The Factory serviced 2nd life.

FactServed2nd

FactServed2nd

Gold Member
Okay so I have been buzzing around the forum for about half a year now. I work on my cars more than I post. Being as it is winter, and I need to recoup some funds after my MS6 wanted to see what I am made of so I will now start my build thread.

My car came to me from its original owner, in fantastic shape. Factory service record a mile long. Well, I had my brother buy it in Houston and I flew down to drive it back. I had a company change the oil in it and they put 4.5 quarts of 5W-20 in it. It got me the 8 hours back to my house then promptly spun a rod bearing. Said company bought me a remanned motor from Jegs with a 3 year warranty on it. Then the local dealership did a very poor job on the installation. I will be uploading pictures and plans for the car soon, even got some fresh dents from the dealership.

I am basically fully Cork Sport bolted, BNRs3, for now with some support from Damond and a circuit werks turbo back 3". Short version of the plans are a built PTO and then lightening the drive shaft before switching to a 2.5 bottom end. I also run Versatune and have a near full machine shop in my garage. I am disabled so any work I do is painfully slow, but I am raising funds for my stem cells, then I plan on going back into custom automotive instead of aerospace.
 
Thanks for the support. I guess I will elaborate on my plans for the speed. I have enough parts to install and enough done now that I can make some entertaining posts now until I get supplied for bigger parts of the build.

Suspension: For now, I am going to enjoy the last bit of life from this suspension. Having spent its entire life in Houston being owned by someone who cared it is in better shape than you imagine. Oklahoma roads will fix that. So, suspension is first on the list for the spring. I am going stock replacement shocks with maybe 1" leveling drop. I will replace all components with stock or more adjustment parts. I am on the fence about Whiteline front and back sway bars as of yet, my 8 year rebuild is where I will make everything rigid (I will be explaining later).

Interior: The interior is immaculate besides wear on the driver's seat. I am replacing all of the interior lights with led replacements. I only have to repair the driver's door latching module, the rear passenger window regulator, the tilt up screen, passenger door speaker and the interior is in full working function. In the 8th year rebuild in will go a Katskin interior, modified trim pieces, CF steering wheel, and an upgraded sound system, sound deadening, upgraded wiring.

Exterior: I have to fix the front air dam and ducting on the bumper, there are just a few dings other than that. I plan on painting the whole car a hard flop blue in the summer after I get my wife's Mini up and running. On the outside I will be keeping things looking mostly stock, I will probably be switching both the hood and decklid to CF and painting them. There have been a few ground effects sets that I have liked, however I like to keep things simple. I will be running two sets of wheels with two sets of tires. Eventually both sets will be powder coated or cerakoted to match all of the highlight pieces to my car. My winter tires will be on my stock wheels as they will be narrower than my summer touring tires.

Now to the meat and taters. Power: So, I am running Versa tune with a lifetime tune from Ryan at PD. I am studying tuning myself, but Imma trust him for now. Cork sport manifolds, BNRS3, big throttle body, GS ebcs, Spec II clutch, HPS hose kit, Circuit werks Divorced downpipe 3" turbo back exhaust. This is what I am driving around on, I am waiting on some 10AN pcv valves to come in and I am installing my exhaust scavenging PCV system along with my 6AN fuel lines to replace the hard plastic lines. By using weld in bungs and using the insert I can use my exhaust to create vacuum on my catch can. If plumbed properly my block can be under vacuum when operating above idle. I am keeping the tuning mild for right now trying to squeeze all the life out of this remanned engine. The time between now and my 8th year rebuild will be used to strengthen the surrounding subsystems. I will have as many of my lines as able switched to AN fitting to make any and all subframe drops easier. Upgraded PS lines and cooler, oil lines and cooler.
 
