Colder plugs are going to foul unless you are beating on it. Probably could use stock heat range for break in
Sid's sleepy 6
- Thread starter sid
- Start date
Right make sense. Will the carbon burn off the plugs when i start hitting higher boost or am I better off swapping out the plugs later on? Because the way I see it, the higher boost will heat up the plugs again and burn off all that carbon. If thats not the case, i might have to get stock plugs until i hit higher boost, then get a new set of colder plugs.
It should clean up once you start beating on it
I was trying to figure out why my LTFT sits at -10 on idle. I thought maybe it has to do with the CAI hitting the top of the hood. Opened up the hood and the STFT shot up to bring the total fuel trims closer to 0! Ill have to figure out what exactly is pinching but I have a feeling the hood is pushing down the CAI and is pinching the inlet hose between the TIP and the turbo ... That 3.5 inch intake is a real PITA to get to fit right in the engine bay. Every time I try to push it down, the hose connecting the BPV looks like its going to fall off ... I might have to buy the JBR hose given how old and hard the current hose is.
Its either that, or by opening the hood im letting colder air in bringing the fuel trims up (given its like -6 Celsius right now). In that case I have no idea whats causing this low fuel trims at idle ...
Its either that, or by opening the hood im letting colder air in bringing the fuel trims up (given its like -6 Celsius right now). In that case I have no idea whats causing this low fuel trims at idle ...
Thanks, hopefully those plugs are going to clear up soon!
So as some of you may know, one of the hard lines on my power steering rack decided to blow this month. The line in question:
Yeah, its corroded alright. I tried getting a line done by somebody with no luck. So i bought a used rack on ebay for 200$ down south. I regret that decision.
When i tried removing the line in question from the ebay rack, the bolt on the flared end was seized to the line. No heat/sea foam could get it off. I ended up snapping the line at the end when trying to remove the flared end
. Great, so on to plan B. At this point I had nothing to lose and decided to make my own. Given that I have half a line in good shape from the ebay rack, I decided to grab some 1/4" copper nickel break line and some unions on amazon. I double flared both ends of the line and one end of the ebay line. One thing to note is the flare bolt that goes on the rack is not standard (i think) so i kept it and put it on the new line. The finished product?
The rack did come in handy when bending the line but im sure i could of managed without it. Installing it on the car was a pain too. You can reach both ends of the line from the hood of the car. In the case of the flared end, I had to remove the battery and loosen the power steering line that goes to the pump so I can properly line up the new line. For the banjo end, I needed to remove the plate on the rack covering the bolt hole but after that, no problem.
Now could I have done better? Probably. If i was not so fixed on getting the exact same line, I could of made my own with a banjo adapter, an other adapter to convert the AN side to an inverted flare and then the line. Lesson learned. Next time ill start with the cheaper solution
Yeah, its corroded alright. I tried getting a line done by somebody with no luck. So i bought a used rack on ebay for 200$ down south. I regret that decision.
When i tried removing the line in question from the ebay rack, the bolt on the flared end was seized to the line. No heat/sea foam could get it off. I ended up snapping the line at the end when trying to remove the flared end
. Great, so on to plan B. At this point I had nothing to lose and decided to make my own. Given that I have half a line in good shape from the ebay rack, I decided to grab some 1/4" copper nickel break line and some unions on amazon. I double flared both ends of the line and one end of the ebay line. One thing to note is the flare bolt that goes on the rack is not standard (i think) so i kept it and put it on the new line. The finished product?The rack did come in handy when bending the line but im sure i could of managed without it. Installing it on the car was a pain too. You can reach both ends of the line from the hood of the car. In the case of the flared end, I had to remove the battery and loosen the power steering line that goes to the pump so I can properly line up the new line. For the banjo end, I needed to remove the plate on the rack covering the bolt hole but after that, no problem.
Now could I have done better? Probably. If i was not so fixed on getting the exact same line, I could of made my own with a banjo adapter, an other adapter to convert the AN side to an inverted flare and then the line. Lesson learned. Next time ill start with the cheaper solution
Sid, Just found your thread on google, and joined the forum. I had a few questions, and I also had to make a PS line, albeit a return line, But when you replaced the power steering lines did you notice if the pump itself runs hot/ hotter than before??
I just rebuilt my PS oil return line and bypassed the PS oil cooler. now questioned it ,...being after running the engine for a few minutes , and checking the fluid levels. I felt the line and it seemed way too hot after only running for like 4-5 mins.
there's been a few times ive been in a pinch and it'll run low enough to start screaming.
My return line started leaking about 18 months ago and it got really bad / rusted out about 12 months ago. Since then I had parked the car and didn't drive it since I was non stop filling it with PS oil and hemorrhaging $(oil) everytime its running and parked.....
I never found a replacement return line, so I finally made one and not sure if the pump itself may be toast.
What do you think??
I just rebuilt my PS oil return line and bypassed the PS oil cooler. now questioned it ,...being after running the engine for a few minutes , and checking the fluid levels. I felt the line and it seemed way too hot after only running for like 4-5 mins.
there's been a few times ive been in a pinch and it'll run low enough to start screaming.
My return line started leaking about 18 months ago and it got really bad / rusted out about 12 months ago. Since then I had parked the car and didn't drive it since I was non stop filling it with PS oil and hemorrhaging $(oil) everytime its running and parked.....
I never found a replacement return line, so I finally made one and not sure if the pump itself may be toast.
What do you think??
Of course it runs hotter if you bypassed the cooler...i would not bypass it at all and running hot could certainly lead to pump failure.
1st. I didnt drive it at all. Like engine is cold, and pump and oil got that hot in under 5 minutes?
2nd. the stock PS oil cooler literally does nothing if theres no air flowing across it.
I think we can all agree the stock PS oil cooler did nothing anyways...... with or without air flowing across it.......
Last edited by a moderator:
The PS cooler does help radiate heat from the system even without air moving across it. They are there for a reason. If your pump and oil and getting that hot you could have a restriction somewhere like in the pump or in the steering gear.
Last edited:
It will radiate heat even without airflow "this is how fanless heatsinks work" If your stock one sucks you can upgrade to the damond one which I have ran for 4 years without any issues. https://damondmotorsports.com/products/mazdaspeed3-07-09
Last edited:
true & I agree, but those are generally aluminum , a great conductor of heat.
also just for reference I was looking at other 06 mazda 6 non-SPEED 2300cc , they have the same power steering pump , but no oil cooler, its just a return line. if they have the same pump, appears to be the same steering rack. then what's different?
I figured the cooler was there for autocross purposes if you did that.
thx
The cooler is there cause the turbo engine runs pretty hot inside the bay. There is a lot more radiant heat that can cause fluid to boil.
Also bigger stickier tires that the pump has to move