StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build

[StreetSpeed6]

It looks like yours is around the wrong way as well, you may want to pull it off and make sure you can only blow through one side only. The side you can blow through ( pretty sure the light colored side) need to point to the purge valve and black side to intake mani so when purge valve opens it lets it through that check valve to let the vapors into the intake mani to burn.

Also check the purge valve as it has been getting boost pushed into it with the check valve not there to protect it and make sure it's not damaged by blowing into both ways. It should be closed and hard to blow through.

Yours looks like the check valve is wrong way around and would be blocking any vapors getting to the purge valve to release the pressure from the fuel tank. Car will probably run way better as well.

I only recently became friends with my evap system to learn what it does after my last drag strip rip. When the car was warm and i then start it , it would stumble at idle for a bit and a raw fuel smell, fuel trims were off and it didn't feel as responsive.
Tracked it down to that check valve and purge solenoid. Turns out the check vavle can only protect so much. 38psi of boost destroyed it and then hammered the purge valve as well which was allowing pressure to travel ether way through them at will lol.

Dang! Did you just get a better check valve to install then I guess? It seems to idle fairly well but I do notice a small hickup in it or burble. I will update once it is all install correctly and hope my solenoid still works as I actually replaced it thinking I was fixing it and didn't realize it was all backwards hence it still being incorrect and all screwed up.

 

[shaneski]

Dang! Did you just get a better check valve to install then I guess? It seems to idle fairly well but I do notice a small hickup in it or burble. I will update once it is all install correctly and hope my solenoid still works as I actually replaced it thinking I was fixing it and didn't realize it was all backwards hence it still being incorrect and all screwed up.

For now i put a stock one back in, it has been copping over 30psi for the last 6 years. When i put the high boost drag tune in i might just take the hose off the manifold and let it vent to air and screw a bung in the manifold and connect it back for street life, which Freek advised to do so it doesn't fail mid run and drop boost..
I was like most, i had no clue what those parts even did since i bought the car brand new in 2012 until this year lol.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

For now i put a stock one back in, it has been copping over 30psi for the last 6 years. When i put the high boost drag tune in i might just take the hose off the manifold and let it vent to air and screw a bung in the manifold and connect it back for street life, which Freek advised to do so it doesn't fail mid run and drop boost..
I was like most, i had no clue what those parts even did since i bought the car brand new in 2012 until this year lol.

Got that turned around and haven't noticed a cel for it yet. Didn't seem to change how the car ran but definitely have noticed a difference in gas mileage. It could also be me not boosting my new turbo yet in combination with not being into boost at 3k rpms with any throttle input whatsoever lol I haven't got to drive as much as I would liked to.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Well guys another update on the CST4 and it is not good unfortunately. The oil seals seem to have failed on it as I found a ton of oil in the hotside ic piping today.


After boosting only 9psi and see a YUUGGEE white/blue cloud of smoke behind me that didn't subside for a good 15-20 seconds and engulfed all traffic behind me, I checked into it. I have ordered a rebuild kit and was lucky enough to have found a how-to video that not only shows how it is done but also what internals the CST4 uses.

For anyone else needing new CST4 oil seals and bearings here is the link with the How-To.

VIDEO 1:
https://www.google.com/search?q=cst...ovil-us-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#

VIDEO 2:
https://www.google.com/search?q=cst...ovil-us-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#

And here is the link for the rebuild kit which just happens to be the same for a TD05/TD06 mitsubishi setup according to the video and what he says Corksport actually told him.

CST4 Rebuild Kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/-Upgraded-...5?pageci=c5f9b3f8-0199-4b3d-b58c-07070396bffb

For science I am going to rebuild this myself and attempt to mark everything and replace in the same orientation it was removed, which in theory will keep it balanced. Each individual piece of the turbo is balanced to itself before being all balanced together so it should be very close anyway.

I don't have much to lose considering the alternative to this in my mind is getting another turbo as I would rather that then pay half of another turbo cost to fix this one. I am receiving the rebuild kit next week so I will do a how to on how it is rebuilt to the best of my abilities in case that video ends up lost for whatever reason.

 

[SharksInSpace]

classic @mangosmoothie selling rekd parts

 

[StreetSpeed6]

classic @mangosmoothie selling rekd parts

He basically gave it to me and I know he didn't know. If I had paid a lot for it I would be mad but he hooked a guy up. Just wish that I could've known before the install lol

 

[Easter Bunny]

At least you know none of the bolts are stuck

 

[StreetSpeed6]

None of the bolts were stuck Bunny but I did tighten them intending to not take it off for a good while lol I have the turbo out and im going to try and rebuild it today and install it. Need to go get snap ring pliers, some parts cleaner, etc. Guess we'll see how this goes!

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Getting closer to the first pulls with the cst4 back in the car. Had a "minor" hickup as I decided to snap my turbine shaft. Lol I will just say to anyone rebuilding a turbo that the compressor nut is backwards threaded. I hit it with my 1/4" milwaukee impact and didn't know that it was left hand threads. So I think it broke because I possibly stretched or weakened thr threads at first which caused it to break when re-tightening.


The guy in the video of this turbo rebuild did good but left out that very important detail and has yet to make the 3rd part video of him reassembling the turbo. I am supposed to receive the new shaft today and might fix it and install early next week or maybe even tonight idk.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

******HUGE UPDATE******

CST4 is in and running great! Vented catch can is installed also and car is feeling like it is running better than it ever has with super low ltft's. I logged a 3rd gear pull last night since it was my first revision ready for boost. Hit about 14-15psi and honestly felt almost as fast as my ko4 on 21psi lol Considering it held it to redline and the ko4 dropped from 21 all the way down to about 14psi by redline usually.

