StreetSpeed’s DD 500+ MS6 Build
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Well idk lol I assume these are the gm version of an ecoboost 4 cylinder. I would say it would man anything fits in anything you just have to want it!
Alright guys, so I am slowly accumulating everything I need for my pi setup! Last night I installed an AEM340 in tank fuel pump (part # 50-1220) and everything went fairly smooth. Took an hour or more to remove the plastic ring but once that was removed it was a cake walk. The filter and basket was filthy though and it needed this pretty badly.
Then, got it all back together only to realize I left out THIS little gem.
I called on the Mazdaspeed expert @Enki in shout at 1am and he tells me it is to keep the outlet o-ring seated so not to lose fuel pressure.
I was planning to fix it after I got home from work but my car said it was time when I was only halfway home lol I pulled over and fixed it right then and there and so far so good!
There are multiple great How-to's on this so I figured it was covered. My only advice mainly is to use a 12mm wrench to hit instead of a flathead screwdriver (if it is really stuck) as it helps disperse the energy and not break off tabs of the ring then use a screwdriver once broken loose.
Also, when removing the lower hose and removing fuel basket from tank try not to pop off the lock clip completely that is on the hose and drop it in the tank. I did but it luckily didn't go into the bottom and stayed right up top where I could reach in and get it.
Lastly, I bent the metal around the pump assembly with a screwdriver and hammer. I used a socket extension as well for the more blunt end when needed.
Hopefully I get my fuel line and a couple AN fittings soon and will continue to buy a little at a time until I have it all!
Then, got it all back together only to realize I left out THIS little gem.
I called on the Mazdaspeed expert @Enki in shout at 1am and he tells me it is to keep the outlet o-ring seated so not to lose fuel pressure.
I was planning to fix it after I got home from work but my car said it was time when I was only halfway home lol I pulled over and fixed it right then and there and so far so good!
There are multiple great How-to's on this so I figured it was covered. My only advice mainly is to use a 12mm wrench to hit instead of a flathead screwdriver (if it is really stuck) as it helps disperse the energy and not break off tabs of the ring then use a screwdriver once broken loose.
Also, when removing the lower hose and removing fuel basket from tank try not to pop off the lock clip completely that is on the hose and drop it in the tank. I did but it luckily didn't go into the bottom and stayed right up top where I could reach in and get it.
Lastly, I bent the metal around the pump assembly with a screwdriver and hammer. I used a socket extension as well for the more blunt end when needed.
Hopefully I get my fuel line and a couple AN fittings soon and will continue to buy a little at a time until I have it all!
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Yeah it is a build but also a dad daily so you know...haha
Should probably clean that all up while the seat is out honestly lol
Heck mine probably has half that just in my driver side! Lol I love my car I just can't help but drive it so it ends up a dirty girl a lot
Well I found my rear bumper solution I want.. Just can't afford more for an import charge than the actual product lol $377 for the rear diffuser thing but then $550 as of Sept. last year to import it... Dang it!!!
https://www.truspeedperformance.com...7-mazdaspeed-6-ducks-garden-rear-underspoiler
https://www.truspeedperformance.com...7-mazdaspeed-6-ducks-garden-rear-underspoiler
I needed a gauge cluster hood for my Eunos when I first got it. UK Miata parts had it for 50 USD but it was 150 extra to ship. Didn't have much of a choice there. I'm waiting to order replacement carpet next and I'm still trying to convince them to sell me a dashboard since mine has a small crack in it. I rather get those at the same time and pay 500-1000 shipping than 2 separate charges.
I have been having some odd battery type power issues where it just acts dead randomly. Turn the key on and lights start to come on and as you get to where it would turn the engine over everything goes 100% dead. Then, once you jump the car it acts like nothing happened until it randomly does it again in the future lol
I decided that my colored battery terminal connectors may be the issue as it was hard to even get connectivity through them to jump the car. I remember @Enki (I believe it was if I remember correctly) that said the paint they use can sometimes not be conductive which will cause issues. I have chose to try to get higher quality battery terminal connectors to see if this fixes my issue so I will update after a bit of use. I don't have the giant crimping tool for my 2 gauge wire so I have a washer smashing the wire down with the wing nut at the moment to hold them on. I will fix properly this but it will work for now.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...nc-marine-type-universal-terminals/ss01/08806
So far they seem to transfer power great and my car hasn't had any no start issues even after sitting for a few days (which was an issue before I did this easy swap).
I decided that my colored battery terminal connectors may be the issue as it was hard to even get connectivity through them to jump the car. I remember @Enki (I believe it was if I remember correctly) that said the paint they use can sometimes not be conductive which will cause issues. I have chose to try to get higher quality battery terminal connectors to see if this fixes my issue so I will update after a bit of use. I don't have the giant crimping tool for my 2 gauge wire so I have a washer smashing the wire down with the wing nut at the moment to hold them on. I will fix properly this but it will work for now.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...nc-marine-type-universal-terminals/ss01/08806
So far they seem to transfer power great and my car hasn't had any no start issues even after sitting for a few days (which was an issue before I did this easy swap).
Check your main battery grounds. If possible do a voltage drop test across the the cable. Anything over .02 volts during cranking indicates a bad cable. You'll have to disconnect your injectors so they aren't throwing off the test since they draw so much current.
Is there any good videos on performing this test? If so post a link of it pls
I'm pretty sure instead of unhooking the injectors you can just hold the gas pedal to the floor and it wont run the injectors. Also, I would probably either need someone to crank while I watched or get long alligator clips right?
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/how-to-diagnose-thread.12295/
I made this thread on how to do electrical testing. You need to make sure the injectors are disabled. Either take out their fuse or disconnect the main injector connector right above the HPFP.
