Throttle Hesitation

Either that, or . . .

I actually know how to drive a stick without destroying the clutch.

I have also taught two of my girlfriends how to drive stick on this vehicle, starting at around 70k miles. They haven't managed to destroy the OEM clutch either.

I've only been driving a stick since probably longer than you've been alive but I do beat on my car, is fun. I built it to take the punishment I dish out.
 
Be nice boys.

OP's issue is obviously clutch related.

I went with the ACT 6 puck because it was pretty cheap at $800 shipped for the whole kit (I have the street flywheel) and can hold more power than the stock one. It's the last clutch this car will ever need. Should I throw a built motor in the car, or run out of friction material on my current disc, I will simply replace it and be on my way. So far it's been very DD friendly for an upgraded clutch. Chatters a little bit off the line, but otherwise it feels like a normal clutch, just grips way, way harder when you want it do.

My stock clutch had nothing obviously wrong with it when we pulled it. Some stock clutches seem to be able to hold a lot of power without slipping, others don't. I haven't figured out why that is. All I know is, I put a CBE on my car and 4 days later my clutch was starting to slip consistently from the added torque at higher RPM's on E85.

My opinion is that the stock pressure plate is the weak point in the stock design and the cause of most failures, although in my case we could not find anything obviously wrong with mine. Tons of stock clutches get removed with PP's that have outright failed or adjusted improperly over time leading to part of the FW/PP developing a wicked hot spot. One local to me had his stock pressure plate undergo this issue randomly after 125k miles and about 1/3 of his clutch disc melted from not releasing completely. The ACT PP is non-adjusting and doesn't have these issues.
 
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