Well, some shit is going down. I am in the process of assembling PI, and just need to buy a Split Second Controller and decide who I want to tune with on this go-around. I am starting with a basic bitch returnless setup, piggybacking off of the stock fuel tank, but may add a return line later on this summer just to ease the initial cost outlay. I don't track the car and am only looking to land in the 450-500whp range, whatever I can squeeze out of this poor S4v2, so I'm not too concerned about using such a simplistic setup.
So far, I have dropped in the AEM 50-1215 upgraded itfp, swapped out my methanol bunged Damond ST spacer for the PI version using a set of Bosch 630cc injectors (the interwebs tell me they're stock to a recent iteration of the Mustang GT350), installed an Eric Yarbrough wire tuck with integrated SS plug, and just had all of my fittings and hose delivered. I've scored a few deals on some of these pieces, sold a spare set of wheels to fund the expenditure, and am doing this in as budget-friendly of a manner as I can. I will also have the existing CoolingMist wmi kit up for sale once I've removed it from the car,
in case anyone is interested in helping me offset more of the cost.
Here's a list of what I'm using to plumb the system, in addition to braided stainless PTFE hose and two -6AN PTFE fittings from siliconeintakes.com. My intent is to retain the stock feed line from firewall and split it at the hpfp, with a tee running to the auxiliary rail. We'll see if the stock line ends up having sufficient slack and can be maneuvered to allow everything to fit and connect up; if not, I suppose I'll be doing a full custom feed line. All told, I'm currently sitting at about $150 shipped for the hose, fittings, fuel pressure gauge and AN wrenches.
The hardware arrived yesterday and I threw a couple of the fittings onto the rail just to play around a little bit and get it started; I need to assemble the hose and run the hpfp/feed line split but will hold off on doing that until I'm ready to actually get the system spraying.
In the meantime, in the interests of my budget-friendly intent, IF ANYONE IS AWARE OF A GOOD DEAL ON A SPLIT SECOND CONTROLLER PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
Aside from PI, the other big excitement this spring was a battery voltage issue. Out of nowhere, I started dropping charge and having to jump start the car. I replaced the battery, thinking that the combination of hot Texas summers followed by a brutally cold Wisconsin winter had caused a cell or two to drop, but the issue persisted. Did a bit more exploration and found that the positive lead from the alternator seemed to have seen better days.
I decided to do some surgery to refresh the line and, after chopping the stock cable off and stripping it back, was pretty certain I had indeed found the problem.
My theory is that the wire corroded and deteriorated to the point that it could no longer keep up with current demand, and subsequently overheated and burned up thus exasperating the situation. This would have prevented the alternator from charging the battery and resulted in having to jump start it; it would also explain why a fresh battery, although the one I replaced was also barely more than a year old, did nothing -- the battery itself was never the issue.
My solution was to eliminate the stock fusible connection altogether and redo the last foot or so of wiring to the positive terminal. I ran the two oem lines from the alternator and fuse box into a distribution block, then fed them together into a beefier section of cable with a 150amp fuse and back to the battery terminal. It ain't pretty, but two months on and so far so good! In the end, it was a cheap fix with parts off Amazon and I wish I'd have caught the condition of the stock cable prior to dropping $100+ on a new battery. Now that I'm confident it was the solution, I may try to pretty it up a bit in the future, but this also definitely ain't a showcar so....meh?
Next up on the docket is diagnosing a stutter that happens when I go WOT, determining if it's spark blowout or fuel cut or whatever, then I need to get working on a tune and buy an SS to get PI formally up and running.