VoodooShark's V2 Buttz Build
- Thread starter VoodooJef
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Oh hey, so here's a note. When ordering a new head unit, make damn sure it actually has the correct fucking input for your oem wiring harness/steering wheel control adapter. Turns out the new Pioneer units seemingly only include an input for a 4-pin harness like the iDataLink adapters use. I, on the other hand, went with the PAC RadioPro adapter (simpler wiring, integrated oem harness clip, cheaper price), which uses a 3.5mm jack input. So the Pioneer will be heading back to Amazon, and I now have a Kenwood unit on order that is confirmed via online quick guide/install manuals to have BOTH types of adapter inputs and ought to work with the PAC.
Side rage: Crutchfield told me to buy this exact PAC adapter for the specific Pioneer unit; and the recommended adapter from SonicElectronix (Scosche brand) for the same unit also only has a 3.5mm output. So they both were deadass wrong.
Side rage: Crutchfield told me to buy this exact PAC adapter for the specific Pioneer unit; and the recommended adapter from SonicElectronix (Scosche brand) for the same unit also only has a 3.5mm output. So they both were deadass wrong.
damn that's surprising that crutchfield made a mistake like that
You're telling me. I spent an hour last night scouring the back of that unit and researching online to see wtf was up, and ended up finding that Pioneer's documentation (for that particular head unit, at least) specifically references being iDataLink compatible rather than generically SWC compatible. They must have some sort of exclusivity agreement, I guess, but I couldn't believe Crutchfield made that error.
@JohnnyTightlips Strikes Again. He recently recommended doing an oem pmm with aftermarket rmm/tmm to soften NVH for daily driver duty, so this weekend I finally swapped in the DM tmm I'd pulled from my old car and at the same time stocked out the pmm. Wow. The difference is incredible. So far I feel no adverse effects of the softer side mount --likely because I simply moved the stiffness to the other side-- in fact, shifting is far smoother with the tmm (duh), and maybe it's because I moved around the ss clutch line a little bit while I was in there but clutch engagement (ACT 6) actually also feels much smoother. The benefit is that cabin noise through the revband is VASTLY reduced, as are low rpm vibrations and subsequently the rattles they were causing. It is a much more comfortable spot to be in while driving and sitting in traffic, now. We'll see if the pmm feels too wimpy once PI is turned on and tuned up but I think this combination is the ticket for compromise between performance and DD comfort. My stock pmm was blown and riding like shit I first installed the DM, so I guess I never realized just how much noise and vibes it had added. Also running the CS Stage 2 rmm, for reference.
Kenwood hu is expected to arrive tomorrow, so we'll have a report on that once I get it installed, as well.
Kenwood hu is expected to arrive tomorrow, so we'll have a report on that once I get it installed, as well.
pussy
JohnnyTightlips
Motorhead
I have a front lower tie bar. TBH, I think the effect is placebo, at best; or maybe only effective on a more stockish spring/strut setup. When I put it on my old car (Konis and stock springs at the time), I swore I felt a difference; when I put it on the new car after months of driving without it (H&R coilovers), I didn't notice anything.
By the way, this is the wiring diagram I used to bypass the oem Bose amp, which I just realized I hadn't posted earlier. I simply ran RCAs from the head unit for signal, then spliced the output wires and connected them to my aftermarket amp. You could also just unplug the Bose and leave the harnesses alone if you wanted to go through the trouble of running new lines from your replacement amp to the speakers, but that's obviously a lot more work.
Update time: The Kenwood is awesome. The sound quality is so far and above what the Eonon has to offer. I miss the oem look and capability to run Torque directly on the hu, but that's it. The equalizer, crossover, studio effect etc are far more robust and effective. Totally worth the swap and there isn't much more to say than that.
In other news, I finally had weather nice enough to wire in the Split Second controller this weekend. I think everything is working properly (judging by the fact that it was bogging at idle on initial startup -- turns out the controller doesn't come blank of maps, as I assumed, but rather with a basemap that commands fuel at MAF voltage > 1), but we'll find out once I get a new map from Ryan. I hit him up on Sunday and am just waiting his word back, now. If all goes according to plan, shit's gonna get real and we'll see what an S4v2 can do at full tilt.
