Weird rich wot issue

Haedenjames

Haedenjames

Greenie N00B Member
So this is gonna be hard to explain but I’ll give it a shot. I have a 2006 mazdaspeed 6 with 120,000 miles. Mods are cs sri, injector seals, tr8 tread stone fmic, downpipe, hpfp, ap in the process of protune, one gallon of e85 15 gallons 91. The problem I’m having is when I go wot after I shift say from 2nd to 3rd and continue wot my afr goes to the lowest like 8.60 and holds. Here’s where it gets weird if I roll into it afrs are perfect. Car feels amazing only time it’s off is after a shift it stutters when the afr is so low but almost immediately recovers and feels ok. Getting no knock And compression and leak down tests Came back good along with boost leak test. Also I’m loosing a good amount of oil not from a leak it may be unrelated but I’d figure I’d add it in here. I attached some logs. I’m thinking something’s up with the maf sensor but don’t know. Didn’t have these issues b4 Emix but also was only boosting like 13 psi before and now I’m boosting 20.
 

Attachments

Update on the car. I was driving and saw that at one point my hpfp pressure was in the 200s. So I tested the relief valve by turning the car off and seeing what the hpfp pressure does. It made it all the way to 1028 then started dropping. From what Iv read that’s the relief valve but the weird thing is at wot I’m having rich issues and it doesn’t explain the 0 volts for the fuel rail pressure sensor. Any thoughts?
 
The computer could be doing all sorts of things to try and keep from blowing the motor. You need to replace the relief valve before you do anything else
 
I swapped in a friends relief valve and still no fix. This is really odd my fuel trims are positive yet I’m running rich. Also what are you’re volts on hpfp sensor? Mine are 0 all the time
Easter Bunny said:
The computer could be doing all sorts of things to try and keep from blowing the motor. You need to replace the relief valve before you do anything else
Click to expand...
 
Just got a p0103 maf sensor input High. Hoping it is related and not a separate issue. Swapped in a friends maf no fix. Does anyone know if there is a fuse I can check before I go digging Into wires. Engine bar 1?
 
In case you needed the wiring diagrams.
No one fuse for the sensor, the three for the PCM would be a good first check.
The blue engine wiring loom is shown for double checking for cuts, rubbing wiring, breakage.
Engine Bar 1 feeds everything, Bar 2 PCM only so unless everything (no engine run), Bar 3 is a possibility.Motor Loom.png PCM map.png PCM1.png PCM2.png PCM3.png
 
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It was unrelated I think I got some wires wet so I taped it up nice and good but the rich issue persists. I captured a log rolling into wot Where afrs are on point then I do an instant wot 3rd and 4th and afrs are way rich. I also started monitoring everything to do with fuel and injectors. Could someone help me figure out what I’m missing in these logs?
 

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Problem solved. My air straitener from the corksport maf housing somehow came unglued and was just rattling around inside my air filter. Removed it and bam good to go.
 
I'd get that warrantied they're good things for MAF reading. Glad it's "fixed" edit: or atleast glue it back in place but this is the 2nd CS air straighteners coming off recently that I'm aware of so they should really be made aware.
 
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Same question, did straightener get reinstalled?
CorkSport did change out this early all Aluminum for the injection molded model. Improvements? Mine was the early aluminum, machined surfaces with a plastic basket shaped straightener. Installed, removed many times while bringing motor back from the dead. While sitting on bench straightener popped out!! Found the assembly cement had hardly bonded the plastic basket to aluminum.. Bad engineering since how would that last in under-hood environment? Crazy... Used a good bonding cement-- 3m body trim bonding cement.. (Gorilla snot) upon reassembling. That straightener is Needed for the airflow from CS shape maf housing to get laminar flow through maf sensor.
 
I tried to gorilla glue it back in but it didn’t really work so i just removed it. Seems to be running pretty good cs said they would replace it so I might call them back and have them do it. Cs also said they use gasket maker to “glue” it in. Erik at drama tuned said I don’t need it tho.
 
Thank you for that. I actually think I did the exact same thing. Looking back I realized it was dark gray, and I had a open tube of gasket maker I used for timing cover. Nice to know from CS I may have used something correct.
 
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