StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

Which should I get for Christmas?

  • Big Fmic Core (tr9/10 or equivalent size)

    Votes: 1 20.0%
  • EWG conversation for my CST4 setup

    Votes: 2 40.0%
  • Rear Diff Mount

    Votes: 2 40.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .
That gasket is meant for the downpipe to cat back but if it's ball and to bell mouth that didn't need a gasket on my eBay one.
Ok good to know I will just leave it out of there then. I was invited to take my car to a car show and am thinking about dropping my coilovers down. I’m just nervous since I could potentially not be able to get a jack back under it haha
 
Live update Mazdaspeed fam! Gave the speed 6 some much needed love this weekend and put in my new downpipe.
******WARNING LONG POST*******
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For anyone buying an ebay downpipe just know that 4 years ago the vbands were twice as heavy duty apparently.
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I ran into a small clearance issue as well, but I am about to address it here in a bit tonight. I also went ahead and cleaned my headlights up which im glad I did! They are much nicer looking now and will hopefully hold up long enough until I can get some sort of replacements or at least fix the ones I have.
BEFORE:
IMG_20200823_150810035.jpg AFTER:
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One of the HID power plugs burned up and I have yet to buy what I need to fix it and pull them apart. When I do I will buy new lenses as they are cheap but I just wish there was a video out there which would help me know exactly what im getting into. Our headlights look complicated but I am also just not good with wiring other than routing in cars and stuff. I also installed a Damond oil temp/pressure sensor kit for my pillar pod gauge. This required the oil to be drained so oil change it was! Lol
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I also received my new set of NGK 6510 1 step colder plugs so decided to throw those in with the new downpipe. The old ones don't look bad to me but definitely a white tip so either rich or lean condition I would guess from my ugly old downpipe..
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Everything seems to be good except the downpipe clearance but it's just the veryy edge of the driveshaft nuts touching it so I may just grind the edge of each on off a tiny bit and that should take care of it. Just threw a few "cold ones" in the garage fridge and got to work haha
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Found one other thing that I will save for another post since there was so much in this one but be looking for the post cause it is worth looking at. My car is so decriped and old but I keep showing it love anyways lol
 
Dont fuck with your driveshaft nuts just to get an ebay downpipe to fit.

Bend the hangers on the downpipe or take a hammer to the downpipe portion that is touching.

The last thing you need are balance issues on the driveshaft from grinding the nuts down offset.
That's exactly what I did. Just heated up the spot that was touching and flattened it there a bit. Didn't take much at all to clear and all is good now man! :) Does anyone happen to know what the part numbers are for the bolts in the t-case/ motor bracket? It's pretty beefy bolts whatever they are.
Found out the bolts have decided to come out at some point and the bracket came off. No damage has been done except the axle tried to eat the part slowly but surely and it didn't do too bad honestly haha
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I'd do some searching on Jim Ellis or onlinemazdaparts to find the Mazda part number
I have yet to find it man but let me know if you do by chance. I have looked but might just call our local mazdaspeed dealer and see if I can't find out. Regular mazda dealer by me said they couldn't look up mazdaspeed stuff or something stupid. They said it's because they're not certified to deal with them lol
 
Looks like they are $4 each and I need 5 plus the different one so might buy one and try to get the rest local for cheaper if possible but I kind of doubt I can. Time to get to buying I guess!
 
Good news Mazda fam! I am finally going to be installing my CST4 here before long!! I also have been afforded the opportunity to see how much my ko4 setup will make and so here are the result.
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For anyone new to mazdaspeeds and has questions concerning installing a bigger map sensor/ 3 port boost controller and what it intels here you go!
For the 3.5 bar map sensor it is easy to install imo. I have a fmic setup but could be a bit more to it with tmic guys im not for sure. Anyway, you will need an 8mm socket and ratchet for this bracket here next to the oil dipstick.
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Unplug the big connector and tuck part of it under the power steering reservoir out of the way and the other wherever is best. Pull the bracket back and you will see the map sensor and 1 single bolt. My suggestion is to use the 7mm socket it takes and remove from manifold and then unplug as it is easier unbolted to get ahold of.

IMG_20200919_222002211_HDR.jpg
IMG_20200919_221922529_HDR.jpgReinstall with oil on the oring of the new map sensor and hook everything back up as before. Your tune will have to be adjusted for the new sensor to drive the car.

Now for the 3 port ebcs you will need to remove you air intake at the least depending on what you have done. I have deleted my egr so it was pretty spacious back there. Unhook the vacuum lines for the factory boost controller. Then, ubolt it using a 10mm socket and ratchet and unplug. Installing the new 3 port isn't too bad either and you will need a smaller size vacuum cap (I bought a set with multiple sizes.

Once you're to this point follow this diagram to know where each hose hooks to.
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If this diagram doesn't help, seeing as some boost controllers don't have the numbering, I would recommend using CS install instructions.
 
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This won't be the most exciting post for most readers im sure but it is something I am very glad to have done. I finally fixed my burnt up HID igniter. For anyone not familiar with hid headlights the igniter is basically the plug that plugs onto the back of the bulb. Mine decided to nuke itself forever ago and I had been deciding how to go about fixing it.

I bought a set of "adapter igniters" that were $7 on Amazon and shipped to my house in literally one day.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AQBIICK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
I cut off the old plug and extended the wires from it so it will be easy to replace next time if this is an issue again. Then, after soldering the extensions on I plugged the headlight in and used a multimeter to check for the hot wire and the ground. Once finding out which was which I used the red wire for the hot (on the new igniter) and cut off the plug and the clear wire as the ground. Soldered them together and all is well now!

I wish I would've done this sooo long ago and saved myself the stress about it. Anyway if anyone else has this issue it is not bad to fix I promise!
The passenger side headlight is now fixed and even seems brighter than the driver side. I'm going to keep chipping away at this poor high mileage thing lol She has treated me well but needs lots of tlc is all.
 

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So I know my car isn't a show car guys but was invited to be in one so I cleaned up the ol' speed 6 better than ever and entered. This was a show in memory of a local boy that died young and loved cars.

I entered in two categories: Show and Shine, and also two step.
I basically won the 2 step but they brought a full blown drag car (old school gasser with long tube headers) and had only headers. Needless to say that it didn't have any sort of "2 step" but managed to win lol Great day none the less and ended in a nice long drive and burnouts after leaving the cemetery where he was buried.
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Not a huge update yet guys but about to get the piping to make my custom 3.5" air intake so stay tuned for that. Also will be installing the CST4 pretty soon after getting the intake done. Considering wrapping my ic piping in reflection tape to help keep the heat out of the boosted air so uf anyone has any experience with how well that works then please chime in!
 
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