Upcoming parts / service stuff questions

Icing has more to do with air pressure and humidity, less to do with temperature. Super cold days are far below dew point and the air is dry. Therefore when the pressure drops through a carb, or TB, there is no moisture to freeze. When the pressure drops like a carb or around a throttle plate, it causes the metal to loose heat to the low pressure air zone, if there is a high content of moisture, ice can form. I know about where @Awafrican lives, it's the dampness that makes his winters feel cold. If it was all about temperature, we would never be able to fly piston airplanes.

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Icing has more to do with air pressure and humidity, less to do with temperature. Super cold days are far below dew point and the air is dry. Therefore when the pressure drops through a carb, or TB, there is no moisture to freeze. When the pressure drops like a carb or around a throttle plate, it causes the metal to loose heat to the low pressure air zone, if there is a high content of moisture, ice can form. I know about where @Awafrican lives, it's the dampness that makes his winters feel cold. If it was all about temperature, we would never be able to fly piston airplanes.

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-30-40c is not damp in Manitoba I assure you, -10 yeah can be when I was in Ontario it was bad very damp on the river.
 
I thought you were still there, my bad.
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-30-40c is not damp in Manitoba I assure you, -10 yeah can be when I was in Ontario it was bad very damp on the river.
Freedom units por favor

Op where in Maryland are you I'm in Ellicott city? I have the Damon's ssp and can't see justifying the cost of doing a whole shifter replacement.

I have for my shifter diamond ssp, jbr bushings, stratified shifter extender,and ford unicorn jizz transmission fluid. At 110k miles I liberally sprayed silicone grease all over any moving part in the stock assembly and it is all great easy shifts and no missed shifts
 
Freedom units por favor

Op where in Maryland are you I'm in Ellicott city? I have the Damon's ssp and can't see justifying the cost of doing a whole shifter replacement.

I have for my shifter diamond ssp, jbr bushings, stratified shifter extender,and ford unicorn jizz transmission fluid. At 110k miles I liberally sprayed silicone grease all over any moving part in the stock assembly and it is all great easy shifts and no missed shifts
-22-40f
 
I thought you were fucking with me then realized -40 is actually equal
 
I live in Iowa where it gets to -30f sometimes "it's dumb" I have had no issues with the bypass or the TB sticking at all when driving it in the winter. I have had the TB coolant bypassed for 4+ years now and DD the car.
Did it make a difference in boost temps at all?
 
My jbr 3.5" silicone required ecu location change and from others on forum I found the small battery + ecu inside my solution. Nice that can return to stock. Some wire loom unwrapping of outer covering. Bonus for me a opportunity to see if any PO mods were done and buried. Careful fitment allows bat box cover too. Unwrap loom covering back to 1 to 3 loom junction and reposition to new ordination, then retape. Smaller battery 5% loss of CCA.
 

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Freedom units por favor

Op where in Maryland are you I'm in Ellicott city? I have the Damon's ssp and can't see justifying the cost of doing a whole shifter replacement.

I have for my shifter diamond ssp, jbr bushings, stratified shifter extender,and ford unicorn jizz transmission fluid. At 110k miles I liberally sprayed silicone grease all over any moving part in the stock assembly and it is all great easy shifts and no missed shifts

I'm in Pasadena. The SSP has made it so sometimes (very occasionally) shifting into first gear sort of stops before reaching fully 'in gear' and I have to go back to neutral, out/in w/ the clutch, and then it'll shift in. I haven't done bushings tbf, so that could be a part of it, but the theory of why the SSP's can be bad for your transmission somewhat makes sense to me. I'll see if I can find the video where these guys talk about the logic of it, but the short version is the slight angle change (because it's raised) can (over time) cause issues because of the slight change in engagement geometry.
 
I'm in Pasadena. The SSP has made it so sometimes (very occasionally) shifting into first gear sort of stops before reaching fully 'in gear' and I have to go back to neutral, out/in w/ the clutch, and then it'll shift in. I haven't done bushings tbf, so that could be a part of it, but the theory of why the SSP's can be bad for your transmission somewhat makes sense to me. I'll see if I can find the video where these guys talk about the logic of it, but the short version is the slight angle change (because it's raised) can (over time) cause issues because of the slight change in engagement geometry.
I have a DM ssp and it has given me zero issues and has always worked great. I used the factory shift weight and I have a custom shift knob from maisonvi's shift knobs that is probably 5" tall and has an aluminum insert. Also to note my car has 220k miles and the trans as far as I know too.
 
The shift plate makes no change to the geometry of the parts in the transmission. It only makes a change to the angle on the shifter cables
 
The shift plate makes no change to the geometry of the parts in the transmission. It only makes a change to the angle on the shifter cables
Yeah, I have stock shifter cables as well and am glad to not have had any issues with mine so far. They haven't ever popped off and they feel pretty smooth. Have wondered if the shifter bushings would make it feel nice and tight and new again though even though it isn't too bad as is.
 
The shift plate makes no change to the geometry of the parts in the transmission. It only makes a change to the angle on the shifter cables

I know it doesn't change anything in the transmission, but physically, the movement does very slightly alter the forces applied to the actual shifter plate. Is it enough to matter in a significant fashion? Probably not, but I didn't have any issues shifting into first before I installed it and now I do (occasionally). I'm honestly thinking the probably-worn-out bushings have more to do w/ that than the SSP, though, so once I buy a real short shifter and new bushings I'll probably remove the SSP to see if it helps. If not, it'll get reinstalled.
 
I know it doesn't change anything in the transmission, but physically, the movement does very slightly alter the forces applied to the actual shifter plate. Is it enough to matter in a significant fashion? Probably not, but I didn't have any issues shifting into first before I installed it and now I do (occasionally). I'm honestly thinking the probably-worn-out bushings have more to do w/ that than the SSP, though, so once I buy a real short shifter and new bushings I'll probably remove the SSP to see if it helps. If not, it'll get reinstalled.
Do you have a lot of play side to side while in a gear? Mine has a small amount but not what I would consider sloppy at all. What brand ssp do you have?
 
Do you have a lot of play side to side while in a gear? Mine has a small amount but not what I would consider sloppy at all. What brand ssp do you have?

A small amount, same - wouldn't call it sloppy but its got a little bit of wiggle room. I have the DM SSP. I bought theirs on a whim at the same time as the motor mounts so I honestly did zero research on any difference between brands of SSP between DM, CS, etc etc
 
A small amount, same - wouldn't call it sloppy but its got a little bit of wiggle room. I have the DM SSP. I bought theirs on a whim at the same time as the motor mounts so I honestly did zero research on any difference between brands of SSP between DM, CS, etc etc
Theirs is (from what I gathered) one of the best I think. This might sound silly but have you checked for clearance around the weight on the ssp? I think I had to flip mine or heard some people say they had to when they did their install. Just a thought
 
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