What did you do to your ride today

Sucked water through my CAI Friday night. Flooded from the turbo to the cylinders. Got towed home, dumped the water, siphoned what i could out, pulled plugs, re-gaped them, turned over motor to pump out water, put everything back, crossed my toes, turned her over and after 5 minutes of cranking she started. Roughly I might add. Changed the oil and oil filter. Good to go. Holy shitake though!
 
Sucked water through my CAI Friday night. Flooded from the turbo to the cylinders. Got towed home, dumped the water, siphoned what i could out, pulled plugs, re-gaped them, turned over motor to pump out water, put everything back, crossed my toes, turned her over and after 5 minutes of cranking she started. Roughly I might add. Changed the oil and oil filter. Good to go. Holy shitake though!

I was just talking about this the other day with a guy who was vigilantly defending the CAI after I said this was a possibility. Sucks it happened to you, but I’m glad you got it started again.


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Installed my TB Performance Products lower front tie bar. I did notice a difference in lower NVH as soon as I started the car and idled and drive it around for a few miles. I'm on a CS Stage 2 RMM which is the only other chassis mod currently.
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Anyone know if both gens share the same rear wiper mounting hole circumference? Found a company called Kill All Wipers that have a flush delete kit but only list a gen 1.


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Anyone know if both gens share the same rear wiper mounting hole circumference? Found a company called Kill All Wipers that have a flush delete kit but only list a gen 1.


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Well they specify pretty heavily that it only fits a Juan, so i'm gonna lean towards no. Also that thing is epoxied in there, which is a no from me. CS makes a rear wiper delete kit which is very straight forward but it costs a few more dollars being aluminum and such. Plus you can paint it black if you don't like the CS logo. Only downfall is that it isn't 100% flush.
 
Installed my TB Performance Products lower front tie bar. I did notice a difference in lower NVH as soon as I started the car and idled and drive it around for a few miles. I'm on a CS Stage 2 RMM which is the only other chassis mod currently.
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Sounds promising. I saw that decreased NVH was mentioned as a benefit of this mod. It is good to see someone reporting that to be true.

Noob question, does anyone know why this part decreases NVH? I would think it would add NVH instead of decreasing it.
[doublepost=1535033978][/doublepost]A few days ago, ordered replacement passenger sun visor for Genpu. Should be arriving today.
 
Sounds promising. I saw that decreased NVH was mentioned as a benefit of this mod. It is good to see someone reporting that to be true.

Noob question, does anyone know why this part decreases NVH? I would think it would add NVH instead of decreasing it.
[doublepost=1535033978][/doublepost]A few days ago, ordered replacement passenger sun visor for Genpu. Should be arriving today.
Now that I've put a few hundred miles on it I can better report. There is a slight decrease in NVH but it won't be a big of a difference as going from stock RMM to probably any other stiffer RMM. I can notice the difference at idle and cruising in the first drive. My particular rpm area that I really noticed was around the 2.5-3.5k rpm range accelerating and decelerating. That's my typical daily cruising range with traffic. NVH is still there just a little smoother through certain rpms with the AC on. With the AC off I notice the difference more. Can't speak to much about the steering or handling since that, for me at least, was a minor change. Overall turns and the front steering felt a bit smoother. If I took this off I would notice the NVH more than the handling\steering part if that helps explain it.

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Now that I've put a few hundred miles on it I can better report. There is a slight decrease in NVH but it won't be a big of a difference as going from stock RMM to probably any other stiffer RMM. I can notice the difference at idle and cruising in the first drive. My particular rpm area that I really noticed was around the 2.5-3.5k rpm range accelerating and decelerating. That's my typical daily cruising range with traffic. NVH is still there just a little smoother through certain rpms with the AC on. With the AC off I notice the difference more. Can't speak to much about the steering or handling since that, for me at least, was a minor change. Overall turns and the front steering felt a bit smoother. If I took this off I would notice the NVH more than the handling\steering part if that helps explain it.

I noticed a huge difference in NVH, but I have all solid mounts. The actual handling of the car didn't really get worse but the steering does feel tighter. The biggest difference I feel is in forward momentum. The car just seems to grip so much better. I have 0 torque steer and my wheels don't break loose like they did before. With everything I have done to my car I feel this was the best bang for the buck mod I have installed.
 
Installed shifter bushings, cut my hand up trying to fish one out from a crack it fell down in. Word of advice do not let the bushing slip out of your hand when you're placing it.
 
Installed shifter bushings, cut my hand up trying to fish one out from a crack it fell down in. Word of advice do not let the bushing slip out of your hand when you're placing it.
I used a piece of tape wrapped around my finger to hold them. I only figured this out after I fished the first one out that I dropped.
 
Just got the car back from an AZ Nator guy named Kris Emmel who cleaned my intake ports with walnut shells. Two center cylinders had crud, the outboard cylinders were “dusty”. He replaced all of my injectors too with the CS seals. The car runs fantastic! I pray I am good for another 100,000 miles now....no reason why not.
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Well this was what i would of done to my ride over the weekend if i had self control... my impatient ocd wins yet again. Honey im going to take the trash out and jack the car up quick to look at something.... tbc need proper couplers.

St mani adapter and a cs tb. Good thing i saved my bolts from my meth plate.

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I finally finished all of the wiring for my meth kit and verified it works. Primed the system with distilled water and will drain most of it out and replace with VP M1 methanol. Still need to install the spacer and get my PSB-1 failsafe wired in (once all of my exhaust work gets finished).
 
Just got the car back from an AZ Nator guy named Kris Emmel who cleaned my intake ports with walnut shells. Two center cylinders had crud, the outboard cylinders were “dusty”. He replaced all of my injectors too with the CS seals. The car runs fantastic! I pray I am good for another 100,000 miles now....no reason why not.
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I picked up a used cp-e TMIC. More air is better than less.....


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