while I have the engine out I should....

[tt930]

I have removed the engine from a 2008 3speed. It has around 190k miles. I got it from a friend who was the 2nd owner. It had what appeared to be a bad head gasket. It has great service records with many oil changes and other services. It does have a K&N intake and filter and a Cobb access port with what I think was the stage 1 tune installed (I wonder if this caused the head gasket problem???). I did a leak down test and cylinders #1 & #2 were fine, but #3 leaked a lot of air out the spark plug hole in #4. So I took the engine out and it did have a bad head gasket. The head is at a machine shop getting refreshed. So while I have the engine out I plan to update/replace the following:

• Timing chains, the VVT and tensioner
• Clutch plate, throw out bearing and pilot bushing
• I removed the engine balance shaft and installed the Corksport oil pan baffle.
• ARP head studs
• New PVC valve
• New power steering hoses, they were badly rusted and has started to leak
• Corksport rear motor mount
• Timing cover crank seal
• Cam cover gasket
• rear main seal

Should I replace or add the following items while I have the engine out:

• Water pump, thermostat?
• O2 sensors
• Pressure plate (do they go bad? my other MS3 with 216K on the original clutch is doing great)
• Fuel pump high pressure internals
• Oil cooler, Oil temp and pressure gauges? (I plan to do a few track days with the car down the road)
• Anything else??

Thanks

Oh can anybody tell me the part number for this part? took it off the engine weeks ago and forgot where it came from. Upon inspection recently I noticed a small rust hole forming. I can't find it in the a Madza parts catalog. I tried looking under coolant parts but did not see anything that looked like it.

 

[Easter Bunny]

You should swap the downpipe

 

[tt930]

You should swap the downpipelooking online I did notice that changing the down pipe helps performance but here in NY we have annual inspections that check for codes and if you have erased code before arriving. they will fail the car. Are there down pipes that don't cause codes?

In NY we have annual inspects and they will fail you if you any codes or have erase them before the inspection. most down pipes I saw seem to be catless, the others with cats did not seem to have ports for both OS sensors. are there some that will not cause a code?

 

[Easter Bunny]

you would need a catted DP and could always have the appropriate bungs welded on

 

[Benny71]

In NY we have annual inspects and they will fail you if you any codes or have erase them before the inspection. most down pipes I saw seem to be catless, the others with cats did not seem to have ports for both OS sensors. are there some that will not cause a code?

The CPE QKspl catted downpipe has both O2 sensor bungs, upper & lower. I've been running this in Massachusetts and no issues when hooked up to the scanner for inspection. Just my 2 cents.

 

[tt930]

The CPE QKspl catted downpipe has both O2 sensor bungs, upper & lower. I've been running this in Massachusetts and no issues when hooked up to the scanner for inspection. Just my 2 cents.

Okay I will check out the details about the CPE OKspl downpipe. thanks for the info!

 

[Easter Bunny]

Prepare to have a heart attack when you see the price

 

[DISIFTW]

Unless you're using L19 or 625 headstuds I would avoid ARP. The OEM headbolts are fine for a stock turbo. Only use an OEM throw out bearing as others are prone to failure. I would recommend the spin on oil filter conversion from the gen2 or hit up @Matt@DamondMotorsports for their oil cooler kit if you plan on tracking the car.

Not sure on the part number for that but try a junkyard or ebay.

 

[tt930]

Unless you're using L19 or 625 headstuds I would avoid ARP. The OEM headbolts are fine for a stock turbo. Only use an OEM throw out bearing as others are prone to failure. I would recommend the spin on oil filter conversion from the gen2 or hit up @Matt@DamondMotorsports for their oil cooler kit if you plan on tracking the car.

Not sure on the part number for that but try a junkyard or ebay.

Thanks for your input.

Well I thought I had ordered the L19 head studs but the box does not show L19 anywhere. It does have a number 218-5402 which I do not see any cross reference to L19. The product listing does say, "8740 chromoly steel and heat-treated in-house to 190,000 psi tensile-strength rating" are these good enough? they were around $140 if that means anything. I have an OEM throw out on order, there seems to be a lot cheap aftermarket parts out on the internet.

I will check out the Damond oil cooler kit, when I glance at a while ago it seemed to an expense option for me to get now, since I never driven a front wheel drive car on the track before, I want to make sure I enjoy it before going with more track upgrades. Also it seem with the Gen 1 front, placement to get air seemed to be something I need to figure out. I am planning to remove the fog lights and use that space to channel air to the brakes via some ducts I hope to design and 3d print to fit that opening.

