What did you do to your ride today

Had to replace my slave cylinder today because the bastard sprung a leak while I was driving around. Had to shift without the clutch which was fun, especially when I had to stop at lights and shut her down so I could put it in 1st. Then used the starter to move it and turn it on lol. Had to transfer that little o ring over from the old slave as the new one didn't have it.

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OEM mazda only lasted 30k miles from when I changed it last when I did my clutch at 130k, and I'm currently sitting at 161k miles. Installed another OEM mazda slave and hoping this wasn't built on a Friday.
 
541481E9-3912-4914-B4A8-E648B1408B07.jpeg 45C007E5-F460-49AC-B396-BECAA8F63663.jpeg Quick Clay bar, compound, and polish. A little bummed the paint is faded and won’t be getting rid of the old emblem shadowing. Doesn’t inspire much confidence in removing the side moldings but I’m happy the paint brightened up a bit!
 
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What is your pad and polish combination, what brand polisher?
After a few details on my old 07 ms3(when I use to have it, I think it was about 8yrs old at that point). I pulled the side moldings off. Polished it up and waxed it and it looked like they were never there.

When I detailed mine I had amazing results using menzerna products, 400, 2500, and the 3500 polishes. Also used the 400 with a yellow pad if needed. 2500 with orang and the 3500 with a green polishing pad CCS are the pads I usually use( 5.5 and 6"). Used power lock sealant and topped with nice wax after that. I also recently did this on my truck when I removed the f150 sticky badge off the tail gate. Looks all good with no yellowing outline. Did not need to use the 400 though.
 
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Orangatang said:
What is your pad and polish combination, what brand polisher?
After a few details on my old 07 ms3(when I use to have it, I think it was about 8yrs old at that point). I pulled the side moldings off. Polished it up and waxed it and it looked like they were never there.

When I detailed mine I had amazing results using menzerna products, 400, 2500, and the 3500 polishes. Also used the 400 with a yellow pad if needed. 2500 with orang and the 3500 with a green polishing pad CCS are the pads I usually use( 5.5 and 6"). Used power lock sealant and topped with nice wax after that. I also recently did this on my truck when I removed the f150 sticky badge off the tail gate. Looks all good with no yellowing outline. Did not need to use the 400 though.
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I used the chemical guys v32 compound with their orange cutting pad followed by the v38 polish with their white finishing pad. I have a torq random orbital polisher. Before I got this car in 2015 it spent most of its life in Sacramento California, and I believe the previous owner didn’t keep it in the garage. It stays pretty hot there throughout the year so I imagine the paint is just faded. I’ll check out menzerna! I’ll be taking another crack at it and trying some other products and pads, or attempting wet sanding.

The roof and hood have a good amount of oxidation and missing clear coat, so I already know I’ll be either re-painting or wrapping it at some point. The paint on the spoiler has been long gone for years haha.
 
I have not used the v36 and 38 in a long time. I think the only time I used it was when it first came out. The hard thing with detailing I think is finding a product line that works well for you and with you. For example a lot of people really like meguiars m105 and 205. For me I a have never liked using them and always found myself fighting the product trough compounding and polishing.
I have used Menzerna a lot on all sorts of vehicle makes and for me it great. I did try the Menzerna 1000 instead of the 400 and I did not like the 1000, it was to dry and I had to add lubricity to the pad to make the compound manageable for me.

If you like detailing check out detailersdomain mystery box when its up. I have found new products that I really like through it. Really nice products. PM me if you want.

Sorry for getting off thread topic.
 
Replaced Engine oil at 3100 mile interval with Motul 10w 60 as recommended by my Turbo installer as well as the Agents who sell them, also replaced oil filter and Spark plugs.
I know the oil is a bit "thick" and just take a bit more care with warm up before giving it the beans.
Can say that the used oil definitely feels more oily to the touch after the switch from 5 w 40.
Hoping that the greatly improved sheer strength helps protect bearings etc better.
 
Lazza151 said:
Replaced Engine oil at 3100 mile interval with Motul 10w 60 as recommended by my Turbo installer as well as the Agents who sell them, also replaced oil filter and Spark plugs.
I know the oil is a bit "thick" and just take a bit more care with warm up before giving it the beans.
Can say that the used oil definitely feels more oily to the touch after the switch from 5 w 40.
Hoping that the greatly improved sheer strength helps protect bearings etc better.
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Have you actually done any used oil analysis on the 5w40? Is this an OEM motor or are you built? How are you using the car?
 
