JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Looks good to me, darker colors are easier to keep clean with all the oil and crap.
StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build
- Thread starter StreetSpeed6
- Start date
- Watchers 38
It was either that, textured black, or a dark crimson red. That was my colors of choice to decide between.
Awafrican
Moderator
Looks good!
Decided to go ahead and paint them today so here they are.
Im planning to put a clear coat as well but this punctuation gives a better idea of the color and metallic in it.
***** Warning Long Post ******
The pipes are finally finished. I was going to clear coat them a couple times but im ready to be done and they aren’t that nice so my new setup will get the works but this will do for these lol
Do you guys honestly like or dislike the intercooler pipes showing through the bumper like they do in my profile pic? I just originally wanted a fmic setup and got it for free so made it work. That meant doing it like that basically, but it has somewhat grown on me and I kind of think it’s unique.
I am asking because if I chose to keep the pipes there I will have to make sure the intercooler mounts at the same place and I am planning to cut out the crash bar and flip the intercooler up (upside down from how it is now) to get it away from the ground. Zig-zag black line is where I’ll cut and the black arrow represents the intercooler flipping up but the pipes staying in the same places. Black is the only marker color my gay phone had for some reason so sorry in advance.
And last for this wall of text is my downpipe update. I got my downpipe back and my buddy welded what he could and said some of it was spiderweb cracked everywhere when it got hot. Next to the flex piece it was cracked almost all the way around and he said it kept blowing it out and couldn’t fix it.
I decided to use some “Quick Steel” brand stuff rated for 2,400 degrees and advertised as meant for use on exhaust manifolds and what not. We will see if it does the trick and here is what it looks like applied.
I ran a thin bit over where he welded the crack hoping to help strengthen what he was able to fix as well.
The pipes are finally finished. I was going to clear coat them a couple times but im ready to be done and they aren’t that nice so my new setup will get the works but this will do for these lol
Do you guys honestly like or dislike the intercooler pipes showing through the bumper like they do in my profile pic? I just originally wanted a fmic setup and got it for free so made it work. That meant doing it like that basically, but it has somewhat grown on me and I kind of think it’s unique.
I am asking because if I chose to keep the pipes there I will have to make sure the intercooler mounts at the same place and I am planning to cut out the crash bar and flip the intercooler up (upside down from how it is now) to get it away from the ground. Zig-zag black line is where I’ll cut and the black arrow represents the intercooler flipping up but the pipes staying in the same places. Black is the only marker color my gay phone had for some reason so sorry in advance.
And last for this wall of text is my downpipe update. I got my downpipe back and my buddy welded what he could and said some of it was spiderweb cracked everywhere when it got hot. Next to the flex piece it was cracked almost all the way around and he said it kept blowing it out and couldn’t fix it.
I decided to use some “Quick Steel” brand stuff rated for 2,400 degrees and advertised as meant for use on exhaust manifolds and what not. We will see if it does the trick and here is what it looks like applied.
I ran a thin bit over where he welded the crack hoping to help strengthen what he was able to fix as well.
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Went on my first run with my newly beaded ic piping and fixed downpipe. She seemed to be running awesome and holding good boost again but the second run didn’t go so nicely like the first. Took it back out about 30 mins later to do another datalog.
Lets just say I have another brand new alternator in...again... lol l have no idea what made this one go out but drove it about 2 miles from the house to warm it up fully again and then everything went crazy. My dash lit up like a christmas tree and and my battery voltage showed 8v
Lets just say I have another brand new alternator in...again... lol l have no idea what made this one go out but drove it about 2 miles from the house to warm it up fully again and then everything went crazy. My dash lit up like a christmas tree and and my battery voltage showed 8v
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
Any idea what keeps killing your alternators?
As of now I have no idea. I know that the first time it went bad was an old alternator and a brand new motor so it didn’t surprise me. This time is different as it is pretty new so definitely a surprise, but I did have trouble getting it in there and ended up with some downpipe wrap in that plastic fan cover thing on the side of it.
Looked to me like it sucked it up in there or something so that was clue number one. Clue number two was obvious and my fault honestly which is letting the oil leak from my attempt at a oil breather cap on my gen 1 vc. The execution of it was nice but the vc just simply threw too much oil at it and allowed it to push up and out and I neglected to buy a new oil cap for a while. These were what I feel were the contributing factors along with heat that ultimately caused its failure.
Ran some pulls today and a few days ago to compare the two different maps I have I can run at the moments. Cobb map is on the money with my AFR's but not pushing much boost. Then, you have the Dizzy map running a ridiculous amount of fuel and rich as could be but pushing more boost like I was wanting. I will probably run the Dizzy map since it is specific to my car even though I honestly don't have a ton of faith in his tuning after @Bigelow's experience.
I don't doubt he can tune but just want to stick with a tuner that can tune every setup I run and not just a setup with a stock turbo and stock fuel basically. Plan to go with PD or Freektune. Let me know if anything stands out to you guys on either of my datalogs. Also, I am planning to do some detailing to the car and clean up my headlights soon. I will be much happier once they aren't an ugly faded color.
I don't doubt he can tune but just want to stick with a tuner that can tune every setup I run and not just a setup with a stock turbo and stock fuel basically. Plan to go with PD or Freektune. Let me know if anything stands out to you guys on either of my datalogs. Also, I am planning to do some detailing to the car and clean up my headlights soon. I will be much happier once they aren't an ugly faded color.
Here are my detailing goodies thus far. Nervous about using a clay bar for the first time but im sure it will be fine.
Headlight restorer, trim restorer, the Mothers “california gold” clay bar kit, some detail towels, and some Mothers SPEED wash and wax.
Hope it was worth the $50-60 at least. Started working 4 10’s so I get fridays off now too. This should give me plenty of time this weekend to get it done as long as the weather is decent one day.
