Which Clutch Should I Get?

Which Clutch/FW Combination Should I Get?

  • Luk 10-064 + Fidanza 161071 (~$545)

    Votes: 5 29.4%
  • Spec Stage 3+ Self Ratcheting + Spec Aluminum Flywheel (~$1332)

    Votes: 1 5.9%
  • South Bend Stage 3 Daily (~$1197)

    Votes: 6 35.3%
  • Spec Stage 3+ SZ033F-2 Fidanza 161071 (~$1147)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • South Bend Stage 3 Endurance (~$1305)

    Votes: 5 29.4%

  • Total voters
    17
So far, absolutely love it. its not that bad on the leg. easy to drive, and is taking a beating.
BTW, what's the break-in procedure (if any)?
[doublepost=1481322285][/doublepost]South Bend Stage 3 Endurance chosen. Fortunately Edge throws in the TOB, flywheel bolts, and alignment tool, Still gotta get a pilot bearing and rear main seal to have on hand, just in case. Does anyone know these part #s off the top of their head? I'll be searching, but I figure some other folks in this thread may know readily.

Unfortunately, South Bend is not a vendor that is discounted in Edge sales. Does anyone know a supplier to get these clutches at a great price? On the other hand, with the other stuff Edge throws in for free, it may be a wash. Just curious.
 
I think they have the best deal on them.
Just shoot them.an email and they will hook you up
 
I think they have the best deal on them.
Just shoot them.an email and they will hook you up
Yeah, and I want to support them, too. But if I could save a good deal of $$$, that's compelling since I just bought a house. Besides, I buy tons of stuff from Edge anyways.

BTW, I guess you may have missed it, but does the SB have a particular break-in procedure?
 
It's glorious. Who knew the PP, disk, and flywheel combo would be so heavy? Pretty sure it's lighter than the stock dual-mass flywheel, though:
upload_2016-12-30_16-54-25.png
Chose to forgo pics of flywheel bolts, pilot and throwout bearing, and rear main seal (just in case mine's leaking).

Anyone know weight difference between this flywheel and stock? I've seen everywhere from 26-43lbs (stock) and 20 on the South Bend. Perhaps that 43lb OEM estimate was the whole assembly...
 
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Since nobody answered, I found out from South Bend that 500-700 of driving around town with lots of shifting is the break-in procedure. If you'll be driving a lot on the highway, you should probably up this to 1,000 miles to get sufficient time at various rev ranges and sufficient shifts in before going WOT.

Buuuuuuut..... it may no longer be an issue, thanks to @Enki. I followed his advice about downshifting to raise the revs while coming up to a stop light and pressing the clutch so that it slightly engaged and reverse-scrubbing off any glazing that may be a factor. Results?
upload_2017-1-2_15-51-28.png
73 IAT
Log 1: 4.64 60-100; BATs plummeted to 59 in the middle of the pull and rose up to 62 @ redline (still 10 degrees below IAT)
Log 2: 4.66 60-100; BATs plummeted to 61 in the middle of the pull and rose up to 64 @ redline (still 10 degrees below IAT)

I really, really appreciate you, James. If nothing else, it looks like I've at least extended my clutch life. Oh, and IDCs were ~88. Did I mention I love my CM10? :D
Logs attached...
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Since nobody answered, I found out from South Bend that 500-700 of driving around town with lots of shifting is the break-in procedure. If you'll be driving a lot on the highway, you should probably up this to 1,000 miles to get sufficient time at various rev ranges and sufficient shifts in before going WOT.

Buuuuuuut..... it may no longer be an issue, thanks to @Enki. I followed his advice about downshifting to raise the revs while coming up to a stop light and pressing the clutch so that it slightly engaged and reverse-scrubbing off any glazing that may be a factor. Results?
View attachment 4776
73 IAT
Log 1: 4.64 60-100; BATs plummeted to 59 in the middle of the pull and rose up to 62 @ redline (still 10 degrees below IAT)
Log 2: 4.66 60-100; BATs plummeted to 61 in the middle of the pull and rose up to 64 @ redline (still 10 degrees below IAT)

I really, really appreciate you, James. If nothing else, it looks like I've at least extended my clutch life. Oh, and IDCs were ~88. Did I mention I love my CM10? :D
Logs attached...
So im way late to this thread and dont know if you still even keep up here but id love to hear your experience with the SB endurance clutch as im in the market for a new clutch on my 08 speed 3 as of now. Any information would be greatly appreciated :)

Edit: ive just realized that this user is banned but if anyone else sees this any information would be useful
Thanks a lot
 
So im way late to this thread and dont know if you still even keep up here but id love to hear your experience with the SB endurance clutch as im in the market for a new clutch on my 08 speed 3 as of now. Any information would be greatly appreciated :)

Edit: ive just realized that this user is banned but if anyone else sees this any information would be useful
Thanks a lot

Only other person i know that has one is making anywhere from 550-650 and says he loves it.
 
I have SB clutch and flywheel (daily, not racing one). Been on for 60K+ miles with no issues. OEM clutch started slipping on highway during summer by simply flooring it. It was over $1K if I remember correctly but its held up well with ZERO issues. I littlerally just replaced throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and input shaft bearing this week, and the clutch friction plate was still good with what looks to me like plenty of life left.
 
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