Vvt question
- Thread starter Kenjunk
- Start date
- Watchers 3
First off, welcome and introduce yourself in the 'New Member' section
Second off, your vvt will have play in it but if you set cylinder 1 to TDC then it should be tight. If you check the underside of the valve cover it will show if there are any wear marks from it being loose and slapping. Good luck!Kenjunk
Greenie Member
First off, welcome and introduce yourself in the 'New Member' section
Is this to much play with the timing chain off.
Thanks
Last edited by a moderator:
You might be rotating the VVT actuator through its adjustment movement. Its not about "play" when disassembled but if you are into the front of the engine because the VVT needs repaired (rattle on startup) the actuator should possibly on your replacement list. Also, generally the chain is replaced because the VVT is being addressed, chains usually dont get replaced like a timing belt.
<This> is probably our best resource for VVT replacement.
Lots of great VVT info <here> too.
If you told us a bit about your car and your plans we could better understand what you are working on.
<This> is probably our best resource for VVT replacement.
Lots of great VVT info <here> too.
If you told us a bit about your car and your plans we could better understand what you are working on.
Kenjunk
Greenie Member
I have a 2007 mazdaspeed 3 and did a motor replacement on the car with a gen2 2013 motor with a about 160000kms on the engine (100000 miles). The engine started up well after the install then after the install , the only problem that I had was a jerking when under load. My access port was pointing me in the direction of a over boosting situation so I changed the boost solenoid. After rhe repair took the car on the highway and it started to tick like crazy . Got the car home pulled of the valve cover and the chain was very loose and had 3 codes p2088, p0091,p0234. So in the process of changing the chain tensioner, chain then checked the Vvt and noticed the movement on the actuator and don’t know if there should be that my movement before I put everything back together. I also removed the spark plugs the number 1 is fouled the other three are fine, they were brand new when I replaced the engine.
Thanks again for all the advice.
Thanks again for all the advice.
So hopefully you join as a member with the help you're receiving lol That actuator has play so that is normal. I would suggest you replace everything in the timing area if it is apart.
I had to pull mine apart a while back for a timing noise I kept hearing and replaced mine. You don't want to spend the money fixing it twice so just do it all and do it right the first time...ask me how I know lol
Honestly the vvt actuator sprocket isn't supposed to be tight until you install the chain and then you tighten both cam sprockets. That is how you tighten your timing chain all the way while the cams are set with the timing plate in place on them.
Are you replacing the friction washers? That is a MUST if doing this job but I would assume you know this if you're that deep into the job.
Kenjunk
Greenie Member
I was not sure if I had to loosen the cam sprocket and the Vvt while putting on the new chain. But I did order new washers just in case. My plan was to replace the tensioner and chain, not touching the cam sprockets. The guides look good same as the oil pump Sprocket and chain. do I need to change the cam sprocket and oil pump sprocket or can those be reused, the look clean.
Thanks
Only replace the sprockets if they are sharp on the teeth. Of they are still rounded then they aren't worn out. I didn't replace my sprockets but definitely replaced my vvt actuator. I have heard of people replacing the timing chain and not loosening the cam sprockets but I personally think it is not good practice as you can't get the chain as tight as you could if they were loosened. I would at the very least replace timing chain, vvt actuator, timing chain tensioner, friction washers, and new cam+crank bolts.
Similar threads
