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I already have brand-new Moogs. I got warranty replacements because one of the old Moogs mounted on my car failed. It was at that point that I went Whiteline. Moogs are still in the closet.
 
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It is mentioned on numerous places to use a crows foot wrench whenever you put the moogs in, does anyone know what size to buy to help with the install of these?
 
Redline said:
+zoom66 mentions above that it's 18mm.... is that correct?
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Thanks! I must have over looked it. Planning on changing mine out soon. I had taken the stock sway bar out with the endlinks still attached and the bolt was rounded off so I couldn't get it off, tried putting stock sway bar with the stock endlinks back in and low I get a clunking noise going over speed bumps and stuff so figured it's that time
 
I was able to jam a regular crescent in there but I do have a bit of clunking from the rear. I have to grease them now ish any way so i think im just gonna go all out and put lock washers/nuts and red loctite one em while im under there and use a crows foot to really tighten down. I dont remember exactly but i think torque spec is like 35 ft/lbs, but i think im just gonna tighten as much as i can without breaking the stud.
 
mspeedzilla said:
I was able to jam a regular crescent in there but I do have a bit of clunking from the rear. I have to grease them now ish any way so i think im just gonna go all out and put lock washers/nuts and red loctite one em while im under there and use a crows foot to really tighten down. I dont remember exactly but i think torque spec is like 35 ft/lbs, but i think im just gonna tighten as much as i can without breaking the stud.
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In before broken stud.

How do you plan on judging when it's going to break? That's partially what the torque spec is for
 
I like to just sort of feel things out. You know go with my gut. Mostly i plan to take it up to 35 with the 1/2in torque wrench and then swap out for a 3/8 wrench and let my muscles decide whats tight enough. Usually that works out. In the past I've only broken about 1/3 of the bolts on which I have employed this method, thats a good success rate in my book
 
Nah we cool. Joking about the broken bolts by the way, but dead serious about the method. torque wrench plus a little tighter on moog endlinks wouldn't hurt.. You would have to be a god damn silverback to break those studs with a 3/8 wrench while in the proper position to actually wrench the bolt.
 
Locally I'm known as the bolt breaker...I've even done it with a torque wrench (it definitely needed re calibration). So it's all very do able
 
I don't know about their rears because I'm still on OEM out back, but I cranked my front Moog endlinks as goddamn tight as I could manage with a 3/8" socket and open end wrench. I'm not the strongest guy around, but they seem sturdy enough to not worry too much about it...space is probably too tight to really get THAT much Hulk-level leverage.
 
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