Can't wait to put this baby on the moon tune and see what it will do. I will slowly be gaining PI setup to get it going eventually as well so thanks @JohnnyTightlips for the push on that one haha Wife didn't love it but @_Mazdarati is going to be hooking me up with the fuel rail as my first piece to this semi-expensive endeavor. Wife says she is making me a decal for my car that says "Money Pit" haha Told her to make it big and I'll slap it on the side of the windshield vertical.

I'll be posting the log here after a bit once I get it off my AP. Stay tuned for more HP!

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Getting that tune sawwsss going on! Not crazy fast but faster than ever before at least! Haha

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Well I'm officially running 3" turbo back exhaust all the way to my dual exit mufflers. Kept the 2.5" magnaflow mufflers I had and am pleased with how they sound. They're definitely a straight through design.


I will be looking to add some short 2.5"-3.5" weld on tips on them shortly.



Wasn't necessary planning to do the exhaust yet but my car decided to have a exhaust hanger break off from the exhaust and rip a big hole in it where it had rusted I guess. So since I couldn't stand it anymore I had it rebuilt basically.



Made a y-pipe piece at home so that it would evenly split the exhaust out each pipe unlike most of store bought stuff which appears to basically aim towards one way and just branch off towards the other a little bit.


Overall I'm happy with it all and will post a sound clip in my exhaust thread when I get time to make one.

I didn't get a chance to take the finished product so I will try and get one of those soon as well. My friend who owns the exhaust shop was in a hurry as he stayed over yesterday on a holiday weekend to hook me up, so when he was ready to leave I didn't make him wait haha

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Me and the only other local speed guy around shot some drone footage of our cars over weekend. Had fun and got to get out a bit to enjoy the nice weather. He is still learning how to edit stuff so he didn't get to use a couple shots. Overall turned out kind of cool though so check it out!

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Nice!!!
I like the motion shots, nice to get a camera up for some of them. A friend of mine has offered to do the same with the drone from the municipality here, he works for the city. Might have to give it a try too.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

Nice!!!
I like the motion shots, nice to get a camera up for some of them. A friend of mine has offered to do the same with the drone from the municipality here, he works for the city. Might have to give it a try too.

Yeah I really enjoyed it you should give it a go! Only thing I regret is not being able to do something with sound like a launch control (2 stepish) rev up and launch or something.

 

[StreetSpeed6]

My speed has decided to develop an annoying issue that just started. I'm assuming something is draining the battery. It's keeping voltage while driving so alternator is good. I got code p0138 when this all started which is for my secondary o2 sensor being faulty for whatever reason.

I'm going to start troubleshooting this by unplugging my secondary o2 sensor and also checking all the wiring for my trunk relocated battery. Cable should technically be solid wire but I used 2 gauge cca wire instead as it was readily available. Might even just pull it and replace to see if that fixes it or not. Any suggestions on where else to check would be great. Dash lights start to light up when key is turned on and immediately everything goes dead like the battery has zero power. Once it is jump started it works just fine again and starts up a few times and runs.

Alternator is new but seeing as how I seem to go through them fast for some reason it could starting to fail but is still keeping voltage while driving mostly. I hate troubleshooting electrical wiring stuff. Not my strong suite AT ALL...

 

[JohnnyTightlips]

My speed has decided to develop an annoying issue that just started. I'm assuming something is draining the battery. It's keeping voltage while driving so alternator is good. I got code p0138 when this all started which is for my secondary o2 sensor being faulty for whatever reason.

I'm going to start troubleshooting this by unplugging my secondary o2 sensor and also checking all the wiring for my trunk relocated battery. Cable should technically be solid wire but I used 2 gauge cca wire instead as it was readily available. Might even just pull it and replace to see if that fixes it or not. Any suggestions on where else to check would be great. Dash lights start to light up when key is turned on and immediately everything goes dead like the battery has zero power. Once it is jump started it works just fine again and starts up a few times and runs.

Alternator is new but seeing as how I seem to go through them fast for some reason it could starting to fail but is still keeping voltage while driving mostly. I hate troubleshooting electrical wiring stuff. Not my strong suite AT ALL...

I use this wire and it is very nice, 2 awg pure copper. 2 awg OFC is more like 6 awg copper so maybe it is not doing the job and putting stress on the system. You might also want to check that your ground in the trunk is good. Amazon product ASIN B00Z8XE1N6

 

[StreetSpeed6]

I use this wire and it is very nice, 2 awg pure copper. 2 awg OFC is more like 6 awg copper so maybe it is not doing the job and putting stress on the system. You might also want to check that your ground in the trunk is good. Amazon product ASIN B00Z8XE1N6

Went out before work this morning and connected the battery cable back on the post and nothing at all. Went back to the trunk and gave it a good wiggle and turned it back and forth which made all my car stuff turn on so I am feeling confident that the inside of the cable end just needs a good cleaning and isn't getting a good connection.

I'll make sure to post up if that is what it is or not though

 

[StreetSpeed6]

This is non build related but anyone say the need a new block? Lol Been working at GM and dang there is a ton of blocks in here!!!! This is a small glimpse of just a few of them lol

 

[Easter Bunny]

Damn