Separate transmission from block?

[jsilva]

I was trying today to separate the block from the transmission but was having issues.

All of the bolts are removed and I was able to get it about 1/2”-3/4” separated all around. However, it wouldn’t go anymore than that.

I should say that I’m actually trying to pull the block away from the transmission (the engine was completely disassembled and is just the block and is disconnected from everything and has about 4” of space on the opposite side). The transmission is still connected to the mounts, transfer case, etc. The reason why is that I am needing to get to the crankshaft ASAP. I’ll worry about the transmission later.

Is there something else that needs to be done to get the transmission separated? Or do I just need to keep trying and get the right angle?

 

[Awafrican]

Yeah disconnect the transmission Mount it's holding it in place if everything is unbolted and your slave cylinder is disconnected

 

[jsilva]

Yeah disconnect the transmission Mount it's holding it in place if everything is unbolted and your slave cylinder is disconnected

At this point I’m not wanting to remove the transmission. Just the block.

 

[Mauro_Penguin]

You need to clear the input shaft out of the crank and clutch.

Eventhough it is not your goal, you may need to remove the trans.

 

[jsilva]

You need to clear the input shaft out of the crank and clutch.

Eventhough it is not your goal, you may need to remove the trans.

That was my assumption and it’s good to get confirmation. The block just won’t budge past 1/2-3/4” away from the transmission.

I will eventually take the transmission out. I have another one I plan on putting in. Timing with all of the work just means I need to get the crankshaft first.

I had forgotten I have a Harbor Freight transmission jack which would work really well for the block since it has wheel and can move, and it also easily goes up and down. I’ll give that a try once the snow clears up...

 

[Tomas]

You need to clear the input shaft out of the crank and clutch.

Eventhough it is not your goal, you may need to remove the trans.

^ This.

The input shaft needs to go out of the pilot bearing and then pass the flywheel and clutch plates. That's about 3-4 inches of travel.

 

[jsilva]

Ok, I levelled the engine better using my transmission jack and the engine was really loose and was pivoting but it just wouldn’t come out.

I eventually figured out that the lip of the block was bumping on the transfer case, and I can’t see a way to get the engine in any position to clear it. So it looks like I have to remove the transmission.

Are there any guides for that (besides the service manual). I’m sure I can figure it out but it’s nice to see before diving in.

 

[jsilva]

With great difficulty I was finally able to get the block in a position to remove.

I had to loosen the bolts from the transfer case to the transmission, remove the bolts from the transfer case to the bracket going to the block (I had to disconnect the downpipe to be able to get to the one bolt...), disconnect the transmission from the mounts, and finally I had to remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. And then there was room to be able to get the block up out of the engine bay.

Pretty ridiculous...!

I’ll take out the transmission and transfer case on a later day.

Just sitting on a transmission jack until I can get an engine hoist to get it out.

 

[L337TurboZ]

When I replaced the engine in mine I removed the front bumper, crash bar, and radiator core support. With all that stuff out of the way you can just pull the engine and transmission straight forward out of the car and have room to hook up a lot of stuff.

I separated the transmission from the engine outside the engine bay. I know you have the engine out now, but to make things easier on you could remove the front bumper stuff like I did so you have a better view and room to shift the engine back onto the trans.