Also, friendly reminder to remember to check your cabin air filters. Ew.
In other news, I finally had weather nice enough to wire in the Split Second controller this weekend. I think everything is working properly (judging by the fact that it was bogging at idle on initial startup -- turns out the controller doesn't come blank of maps, as I assumed, but rather with a basemap that commands fuel at MAF voltage > 1), but we'll find out once I get a new map from Ryan. I hit him up on Sunday and am just waiting his word back, now. If all goes according to plan, shit's gonna get real and we'll see what an S4v2 can do at full tilt.
Also, friendly reminder to remember to check your cabin air filters. Ew.
VoodooSharksMobile got a brake job today. Hawk HPS 5.0 and fresh blanks up front. Rear HPS still have plenty of life left so not doing those yet. Could say the fronts were due, though...
My brakes have honestly lasted forever. I don’t know what kind are on there but would venture to say that it may be second to last set or last set I will probably have to buy for mine lol I got the car at 170k miles or so and am almost at 209k and they are just now getting close to needing replaced. I’m very impressed with them for what they are and being old with blanks and not drilled or slotted rotors.
Wotbox is in. Working, but having an issue with the software where it won't let me change the no-lift shift time setting from 125ms. I change it, hit Write, get the 'programming successful' prompt, hit OK, then a second or two later the value pops back to 125. Every other setting I've tried sticks after writing. Weird.
Tune is just about done; one of the last tuna updates was "we can push it if you want to or leave it in a comfortable spot"....you know what I chose. Intention is to hit a dyno when all is said and done just to sate my curiosity. I did keep even in a 40ish roll with a buddy's MS6, running an S5 at 31psi on wmi, so whatever that's worth after factoring in that we're both n00b racers...or at least I am.
Tune is just about done; one of the last tuna updates was "we can push it if you want to or leave it in a comfortable spot"....you know what I chose. Intention is to hit a dyno when all is said and done just to sate my curiosity. I did keep even in a 40ish roll with a buddy's MS6, running an S5 at 31psi on wmi, so whatever that's worth after factoring in that we're both n00b racers...or at least I am.
Well, this maybe explains the weird steering feeling I've been noticing. Thought it was a worn tophat until I got things apart to find....this. Just ordered a set of Bilstein B14s to throw on.
What exactly was the weird steering feeling again?
Suspension work today. Got the Bilstein coilovers in on all four corners, along with new front top hats and endlinks. Immediate impressions are that it's smoother over the road, and flatter through the corners, than the H&R coilover kit was (though to be fair, this set was pretty full manked and looks to have had many miles of usage). Next up ought to be an alignment but we'll see how quickly I can arrange that
I had also grabbed new rear end links, but the pair that's on there is well fused to the JBR rsb (luckily they came loose from the subframe so I could swap the rear springs). In classic jaybeebs fashion, the powdercoat on the bar is in an atrocious state, as are the collars that go on the bar either side of the bushings. The entire lot is due for freshening up and replacement, so that'll be added to the list of near-future projects when I have time to angle grind the links off and sand down/repaint the bar.
I had also grabbed new rear end links, but the pair that's on there is well fused to the JBR rsb (luckily they came loose from the subframe so I could swap the rear springs). In classic jaybeebs fashion, the powdercoat on the bar is in an atrocious state, as are the collars that go on the bar either side of the bushings. The entire lot is due for freshening up and replacement, so that'll be added to the list of near-future projects when I have time to angle grind the links off and sand down/repaint the bar.
The gist is, at highway speed and through corners the steering would feel like it was almost "snapping" in and out. Like, through a sweeping bend and no change in steering wheel angle, the car suddenly seems to grab traction harder and steers more sharply into the turn, then just pops back off. As if a piece if hardware was loose and shifting under lateral load. I didn't notice anything on the drive home from my folks' garage but it was a short and light enough drive to not tell me anything other than it just didn't happen that time. Hopefully this suspension do-up and a good alignment will be all I need.
Oh ok well sounds similar to what I have experienced in my car too. Seems to also be much more noticeable in wet conditions or snow. I just can’t feel the road like I used to be able to either. Glad you’re getting it lined out tho man keep it up!
felt cute might delete
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