Solarsurge's Ongoing 2013 LSM Build

[Solarsurge]

Got the gauge wiring through the firewall, got the A pillar triple gauge pod installed, got everything wired up. Everything electrical and mechanical is now done. All I’m waiting for now is my tune. She fires as soon as I get it. I’m excited!

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[John]

Interesting info on the CP-e TMM. Good to know.

What I said was woefully incomplete so if you're truly interested PM me for discussion. If you don't actually care about the details and just taking it at face value, well I wouldn't do that because opinions are like assholes, but hey it's your deal. Heh.

 

[Solarsurge]

What I said was woefully incomplete so if you're truly interested PM me for discussion. If you don't actually care about the details and just taking it at face value, well I wouldn't do that because opinions are like assholes, but hey it's your deal. Heh.

With thread locker and the backing plate it should be fine. My only concern is the removal of a trans stud and putting in a bolt. That stud was fucking ridiculously hard to get out and the bolt didn’t like to go in without force. I’m more concerned with that bolt ripping out of the aluminum tranny case than I am about the hex screws coming loose.


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[John]

With thread locker and the backing plate it should be fine. My only concern is the removal of a trans stud and putting in a bolt. That stud was fucking ridiculously hard to get out and the bolt didn’t like to go in without force. I’m more concerned with that bolt ripping out of the aluminum tranny case than I am about the hex screws coming loose.

Right, wasn't speaking to you anyway, presumably you are satisfied or you wouldn't install it, which works for me.

I am curious though, did they change the design or are they still shipping the one with the extra plate that is supposed to ensure that all the cap screws holding the mount together don't back out or otherwise sustain a cascading failure?

 

[Solarsurge]

Right, wasn't speaking to you anyway, presumably you are satisfied or you wouldn't install it, which works for me.

I am curious though, did they change the design or are they still shipping the one with the extra plate that is supposed to ensure that all the cap screws holding the mount together don't back out or otherwise sustain a cascading failure?

Still comes with the backing plate.


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[Solarsurge]

Since I’m still waiting on my tune, I took the extra time to fully check over and adjust my suspension and fix some issues I had with the way my camber arms were set up. Also changed brake fluid, bled the clutch line, made sure all the connections are connected, filled it up with coolant and checked for leaks. No leaks. Made some modifications to the undertray for quick access to drain the catch cans. The entire car is bolted back together and ready to fire up. Turned the key to make sure the electrical was OK, the fuel pump primed, and the gauges work. Everything looks good so far. Now if only I could get my tune...

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[Solarsurge]

Got my tune! Primed fuel pump, fuel OK. Primed oil pump, oil pressure OK. Go to crank it, starter spins like a champ, crank turns with no problem, fuel and compression OK. No spark. Checked all the grounds and basic fuses, swapped ignition harness just to reset the ground, still no spark. Looks like troubleshooting electrical tomorrow. Oddly enough, I did have a blown fuse... fog lights. But the battery was also SUPER low, so before we start pulling big fuses we’re gonna go ahead and charge it overnight. Annoying night, but we’ll figure it out. She sounds great, though, as she TRIES to start. She wants to eat!

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[Solarsurge]

Uploaded a video just for reference in case anyone has any suggestions.




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[Sho]

Rpm not moving when cranking. Did you plug the crank position sensor in ?

 

[Solarsurge]

Rpm not moving when cranking. Did you plug the crank position sensor in ?

It moves. It’s sitting around 200RPM. The needle is just hard to see in the video. You can see it drop when I turn the key off.


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[Solarsurge]

Initial diagnosis was wrong. It’s getting spark. It seems there is an issue somewhere in the fuel system. In tank pump primes and fuel pressure is normal with key on. Cranking it with gas pedal to the floor fuel pressure rises to around 700~800 PSI and holds, even after turning off the key. But as soon as I let off the gas pedal and crank with only clutch pedal down the fuel pressure falls and stays around only 200~250 PSI. It also fired and tried to start with the gas pedal to the floor, when it’s obviously not supposed to.


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[Finch204]

What I said was woefully incomplete so if you're truly interested PM me for discussion. If you don't actually care about the details and just taking it at face value, well I wouldn't do that because opinions are like assholes, but hey it's your deal. Heh.

Since I currently have a CP-e RMM, I have considered getting all CP-e mounts. I've since decided that if I were to upgrade the TMM, it would either be CS inserts or DM TMM, but it was interesting to know that there is someone who hates their TMM haha.

 

[Solarsurge]

I’ve hit the point of frustration, so at this point I call on anyone who might read this and has any foggy idea wtf is going on to chime in.

