What did you do to your ride today

Attempted to install a gfb respons. The adapter plate in using has a sizeable o-ring that contacts he valve where the Allen bolts are causing a leak. Threw in the gfb gasket, still leaked, threw in rtv... still leaks but only from 20 psi or so. Threw the forge back in, no issues.
What kind of GFB respons bov did you get? Why do need to use an adapter plate for it? I thought they fit the stock flange just fine?
 
This always makes me laugh, I think about it every day when I walk into work and look at the generator status displays.

Each of our units produces 1.21GW electric.

Maybe I should try to hit 88 in the parking lot, for science.

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Guaranteed that's by design on purpose
 
What kind of GFB respons bov did you get? Why do need to use an adapter plate for it? I thought they fit the stock flange just fine?
They do. I don't have a stock flange. I'm using a type s t-pipe with an adapter. I have a dm FoST intake manifold.

I'm just copying neganox now.

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Installed Whiteline Anti-lift kit today. Man, what a pain in the ass.

Also bled my brakes just to flush in some new fluid since it has been a couple years since the car got some fresh fluid.
 
CS injector seals and valve cleaning yesterday. What a fucking ordeal.

PSA: if you manually turn the crank to close a new set of valves so you can soak them, make sure you finish the crank rotation when you're done so the gap in teeth match up to the sensor that sits just to the rear of crank. OTHERWISE YOUR SHIT WON'T EVEN TRY TO START AND YOU'LL WASTE FOUR HOURS OF PAIN, PANIC AND MISERY DISASSEMBLING EVERYTHING TO THE FUEL RAIL TO CHECK CONNECTIONS. Ask me how I know. :(
 
CS injector seals and valve cleaning yesterday. What a fucking ordeal.

PSA: if you manually turn the crank to close a new set of valves so you can soak them, make sure you finish the crank rotation when you're done so the gap in teeth match up to the sensor that sits just to the rear of crank. OTHERWISE YOUR SHIT WON'T EVEN TRY TO START AND YOU'LL WASTE FOUR HOURS OF PAIN, PANIC AND MISERY DISASSEMBLING EVERYTHING TO THE FUEL RAIL TO CHECK CONNECTIONS. Ask me how I know. :(
Did you have a friend that it happened to?

Crapatalk, it sucks for free!
 
I was about ready to kill myself when @OhSixMS6 (I hope that's his username here, like it is on MSF) had the crucial epiphany. SO MUCH thanks owed to him for hosting, providing so much help in terms of both experience and doing a lot of the difficult hands-on work, and remaining patient and positive in light of my panic attack when the car refused to even activate the starter motor. I can't even adequately explain my appreciation, right now. Dat NATOR shit, yo.
 
Ordered JBR boost tubes. Chasing a possible boost leak, which could probably have happened after I installed the ETS TMIC. Since I'm going to be double checking the connections and doing a boost leak test, I thought I might as well replace the boost tubes.
 
I`ve lost track of when I did what. It`s been a lot in a very short time. Yesterday, though, I finished installing the last of my methanol kit (I had left the throttle body spacer off so I could prime/test the line once the new controller comes in but decided I could just as easily finish the install and use a short segment of fuel line out of the solenoid to test it) and painted a few items under the hood.
 
Ordered JBR boost tubes. Chasing a possible boost leak, which could probably have happened after I installed the ETS TMIC. Since I'm going to be double checking the connections and doing a boost leak test, I thought I might as well replace the boost tubes.
Crossing fingers that your stock cold side tube is easier to remove than mine was...geniuses at the factory had installed it so that the clamp was facing downward in a nearly impossible orientation to reach. Took ages to loosen it off of the throttle body. Might be easier to buy a new clamp for it so you can just cut the stock one off and save a lot of time/swearing.
 
Crossing fingers that your stock cold side tube is easier to remove than mine was...geniuses at the factory had installed it so that the clamp was facing downward in a nearly impossible orientation to reach. Took ages to loosen it off of the throttle body. Might be easier to buy a new clamp for it so you can just cut the stock one off and save a lot of time/swearing.
That`s also what I did. I just took a dremel to the clamp.
 
Crossing fingers that your stock cold side tube is easier to remove than mine was...geniuses at the factory had installed it so that the clamp was facing downward in a nearly impossible orientation to reach. Took ages to loosen it off of the throttle body. Might be easier to buy a new clamp for it so you can just cut the stock one off and save a lot of time/swearing.
Shouldn't be a problem anymore as I already ran into this issue when I installed the throttle body gasket bypass before. I can't remember exactly how I solved the issue, but I think I bought a short stubby screwdriver and squeezed my hands in there to loosen the clamp. What's going to be interesting is how the new t-bolt clamps will fit in that tight space.

Also JBR is pretty quick. I ordered the boost tubes late last night, and it has already been shipped even before lunch time.
 
Shouldn't be a problem anymore as I already ran into this issue when I installed the throttle body gasket bypass before. I can't remember exactly how I solved the issue, but I think I bought a short stubby screwdriver and squeezed my hands in there to loosen the clamp. What's going to be interesting is how the new t-bolt clamps will fit in that tight space.

Also JBR is pretty quick. I ordered the boost tubes late last night, and it has already been shipped even before lunch time.
Stubby screwdrivers for the win. There's nothing I can think of that makes working on cars easier than a well-supplied toolbox.
 
Stubby screwdrivers for the win. There's nothing I can think of that makes working on cars easier than a well-supplied toolbox.
Truer wods were never spoken. I used to piss and moan about completing certain tasks until I bought the right tools. Work smarter not harder.
 
There is a rumor with corroborated evidence that at one time my dad was the highest paid Harley mechanic in the country. I do not personally know that to be true, but none the less, it sets the tone for the following:

Years ago, when I spoke to my father still, I was visiting him and we were talking shop. Him bikes, me cars. I was looking through his tool box and the man had a veritable haven of every friggin` tool from the plain to the very obscure, and I said "damn dad, you have so many tools that I didn`t know existed. I can think of a dozen jobs this tool or that tool would have made infinitely easier". His reply? "As a mechanic, a true mechanic, you eventually realize that what you need really is what you need".

From then forward I never had a problem buying specific use tools.
 
There is a rumor with corroborated evidence that at one time my dad was the highest paid Harley mechanic in the country. I do not personally know that to be true, but none the less, it sets the tone for the following:

Years ago, when I spoke to my father still, I was visiting him and we were talking shop. Him bikes, me cars. I was looking through his tool box and the man had a veritable haven of every friggin` tool from the plain to the very obscure, and I said "damn dad, you have so many tools that I didn`t know existed. I can think of a dozen jobs this tool or that tool would have made infinitely easier". His reply? "As a mechanic, a true mechanic, you eventually realize that what you need really is what you need".

From then forward I never had a problem buying specific use tools.
After dumping $4100 into my wife's Harley last year, it' easy to believe Harley mechanics are well paid. When I buy another bike I'll be doing my own work.
 
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