Headlight restorer, trim restorer, the Mothers “california gold” clay bar kit, some detail towels, and some Mothers SPEED wash and wax.
Hope it was worth the $50-60 at least. Started working 4 10’s so I get fridays off now too. This should give me plenty of time this weekend to get it done as long as the weather is decent one day.
Don't get any of that trim restorer on the paint, it does create spots that last a while.
As far as using a clay bar, it's not rocket science. The secret is dont go cheap on the spray detailer that keeps the clay slick, I always keep 2 bottles handy before I start. Clay bars should feel slick and smooth when you run it on the paint. If it gets caught on any part of the paint, hit it with more detailer and continue.
Once you're ready to fold over the clay, use a light spray before you fold it. This keeps the clay from drying out. Same goes for when you store the clay in a container, give it a couple of sprays of detailer so it doesn't dry out in storage.
As far as using a clay bar, it's not rocket science. The secret is dont go cheap on the spray detailer that keeps the clay slick, I always keep 2 bottles handy before I start. Clay bars should feel slick and smooth when you run it on the paint. If it gets caught on any part of the paint, hit it with more detailer and continue.
Once you're ready to fold over the clay, use a light spray before you fold it. This keeps the clay from drying out. Same goes for when you store the clay in a container, give it a couple of sprays of detailer so it doesn't dry out in storage.
Had a day off today and decided to take my wife somewhere she had been wanting to go. Just so happened that where we were going is a town about an hour away that supposedly had E85. Lets just say they are completely incorrect and are falsely advertising lol This is the pump they have been selling as E85 apparently!
I asked them inside if they had E85 and they specifically said these 3 pumps had it and that is what they were selling. Would be a REALLY bad day for a speed owner to run that on an e30 tune. Knock heaven here I come!
I asked them inside if they had E85 and they specifically said these 3 pumps had it and that is what they were selling. Would be a REALLY bad day for a speed owner to run that on an e30 tune. Knock heaven here I come!
I was planning to post up a current wot run but realized I did that a few posts ago. @JohnnyTightlips my car seems to be 11.76 and steady on the Cobb stg 3 tune and almost a full point rich with the dizzy tune. Here is this to sum them up...
Dizzy
Boost- 17.4psi (305g/s) @ 5000rpms w/ 5* timing.
AFR- 10.73 to 10.88
KR- 0.7 @ 2900
Max Calculated Load- 2.4
Cobb stg 3
Boost- 16psi (246 g/s) @ 5000rpms w/ 8* timing.
AFR- 11.76
KR- 0.35 @ 2800
Max Calculated Load- 1.98
Dizzy
Boost- 17.4psi (305g/s) @ 5000rpms w/ 5* timing.
AFR- 10.73 to 10.88
KR- 0.7 @ 2900
Max Calculated Load- 2.4
Cobb stg 3
Boost- 16psi (246 g/s) @ 5000rpms w/ 8* timing.
AFR- 11.76
KR- 0.35 @ 2800
Max Calculated Load- 1.98
Well guys at the suggestion of @JohnnyTightlips I decided to contact Jason aka Dizzy Tuning and see what he thought about revising the map he made me before knowing my motor was screwed. I flashed his map after doing a boost leak test and put 100 miles on it and then done an idle log and a maf cal log. He said they "looked ok". I told him his map seems to make my car stumble going wot anywhere from almost 3,500rpms and below (which I only do because #built motor life lol). On bigger power or cold weather I wouldn't but none the less it falls on its face for the first half second of a wot basically.
He told me I either had a boost leak or dirty/old/ improperly gapped plugs so I told him I did the boost leak test before even running his map and gapped my plugs when installing on the new built motor probably 4-5k miles ago. Went ahead and checked them though and here is what I came up with.
I'm no expert at reading plugs so don't really know how these look but they were all still gapped at .028 and I decided to bring them down to .026 instead and it didn't stumble nearly as much at the beginning of the run. Here are the logs guys so please let me know if you agree with Jason about how they look. I specifically told him it was so rich that that is why I was choosing not to run his map and hoped he would correct for me so I didn't have to run the cobb stg 3 map. He also hasn't got back with me yet about the wot run since I just sent it but surely he will agree this is wayy too rich lol
He told me I either had a boost leak or dirty/old/ improperly gapped plugs so I told him I did the boost leak test before even running his map and gapped my plugs when installing on the new built motor probably 4-5k miles ago. Went ahead and checked them though and here is what I came up with.
I'm no expert at reading plugs so don't really know how these look but they were all still gapped at .028 and I decided to bring them down to .026 instead and it didn't stumble nearly as much at the beginning of the run. Here are the logs guys so please let me know if you agree with Jason about how they look. I specifically told him it was so rich that that is why I was choosing not to run his map and hoped he would correct for me so I didn't have to run the cobb stg 3 map. He also hasn't got back with me yet about the wot run since I just sent it but surely he will agree this is wayy too rich lol
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
It goes very rich at tip in which is likely your stumble as it is misfiring. It is def too rich throughout the band 11.5 would feel much better. Whatever intake you have is too small if you start adding any power. Spark adv is a little low even for 93 so a point on that up top would not hurt looks like an overly cautious tune with too much fuel. It is set to give me all the boost up top but the ko4 is dying.
Dizzy says that is oil on my plug and that I need to do a compression test. I think it just looks somewhat fowled from all the carbon deposits since it was running so rich on his tune. Guess I might do one just to make sure but it doesn’t feel like bad compression at all it just feels much more doggie on his map than the cobb stg 3
How were you driving right before pulling the plugs? Ideally you should go make a couple of pulls and pull over and shut down to see how the tune is reading on the plugs.
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