Wot kr

Haedenjames

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
I have a 2006 MAZDASPEED6. It has 120,000 miles on it. It is completely stock minus a bov. Cs injector seals, and an ap with a stage 1 Cobb ots map. I have hpfp internals, dp, and a tune on the way. I get wot kr builds slowly up to around 3-5 depending on bats. Can’t seam to figure out what’s causing it if anyone has any idea I’d like some input. Car is super smooth but I can feel timing being pulled during these knock events. Also only hitting 13 psi tapering to 10-11 near redline. No leaks trims and afr on point. I included a 2nd and 3rd gear wot data log. Knock gets way worse with higher bats
 

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When did you last replace your plugs? Was your VVT serviced? Did this occur while you were on the stock map or after you added parts and flashed to cobbs OTS?
 
When did you last replace your plugs? Was your VVT serviced? Did this occur while you were on the stock map or after you added parts and flashed to cobbs OTS?
Fresh plugs gapped to .028, fresh rotella t6 oil. Vvt hasn’t been serviced ever. I did have the valve cover off and there was no rubbing marks on the top and the chain seemed nice and tight. This happened on stage 0 and stage 1. I didn’t have the ap on the stock map so not sure and didn’t save Ecu data. Weird thing is stage 0 boosts up to 16 spiking to 17 sometimes 18 psi then tapers down to 15 and holds. The included log was stage 1.
 
None of those garbage OTS tunes account for a downpipe. You're probably just knocking bc no proper tune
 
None of those garbage OTS tunes account for a downpipe. You're probably just knocking bc no proper tune
Downpipe is on the way along with a tunes the car has a stock exhaust system from the turbo back. The only mods ON the car are cs injector seals a thermal intake manifold gasket and a bov
 
you should add Injector duty and wastegate duty to your log. also, take one log, from say 2500rpm in 3rd or 4th, and pull all the way to redline. what you did there is kinda all over the place and a little hard to read.

this said, it looks ok other then the KR.
 
Do you have any E85 around? Or access to methanol you can dump into the tank?

Idk the mix ratio for methanol in tank, but 1-2 gal of E85 should stop or help the knock if it's real. If it doesn't change, I'd look elsewhere.

The stage 0 is probably adjusting boost to hit load, it's a stock simulated tune which is load based.
 
Unfortunately I don’t have access to anything higher than 91 octane. I’ll update you guys after I get this protune and these parts put on.
 
Get some denatured alcohol from a hardware store and throw it in. If the knock goes away or reduces, it's real knock. It could be noise, in which case the knock would still be there.
 
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injector seals as the only mod is the weirdest shit ever.
 
injector seals as the only mod is the weirdest shit ever.
Not when you have kr like mine all the time and have no leaks and new plugs and oil. Plan on building the car so I got the lifetime guaranteed Seals.
 
Iv got an update on my kr. I installed the sri from cs along with the ots tune for that and hpfp internals. I broke my ebcs in the process so I bypassed it and am hitting 10 psi knock is completely gone minus the occasional 2 degrees when my bats surpass 120. Waiting on the downpipe to come in and have a base tune waiting. So to my understanding the knock is within the tune? As now with low boost I get none
 
Personally I'd flash back to stock tune, and see how it does...Cobb ots maps are poop. Sort the issue then once dp hpfp and tune is on you should be good to go.

Iv got an update on my kr. I installed the sri from cs along with the ots tune for that and hpfp internals. I broke my ebcs in the process so I bypassed it and am hitting 10 psi knock is completely gone minus the occasional 2 degrees when my bats surpass 120. Waiting on the downpipe to come in and have a base tune waiting. So to my understanding the knock is within the tune? As now with low boost I get none

See my original comment....yes cobb ots tunes can be bad and cause issues hence why I recommend going back to stock tune to help troubleshooting.

Edit: could also be the boost controller of its bypassed and it's it's resolved
 
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See my original comment....yes cobb ots tunes can be bad and cause issues hence why I recommend going back to stock tune to help troubleshooting.

The stock tune knocks worse than the ots tune does. Also the boost controller was working just fine I just broke it when I was trying to pull the lines off.

Edit: could also be the boost controller of its bypassed and it's it's resolved
 
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