You'll connect one multimeter lead to the top of the battery cable and the other lead to it's end. If you have clips to hold it in place or someone to crank the car for you then it's easier to watch the meter.
Before you do all that stuff give your grounds and cables a once over and make sure their bolts are tight or they aren't corroded/broken.
I made this thread on how to do electrical testing. You need to make sure the injectors are disabled. Either take out their fuse or disconnect the main injector connector right above the HPFP.
You'll connect one multimeter lead to the top of the battery cable and the other lead to it's end. If you have clips to hold it in place or someone to crank the car for you then it's easier to watch the meter.
Before you do all that stuff give your grounds and cables a once over and make sure their bolts are tight or they aren't corroded/broken.
Ok thanks man, I have all new cables as I ran it from the engine bay to my trunk. The connection point where I tied the cable from the engine bay running to my trunk isn't a permanent setup but has worked for a while now. I'll try it out and see what happens sometime soon.
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
If you are still using that CCA cable you likely do have voltage drop. I would not run anything smaller than a 2awg copper cable all the way. Amazon sells some nice welding cable that works well, it is pure copper and not the CCA garbage. This is the same stuff I used to redo all of my beefy wires when I built my motor. I have also used it for car stereos. You might be able to get away with a 15ft run.
Amazon product ASIN B00KD2756W
Amazon product ASIN B00KD2756W
While I was at O'Reillys I actually asked about it and they had 2 gauge awg wire for like $4.xx/ft but they had to order it as they only had 8ft. I will be buying this and fixing things up more legit soon hopefully. Car already feels much smoother than before.
**Small Update**
Alright so I don't have any big news but basically an update as to where I'm at with my car and what the somewhat near future holds.
I went ahead and got a new set of tires and got my car aligned while I was at it. Told them to get it as close as they could to -1.5° of camber in the front and rear and that I wanted .09ish degrees of toe in on each side up front (1/8" all together). My lug nuts were also worn out and had them replaced with some solid new chrome ones.
After all that I went to address a broken vband turbo adapter for my downpipe. While doing the reinstallation I touched the DP to the alternator stud and shorted the car which blew my main fuse. Had the pleasure of unbolting the factory main 120A fuse and installing a new one. That fixed my car I thought.....
Jumped in my car to drive it for the first time (in the dark) in 2 weeks and the headlight dims are now very faint and flicker but the brights work. Needless to say I am going to figure that one out soon enough.
I know this is a long post but bear with me lol I am planning to do some things to my car this winter which includes custom made motor mounts (with Damond Motorsports replacement inserts) for the side mounts as my rmm is already DM. I'm also planning to get something for Christmas for my car and need help deciding so help me out and vote guys!!!!! Much needed bigger fmic core OR an IWG to EWG conversion.
LASTLY..... I am planning at the beginning of next summer ish or possibly late winter/spring to purchase the CS twin disc organic clutch setup. It is made by X Clutches and is said to be rated for 800ft lb tq but is said to also have the feeling of stock. If I do this I will want to do the billet caps in my transfer case as well while it is out. If anyone has any advice or experience with this stuff just let me know!
Alright so I don't have any big news but basically an update as to where I'm at with my car and what the somewhat near future holds.
I went ahead and got a new set of tires and got my car aligned while I was at it. Told them to get it as close as they could to -1.5° of camber in the front and rear and that I wanted .09ish degrees of toe in on each side up front (1/8" all together). My lug nuts were also worn out and had them replaced with some solid new chrome ones.
After all that I went to address a broken vband turbo adapter for my downpipe. While doing the reinstallation I touched the DP to the alternator stud and shorted the car which blew my main fuse. Had the pleasure of unbolting the factory main 120A fuse and installing a new one. That fixed my car I thought.....
Jumped in my car to drive it for the first time (in the dark) in 2 weeks and the headlight dims are now very faint and flicker but the brights work. Needless to say I am going to figure that one out soon enough.
I know this is a long post but bear with me lol I am planning to do some things to my car this winter which includes custom made motor mounts (with Damond Motorsports replacement inserts) for the side mounts as my rmm is already DM. I'm also planning to get something for Christmas for my car and need help deciding so help me out and vote guys!!!!! Much needed bigger fmic core OR an IWG to EWG conversion.
LASTLY..... I am planning at the beginning of next summer ish or possibly late winter/spring to purchase the CS twin disc organic clutch setup. It is made by X Clutches and is said to be rated for 800ft lb tq but is said to also have the feeling of stock. If I do this I will want to do the billet caps in my transfer case as well while it is out. If anyone has any advice or experience with this stuff just let me know!
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Doing some more refresh on the speed. She's getting a new radiator along with fresh bolts to hold the condenser to the rad/ rad to front clip and crash bar. I might possibly fab a new custom fmic crash bar made by yours truly.
I'm sick of seeing the big ugly stock one and am feeling the itch to actually start applying my fabrication skills making my own car stuff. That being said, I also want it to be of help if I ever get in a wreck so it will be built fairly well. I already acquired some plate steel and some heavy angle iron pieces from work for this and my motor mount projects.
I might possibly make a how to on replacing the rad or at least a short post soon about the main things to know ahead of time when pulling it out. Anyway here is the new rad and I'll shut up now...
I'm sick of seeing the big ugly stock one and am feeling the itch to actually start applying my fabrication skills making my own car stuff. That being said, I also want it to be of help if I ever get in a wreck so it will be built fairly well. I already acquired some plate steel and some heavy angle iron pieces from work for this and my motor mount projects.
I might possibly make a how to on replacing the rad or at least a short post soon about the main things to know ahead of time when pulling it out. Anyway here is the new rad and I'll shut up now...
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