Split Second Controller Install

JohnnyTightlips

JohnnyTightlips

Motorhead
The Split Second Controller is use to control additional Port Injection injectors. It uses MAF voltage and RPM to know how much to spray when. The controller is programmed via com to usb cable. It's kinda old school tech but it works well and is much more reliable then meth.

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I will not be getting into the software side of this as most don't need to know this as they won't be tuning their own car. Here is some good info on that though.
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Wires:
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1234 - These each go to the far left side of the coil plug. It does not matter which plug. You will be tapping into the wire. Mine has a plug on it from previous install yours will probably be bare wires.
6 - This needs to be fused 12v+ ignition on so find a fuse to tap that is only hot when the car is running. Use an add a fuse to make it easier.
7 - Ground
8 - MAF Signal - This will tap the MAF signal to be able to read the MAF voltage

1234 - Here is a pic of where you want to tap , circled in red, you will solder 1 of each of those 4 to each coil connector far left wire. You can either cut the wire and re-solder if that is easier or be lazy and trim some insulation, solder and wrap in electrical tape. It's up to you but be aware if you mess it up you're gonna have a bad time.
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8 - MAF - Here you will want to tap the middle MAF wire. This wire will output 0-5v MAF voltage
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The rest of the wires in the harness plug into your PI injectors. Please check the video linked for testing info.

Plugs that go to PI injectors
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Side Note: Take your time, do it once, do it right. If you want to be fancy you can use weather pack connectors to make it so you can removed the unit easily. I am doing it this way as I incorporated it all into the harness when I redid it for my build.


If you buy the SP63 plug and play harness, here ya go.
SP63 - Harness

Red - Plug into existing coil pack wires
Blue - Plug into coils
Green - 4 wire coil signal goes to "1234" in the above picture

If you bought it all second hand and don't have the right connector go here. Otherwise you can solder the wires together.
Delphi Packard (4 Circuits,) Square Dual 2x2 Weatherpack, Waterproof, Terminal Kit 18 20 GA

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Attachments

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Here is the map file "with settings" to test out your injectors at idle. You will also use these settings when tuning but will need to change the injector timings as needed for the tune.
You can see in this tune that the 3ms pulse is the same as Nishans video. You can use this map to do his testing steps.

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Updated MAF Power and Ground section

I stopped doing it this way as it did not seem to have enough amperage past 5500 when they spray really started kicking in. Will confirm after some more testing. I am using the middle wire only now for signal.

Also to note if you want to tap the MAF for power and ground you can, it already has a fused +12v on it. I ended up making a harness to tap into mine. I had been meaning to extend the maf wires a bit so this was a good time to do it.

Circles in pic
Red +12v , Blue MAF Signal, Black Ground
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Updated MAF Power and Ground section, right now I am not sure if that power has the required amperage to properly run the SS. I was starting to have issues with fueling up top and I don't think it was providing the injectors with enough power. I switched to a +12v switched that was open in the fuse box and so far results have been better with fueling being more even. I now have the ground going to it's own spot as well and the only thing I am tapping the MAF for is signal.

According to SS - 16 amps is A LOT , I have it set for a 15 amp fuse right now as most people run 10 without issue.
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I double checked and it is also reading accurate maf volts. The SS controller rounds up or down vs showing 2 decimal places.
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Attachments

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Soldering connections is the only way to do this install reliably. Butt connectors, splices, etc, are a no go. This is something that is life or death for your car, do it right and take it slow.

I used these on some connections with awesome results if you don't want to full blown solder and want to take the easy way.

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JohnnyTightlips said:
Also to note if you want to tap the MAF for power and ground you can, it already has a fused +12v on it. I ended up making a harness to tap into mine. I had been meaning to extend the maf wires a bit so this was a good time to do it.

Circles in pic
Red +12v , Blue MAF Signal, Black Ground
View attachment 14040
View attachment 14041
Click to expand...

Oh shit really? I can ditch my add a fuses then and just splice right into the MAF? and a fuckin ground? I didn't realize this. This saves me some wire length for sure.
 
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Bigelow said:
Pulling power from maf wont mess with maf readings?
Click to expand...
Not that I have seen. Will from purple drank talked about this setup on facebook a while ago and did not have anything bad to say about it. Eric was also making harnesses for it but did not sell enough so he stopped doing it but he has also not had issues.
 
Good to know. Figured since reading is in voltage and the ssc kicks on at set voltage there may be an issue
 
RIP you shoulda told me this before I wired mine in, lol. Grab a $20 harness extension to splice into and make it totally unobtrusive to the oem wiring system.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
Updated MAF Power and Ground section, right now I am not sure if that power has the required amperage to properly run the SS. I was starting to have issues with fueling up top and I don't think it was providing the injectors with enough power. I switched to a +12v switched that was open in the fuse box and so far results have been better with fueling being more even. I now have the ground going to it's own spot as well and the only thing I am tapping the MAF for is signal.

