Welcome to my shit show: car won't start

P

Patrick Martz

Greenie N00B Member
So I built the motor last year. Took the car to the Dragon for ENM. then the turbo shit the bed in Cincinnati ohio on my way home. I bring the car back home and it sits all last year and this winter while I get the money to replace the turbo.
I replace a lot of parts and they are as follows:
Pte gen2 6266
Dcr exhaust mani
JMF intake mani
HTP hot side
Custom downpipe
Move battery to hatch (Optima redtop)
Metal ecu bracket
6th port
Twin disk clutch
Add 2 vented occ's
Add dm pcv plate
Dw300c in tank fuel pump
Racing seats and roll bar
Deleted A/C
Synapse BOV
Custom 2.5" cold side

So to present day I just got finished with the car. Putting everything on wiring it up and getting it to the point where it's safe to start. But it just turns over. Won't fire. I have fuel. It has 680 psi of fuel pressure with KOEO. And the spark plugs smell like fuel. I've checked all fuses relating to spark and they are all good. I've checked all the connections of the 6th port trigger wires on the coilpacks and they are still connected well I put dielectric grease on all the spark plugs to get a good connection. I've also reflashed the start up map and still nothing. All my grounds are good.
She turns over fast enough to start up and she sounds like she is going to but just doesn't. I also have no CEL's Amy help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.

I'll add the picture of the ecu bracket I mentioned above. It was not insulated from the ecu at all. But this has been debated on if it needs to be or not. So I took the ecu off this bracket for the time being but it has not helped anything.
edb80ea979f21253045a9b5f45dcdb04.jpg




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Not sure how long you tried for, but when I cleaned my valves and put in new injectors, I had to crank the car for like 30 seconds before it would start. Had all the same conditions I think otherwise.

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I've been trying for a week now. I turned her over for 10 seconds a piece today about 15 to 20 times with different trouble shooting tries.

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Anecdotal, but when I had the same issue after an engine build, it was because of a tiny (~22ga) ground wire on the bracket over the intake cam love for the HPFP.

Look at that ground, and any other one you can find.
 
silvapain said:
Anecdotal, but when I had the same issue after an engine build, it was because of a tiny (~22ga) ground wire on the bracket over the intake cam love for the HPFP.

Look at that ground, and any other one you can find.
Click to expand...
Yes that one I stupidly attached to my bottom right corner of my jmf but then realized that's a bad group spot as it's not touching the head because of the thermal insulated gasket. So just for shits and giggles I just extended it long enough to bolt to an upper fender bolt. Just to make sure its a good connection. But I checked those today too. Just to list them so I know I got them all.
-Two on the bracket on the front of the Trans.
-Two on the top of the trans
One on the passenger mount to the body
-The one on top of the cam part of the hpfp
-Then the battery one that is in the stock location next to the fender on the driver side

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IT'S ALIVE! so it was my own stupid fault. I forgot to zero out the fueling tables in the r4 software for the 6th port. So I killed power to the SS controller and she started right up after a little bit of cranking.

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Now just have to figure out why she is running at almost 20 afr at idle.

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