Why You Should Check Your Fuel Injectors

DubC said:
just thinking here...y'all think that cleaning/upgrading these seals would get rid of all (if not, most) of KR? not sure what else could cause KR as i'm not a pro at all the inner workings.
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There’s a lot that can cause KR, but clogged fuel injectors are a pretty good way to start. I’ve seen injector tips with crud stalactites partially blocking the stream. The injectors are supposed to spray a fine mist and anything inhibiting or blocking that mist spray will make ignition less uniform.


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DubC said:
thanks for the info. i found a youtube vid that shows a guy removing them (i honestly forgot that they were under the intake manifold...fuuuuck. and he cleaned them himself with a very soft scrub pad. i'm not sure that's the best way to do it, but that's just how he did it.

also he did not use a puller for his. he just pryed the rail off and took off a few bolts and apparently just pulled them out. did anyone need to use an injector puller? i see CS pushing theirs when you look at their seals. i'm assuming those CS seals are the ones to get after reading a few old threads.
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I recently did injector work on my speed 3. I used a hammer to pry the rail off VERY GENTLY. Do one side at a time, meaning a little on the left and if it pops out move onto the next side and work your way out.

Not the injectors but the fuel rail with a hammer for leverage. My injectors were pretty messed up so they popped out fairly easy.
 
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All me and @Awafrican can say on this matter is...YES...buy the CS injector puller tool.

That tool is worth its weight in gold if you need it.

Also, Mazda will just try and sell you snake oil to clean the injectors. Only way is to remove them and have a shop professionally clean and flow/flow-pattern test them. Cleaning them externally ONLY won't do anything unless you have the carbon stalagtites. A bit of carbon buildup on the tip is completely normal.

The injectors are ultrasonically cleaned, with filter baskets and orings replaced.
 
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Sho said:
All of em can fail if you dont tq them properly and dont have a clean surface inside the head.

I personally reused those cpe seals 3-4 times before they started leaking and have reused overspeed seals 2 times so far with success. Upgrading to the nut/stud combo over the stock torx units helps as well as you can actually properly torque everything down
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Sorry for replying to a older thread but can you happen to confirm the studs and nuts needed? I saw 2 SKU’s floating around online. I have a fastenal hook up so it’ll help.
 
Anthony Pham said:
Sorry for replying to a older thread but can you happen to confirm the studs and nuts needed? I saw 2 SKU’s floating around online. I have a fastenal hook up so it’ll help.
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You can re-use the OEM injector bolts but studs make things much easier after especially for torquing.
 
Awafrican said:
You can re-use the OEM injector bolts but studs make things much easier after especially for torquing.
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I replaced my injectors the first time.. stripped the oem ones. I’m on my second time right now and my bit broke inside the head, I used anti seize on the first time too.

I want to change to the studs/nuts, just trying to find the correct ones/SKU’s since I have a Fastenal plug.
 
Anthony Pham said:
I replaced my injectors the first time.. stripped the oem ones. I’m on my second time right now and my bit broke inside the head, I used anti seize on the first time too.

I want to change to the studs/nuts, just trying to find the correct ones/SKU’s since I have a Fastenal plug.
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Oh okay, you'll need the stud and nut, cut the OEM bolt and use the washer it comes with detailed in this thread

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/torx-injector-bolts.11263/#post-83417

Here's the part numbers Capture+_2020-09-27-18-35-19 (1).png
 
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