According to SS - 16 amps is A LOT , I have it set for a 15 amp fuse right now as most people run 10 without issue.
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View attachment 14510

I double checked and it is also reading accurate maf volts. The SS controller rounds up or down vs showing 2 decimal places.
o1Ds66vojmLsTPIjswEs-Y4JeMrdEPi7uGGRMRyNPX2FRAl7wPzurtg51RW93kkK0u9J3zmu9vl3q6FL0EGH-3SVqQF13Z8OS1CmSOjoduW2GDvyGbtjjUyj7Y1HWNynqZAtNMEf9Y9fuMHfclvK7_RmQDT8oDjVesDz56ub8AEySrqu92BjbA0Hey8Fjzlqdv6oy7cqCk8iG5mFX4bNH1cm_41VkFgAYA07EF0V5CxMjN88WX1L9XYYfelCYsajJLvpq_B8cPebe6K5XrbrbH0E68DynlJ6EtJWhlAhNzkVHjWp6_MJ7sF2B5rZ5-oznJZ0rpw-B-Gj-wxKO1NIiooe9azsOFiNCZpuJU9fmqQLF_75yH7qjjbdMwlpa4IAHxruEqDySSBGM-Z6kXTpvqj3C-SoCjdNJC2nGwuu6bHMbQBZGOElm2F5yi4coaJqNsT6bmMA7UqPMyN0UsZITB1MOsIAK139r13XQmDeGMN7YqUfJeIwoChlmIgZAHiFQnUpapIaffliWUj335dEiXcOKd3J2y9KoH5_I1mwcD9-ZqyXOCKJlWSAHkp2YIoIzzUF9o0wAiIcNuNpckFHorDRafz_rbgC_q7LFyx0qAAHF9Zn7PEE5kpvXk9IWPFujzvVNYDETXPepDrZn7btzwZXjAQp41XtoBc1lLYGhqHTzViLE3u7xBal01GCueo=w1250-h937-no
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Is there an empty one like this on the gen 2?


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SharksInSpace said:
2010 here - I used add-a-fuses on the 15a ENG BAR fuse for my SSC, and the 15a ENG BAR 2 fuse for my wotbox
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Hey thanks a lot! I’ll try this tomorrow! How long have you had it set up like this? And any issues at all or blown fuses so far?


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Jmeza157 said:
Hey thanks a lot! I’ll try this tomorrow! How long have you had it set up like this? And any issues at all or blown fuses so far?
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I've had it set up and running since last March, no issues at all. You might be able to find empty slots to use if that's your preference (I didn't look), but this has been working for me. I just had to notch the fuse box cover to allow the add a fuses to pass through.
 
Fastspeed6 said:
Can someone send me a digital copy of the split second r4 software
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you can directly email them and they will send you a installer for it.

I did email them saying almost 90% of laptops and computer doesn't have a CD drive anymore and I cant be paying $55 for the software just because I cant use the CD that have the software in it,

I wish the link for mine was still active but that was a year ago and expired so it cant be share,
 
Hi guys any one having issues with the controller not reading correct RPM?


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Any chance you can re-upload the pictures that are missing. I'm having an issue not being able to connect to the ECU in RS4. I'm thinking it is possible there is a plug that was never plugged in. I have already tried a 2nd usb to serial cable as well. I'm pretty stumped so I'm hoping maybe a good picture of all the connectors will allow me to check them all.
 
jeopardy98 said:
Any chance you can re-upload the pictures that are missing. I'm having an issue not being able to connect to the ECU in RS4. I'm thinking it is possible there is a plug that was never plugged in. I have already tried a 2nd usb to serial cable as well. I'm pretty stumped so I'm hoping maybe a good picture of all the connectors will allow me to check them all.
Click to expand...
I fixed two I saw were bad , are there still more? Are you sure you are looking at the device manager to see what Com Port the USB to Serial is creating?
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I fixed two I saw were bad , are there still more? Are you sure you are looking at the device manager to see what Com Port the USB to Serial is creating?
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Yes. If you don't have the correct com port you get a different error.

I think I found the problem. Whoever used the add a fuse only used 1 fuse in it AND they had it installed backwards. Terminal leg A on the add a fuse has to be on the +12v side. I added a 2nd fuse and turned it and it connected the first time. I spent hours tracing wires and plugs.
 
JohnnyTightlips said:
I fixed two I saw were bad , are there still more? Are you sure you are looking at the device manager to see what Com Port the USB to Serial is creating?
Click to expand...

There are 2 pics not showing, the first and the "Plugs that go to PI injectors"
I'm doing this this summer. Add-a-fuse still the way to go?
 
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