We tested compression and all cylinders are right around 130, which is normal for my compression gauge. Air is confirmed to not be the issue.

There’s gas on all 4 spark plugs and fuel pressure is OK. Also plenty of gas fumes coming from the tailpipes. Fuel does not seem to be the issue.

Checked for spark by grounding the plugs in 4 different places in the engine bay - directly to the negative terminal, directly to the head, to the coil pack harness ground, and to the PMM ground strap. Spark confirmed everywhere. Spark does not seem to be the issue.

Registering 200~220 RPM, so the crank sensor is functioning normally.

Swapped almost every single sensor and wire in the engine bay. Checked all relays, and the only one that was bad was the DRL/ARS relay, which has a short. Checked all fuses, only blown fuse was the fog light fuse (most likely as a result of the bad DRL/ARS relay).

Checked every ground in the engine bay with a volt meter. All sitting at 12.7-12.8v, all 11.0-11.2v while cranking.

Disconnected new gauges to rule out extra drain from added shit. Turned off all accessories. Made sure doors closed and everything is off.

Still just cranks and won’t start.

If we disconnect the battery for a while and then reconnect it, the first crank WANTS to start and it definitely gives a *thud* like ignition is happening. Usually once, but sometimes back to back twice. But that ONLY happens when we disconnect the battery for a while. If we leave the battery alone and connected, noo matter how long we let it sit, it will just crank and crank with no start.

No codes, either.

Anyone out there have any ideas?

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[aaronc7]

200-250psi fuel pressure while at 200rpm seems reasonable I guess, but I'm not sure what's normal.

Can we confirm no issues with the tune? It could possibly be getting too much fuel or something (I've had that before, wrong value in a table).

Are you getting valid MAF readings/voltage looking at a datalog?

IDK just some ideas... I would try to verify all relevant sensors are displaying reasonable values.

I'll post up if I can think of anything else

 

[Solarsurge]

200-250psi fuel pressure while at 200rpm seems reasonable I guess, but I'm not sure what's normal.

Can we confirm no issues with the tune? It could possibly be getting too much fuel or something (I've had that before, wrong value in a table).

Are you getting valid MAF readings/voltage looking at a datalog?

IDK just some ideas... I would try to verify all relevant sensors are displaying reasonable values.

I'll post up if I can think of anything else

Here are 2 log files of the no start cranking. Log 1 is normal log. Log 2 is basically voltage and fuel info.
[doublepost=1536809192][/doublepost]Bear in mind when we started cranking, the battery was fully charged and at 12.8v so by the second log, the battery had been drained a bit.
[doublepost=1536810678][/doublepost]The only thing that stands out as odd is the AFR is pinned at 14.85. I honestly have never had a crank/no start situation before, so I've never actually had to pay attention to AFRs simply while cranking. Googling it, I see @Maisonvi had a similar issue, but I'm pretty sure his was while the car was running. I don't know about cranking.

Just a little background... with a manual and the right set of tools, I can probably rebuild a space shuttle mechanically. Electrical, on the other hand, is not my forte. Wiring diagrams are like hieroglyphics to me. I fully admit that.

 

[Sho]

100% sure the Hpfp ground from the coil pack harness is secure?

Fuel pump relay on driver side frame rail plugged in?

 

[Solarsurge]

100% sure the Hpfp ground from the coil pack harness is secure?

Fuel pump relay on driver side frame rail plugged in?

Yes and yes. When we checked for spark, we checked connected to the battery negative, to the coil pack ground itself, to the PMM ground strap, and to the head itself. All locations fired.

As for the relay, you are referring to the ballast? Yes, that’s plugged in, too.


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[doublepost=1536818013][/doublepost]Well, just heard back from tuner. Seems my gut was right two days ago. He checked the cranking logs and he said the fuel pressure is not enough to start while cranking. So, it's definitely fuel pressure related. Luckily I have two fuel pumps and two spill valves. I know it's not the pressure sensor because I already swapped that.

 

[aaronc7]

Good deal...at least now we have solid proof and know what to look for. Did he say what is normal/typical cranking fuel pressure? Can you log in tank /pre HPFP pressure?

 

[Bigelow]

I had a 14.85 afr when I had my no start like yours. Turns out I had my crank position sensor on backwards( had other people helping with car) flipped it the correct way. And set right and it barked right off. Best of luck man

 

[Solarsurge]

I had a 14.85 afr when I had my no start like yours. Turns out I had my crank position sensor on backwards( had other people helping with car) flipped it the correct way. And set right and it barked right off. Best of luck man

Now that would be funny lol. Did it still register RPM when you cranked? My tuner says it’s fuel pressure related for sure, so today we diagnose the fuel system (FML)


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