 

[Benny71]

Prepare to have a heart attack when you see the price

LOL... That's why I got my girlfriend to buy it as a xmas present.

 

[tt930]

I have removed the engine from a 2008 3speed. It has around 190k miles. I got it from a friend who was the 2nd owner. It had what appeared to be a bad head gasket. It has great service records with many oil changes and other services. It does have a K&N intake and filter and a Cobb access port with what I think was the stage 1 tune installed (I wonder if this caused the head gasket problem???). I did a leak down test and cylinders #1 & #2 were fine, but #3 leaked a lot of air out the spark plug hole in #4. So I took the engine out and it did have a bad head gasket. The head is at a machine shop getting refreshed. So while I have the engine out I plan to update/replace the following:

• Timing chains, the VVT and tensioner
• Clutch plate, throw out bearing and pilot bushing
• I removed the engine balance shaft and installed the Corksport oil pan baffle.
• ARP head studs
• New PVC valve
• New power steering hoses, they were badly rusted and has started to leak
• Corksport rear motor mount
• Timing cover crank seal
• Cam cover gasket
• rear main seal

Should I replace or add the following items while I have the engine out:

• Water pump, thermostat?
• O2 sensors
• Pressure plate (do they go bad? my other MS3 with 216K on the original clutch is doing great)
• Fuel pump high pressure internals
• Oil cooler, Oil temp and pressure gauges? (I plan to do a few track days with the car down the road)
• Anything else??

Thanks

Oh can anybody tell me the part number for this part? took it off the engine weeks ago and forgot where it came from. Upon inspection recently I noticed a small rust hole forming. I can't find it in the a Madza parts catalog. I tried looking under coolant parts but did not see anything that looked like it.
View attachment 34172

Ok I am at the point where I have the head back and I need to reinstall the injectors and the fuel rail. This is the first GDI car I have had or worked on. It looks like I should consider the Overspeed injector seals. I do not see how to install these but I assume they are the "lower seal" that goes into the head. It seems like the OEM lower seal can fail easily and are difficult to get installed correctly. So this seems to a must do for me, right? Also it seems like I should get the stud kit for installing the injectors also, right?

 

[DISIFTW]

Those sound like the wrong head studs, L19s are ~$400 for a set. Even the spin-on oil filter kit is an upgrade from the dumb cartridge filter if you don't wanna drop the funds for the cooler.

Definitely grab a set of Overspeed or CS seals and I highly recommend sending your injectors off to be cleaned and flow tested, or buying a set from CW and sending your old ones in as a core charge. Install is pretty self explanatory the seals the sit right on the injector. You can use CorkSport's install guide as a reference. The injector stud kit is a nice to have and not necessary as long as you didn't mess up the T40 torx bolts when you removed them.

Thanks for your input.

Well I thought I had ordered the L19 head studs but the box does not show L19 anywhere. It does have a number 218-5402 which I do not see any cross reference to L19. The product listing does say, "8740 chromoly steel and heat-treated in-house to 190,000 psi tensile-strength rating" are these good enough? they were around $140 if that means anything. I have an OEM throw out on order, there seems to be a lot cheap aftermarket parts out on the internet.

I will check out the Damond oil cooler kit, when I glance at a while ago it seemed to an expense option for me to get now, since I never driven a front wheel drive car on the track before, I want to make sure I enjoy it before going with more track upgrades. Also it seem with the Gen 1 front, placement to get air seemed to be something I need to figure out. I am planning to remove the fog lights and use that space to channel air to the brakes via some ducts I hope to design and 3d print to fit that opening.

 

[tt930]

Those sound like the wrong head studs, L19s are ~$400 for a set. Even the spin-on oil filter kit is an upgrade from the dumb cartridge filter if you don't wanna drop the funds for the cooler.

Definitely grab a set of Overspeed or CS seals and I highly recommend sending your injectors off to be cleaned and flow tested, or buying a set from CW and sending your old ones in as a core charge. Install is pretty self explanatory the seals the sit right on the injector. You can use CorkSport's install guide as a reference. The injector stud kit is a nice to have and not necessary as long as you didn't mess up the T40 torx bolts when you removed them.

Thanks fore the help. Yup wrong studs, for some reason I order main studs, duh. I have reorder the head studs. I will look for a used spin-on setup. I did just order the CS seals and studs for the injectors.

"CW" who or what is CW?

Thanks!

 

[DISIFTW]

Chris Ward, his website is cwturbochargers.com I think. Seems like a decent guy and I've purchased a couple things from him without issues.

 

[tt930]

Chris Ward, his website is cwturbochargers.com I think. Seems like a decent guy and I've purchased a couple things from him without issues.

Thanks.