Cool to see you have put some thought in and want to keep the car alive. I am starting a rebuild, my car is due for a refresh as well. <<Here>> is my build. There are some other great threads in the <<MS6 build section>> and a few new people have recently picked the MS6 bug after a few relatively quiet years.
If you are happy with OEM struts and the spring rates are acceptable, but want to do under a 1" drop, consider clipping the OEM springs. I clipped a new pair of OEM rear coils to level out with Eibachs I have in the front. Eibach's rear coils sag, I wouldnt buy them but the car had them. One 360* loop of the top of the rear coils netted 3/4" drop. However be sure to consider how your other tire combinations will be affected by the drop. You might want to consider Bilstein B8 struts when lowering the car however with less than 1" B6 might be fine. They are monotube design and will give you a longer life unit.
I also have the whiteline rear bar but havent had much time to play with it. For street use, the front bar is adequate.
Why do you need to plumb exhaust scavenging? Are you experiencing oil issues?
Cheers man!
 
SyntheticAtmosphere said:
Why do you need to plumb exhaust scavenging? Are you experiencing oil issues?
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Don't we all experience oil issues? I am from a school old enough that if the crank case isn't under slight vacuum most of the time, you are leaving efficiency on the table. If I can prevent oil from my pcv from going through my intake with a little welding and some tubing, why not? Plus, there is loads of room right there for the bung and tube. I could run 2 bungs and have one pulling directly on the valve cover.
 
Forgot to upload the work I did on my cowl. I abraded the surface before self-etching it, on the inside away from the heat I put a few layers of rubber under coating to help with cabin noise. Then on the outside I went with high temp black and gold. The gold is where it is at for why you think it's there and it seemed to have helped my air temps. Next mod will be new injectors and the PCV system, and AN fuel line and maybe some vacuum system tidying.

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newest delivery. My tuning computer is running out of real-estate for stickers. Now I am looking for a Trans and PTO
 

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So build update. Front suspension replaced. Tcase replaced. Cannot tune right now because Ryan Left PD tuning and they no longer support versatune. Pics and updates to follow soon. Drives well, still on break in tune.
 
Loving that new color even if it is the wrong one lol. Any pics to share from the Tcase work? That's also on my to-do list after I finally get my 6 inspected.

I also use Versatune and Damond Motorsports has been great through the whole tuning process, just another option on the table for you.
 
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Malevolous said:
Loving that new color even if it is the wrong one lol. Any pics to share from the Tcase work? That's also on my to-do list after I finally get my 6 inspected.

I also use Versatune and Damond Motorsports has been great through the whole tuning process, just another option on the table for you.
Click to expand...
Yes, I have pictures of the process. I will post more pictures as soon as I get a moment to transfer them to the tuning laptop. I finally got my first tune after the break in tune Ryan sent me. Even my wife is pleased with the first tune and the car runs even better. If the delays in my return tunes is too long I will switch to Damond.
 
So, after much debate and desire for stereo from the wife, I still love listening to the engine, the best replacement for the Bose system is Power Bass 6.5" components for OE systems (2-Ohm's resistance). I tried running just the 6.5s and the Bose tweeters. It sounded horrible. Seeing as the tweeters receive the same signal as the 6.5s I tied the cross over to the main line and ran the new tweeters up front in the original position. The tweeters for the back I am currently playing with the mounting into the door panel. This sounds amazing. From what I gather the signal from the head unit is strong, and the Bose amp more or less divides the sound and cleans it, then the crossovers in the kit. I don't even have my panels on or my speaker socks installed yet and it sounds fantastic.
 
FactServed2nd said:
So, after much debate and desire for stereo from the wife, I still love listening to the engine, the best replacement for the Bose system is Power Bass 6.5" components for OE systems (2-Ohm's resistance). I tried running just the 6.5s and the Bose tweeters. It sounded horrible. Seeing as the tweeters receive the same signal as the 6.5s I tied the cross over to the main line and ran the new tweeters up front in the original position. The tweeters for the back I am currently playing with the mounting into the door panel. This sounds amazing. From what I gather the signal from the head unit is strong, and the Bose amp more or less divides the sound and cleans it, then the crossovers in the kit. I don't even have my panels on or my speaker socks installed yet and it sounds fantastic.
Click to expand...

The tweeters are in a weird spot facing sideways.. not really facing the driver..

Did you angle them a certain way to help fix this?

Congrats on the upgrade
 
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