Mtnbker3531 said:
Have you actually done any used oil analysis on the 5w40? Is this an OEM motor or are you built? How are you using the car?
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Motor is not built, has 105 000 miles on. Unfortunately there is no oil analysis available here.
Climate here is warm with summer temps regularly over 93.f
I was a bit sceptical about the change recommended by my builder who said that he had good results with it for turbo ( Pulsar bearing turbo) longevity on various cars.
I even called agents selling these specific turbos and they recommended 10w60 Valvoline or Motul for my car.
Have done just over 9000 miles and 3 oil changes since new turbo was installed.
Car is a daily driver which I also take on longer trips every few weeks to burn off any fuel dilution etc.
 
Lazza151 said:
Motor is not built, has 105 000 miles on. Unfortunately there is no oil analysis available here.
Climate here is warm with summer temps regularly over 93.f
I was a bit sceptical about the change recommended by my builder who said that he had good results with it for turbo ( Pulsar bearing turbo) longevity on various cars.
I even called agents selling these specific turbos and they recommended 10w60 Valvoline or Motul for my car.
Have done just over 9000 miles and 3 oil changes since new turbo was installed.
Car is a daily driver which I also take on longer trips every few weeks to burn off any fuel dilution etc.
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There is a thread here about best oils for this motor. That oil is a bit outside the range of what is typically used in this motor. I'm definitely not an oil expert but I've done my fair share of research in selecting oil for my built motor.

This motor needs an oil that has a robust additive package that addresses LSPI. API SP and ILSAC GF 6A I believe are the most up to date standards regarding oils that meet that requirement.

The other thing that's a bit of a concern is the fact you are on an OEM motor. Mazda engineered that motor with certain clearances and around a specified lubrication requirement hence the 5w30 recommended by OEM. Yes people run heavier oils depending on setup and based on used oil analysis as well as intended use.

At the end of the day all I'm trying to say is you may want to reconsider your choice of oil. You would probably be better served by a different oil and if you want to be overly paranoid you can just increase your oil change interval.

Just as important as a good oil is a good filter!

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/best-engine-oil-all-mod-levels.7931/

Also if you want to nerd out and possibly drive yourself nuts researching oil or filters this place is great

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
 
Got my LUK clutch/DMF combo replaced last week with an SBC Stage 2 Endurance setup. Currently just trying to get break-in done. 198 miles of city driving done, 300 more miles to go, argh...
 
Attended to an overdue leak by the power steering fluid reservoir. Didn't feel the need to spend $70 and had some spare hose laying around soooo.....ms3steeringhose.jpg
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....no leaks! Fluid needs changed though.
 
This weekend she got fresh oil and summer shoes put on! I miss driving the speed with summer rubber such a better driving experience, also rolled through 82.6k miles probably time to start thinking about a timing job
 
Awafrican said:
Someone was special when they mounted it
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I should have checked before I left. At least it was only one. The guy that pulled it in left and they didn’t have anyone else that drives a manual so I had to back it off lift. Guess I’ll be heading back tomorrow.
 
Brought tears to my eyes.. My usual owner of tire shop in our closest small town always took care of me, great BS talker too. Well he had his 17 year old son use 1/2" drive battery torque wrench reinstall wheel lugs. Sadly I was BSing with owner, and drove off "satisfied with the job"
Torque check after a few miles and low and behold found 3 out of 4 wheels lugs at 225 ft lb break loose force. Was thinking bad thoughts on that discovery.
Fast forward 5 years and I needed tpms valve stems, stock rims and snow/slush/deicer = slight leakages. Definitely just took wheels in, I do learn a little at times:)
Same guy (yes compound my errors at times) has his new very young employee replace 4 stems, breaking a tpms and replaced it no charge. I noticed no rim/tire registration marks for realignment..asked many times so you reblanced right? you did remount in same spot? yes was the mumbled answer..
Found after looking closely one was backwards too, then noticed difference tires on different rims!! So back I go and get that taken care of, again I asked....you balanced all 4 correct? mumbles again yes...
Test drive and nope definitely unbalanced on one or two. Finally learned my lesson and went to my other tire guy, his tire machine is old so doesn't like low profile tire/rim combo's..Finally balanced done right.
 
I feel everyone's pain in here something so simple but the lack of attention to detail makes a HUGE difference. I found a shop near me that has a touch less machine so that's who I use since I had my wheel powder coated. I don't trust the 19 year old goons at Discount!
 
Swapped out a leaky injector over the weekend. Cylinder 4 was leaking when commanded off, STFT's would hover around -25% and she'd stumble at/off idle. Local had a serviced and cleaned one ready to go. Popped on the GB seals and was all set.

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While I was in there I replaced the PCV lock collar, PCV hose, thermostat, serp belt, and necessary gaskets. The mahle stuff is great. Their thermostat looked pretty solid too. So far, all is going well at 181k miles. image000000.jpg IMG_20250214_140101460_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140109835_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140130428_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140147076_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140213180_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140339417_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140354527_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_140409120_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_141118314_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_143201520_HDR.jpg IMG_20250214_143207914_HDR.jpg
 
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