Ok, I got a update. I started it to log the idle and it never stalled when I am logging it of course...drove it to work and same symptoms though, doesn't like building boost at all, drive able as long as you stay out of boost, idle was rough, part throttle a little jumpy but its been like that...
Lol, no crackle tune. I did run one years ago when I had a focus st, but I smartened up.i am running full VTA though so it always spikes rich for a second when the throttle closes. I just have the regular full pro tune from Justin.
I will go over it all tomorrow, I just had the intercooler off...
Update:
I replaced the primary oxygen sensor with a new OEM one, just for maintenance/ was planning on doing it anyway, sensor was original, and replaced the MAF with a Denso 604 off rockauto and issue seems to be completely fixed. I drove it for a day and a half so far and it doesnt stutter at...
I didn’t expect it to fix it, I just wanted to see if another MAF would make it start. That MAF I used cross referenced to the Mazda one on a few different sites so I didn’t think it would hurt to try. Car still won’t start if the maf is unplugged.
Went out this morning and tried to start it. no dice. swapped out the MAF for a junkyard one I had lying around, I think for a subaru its a 197400-2090 and it started and idled for 5-6 seconds then shut itself off and threw a po335 for crank position sensor circuit. Could it have thrown that...
Has gas in it, not much but it’s not on E either. I did notice key on sometimes the check engine light flashes. Immobilizer light goes off, nothing else stays on.
I went out this morning and did a video of a cold start after sitting all night. Shows voltage and I went through my trouble codes. Something is up with my downstream o2 but don’t think that would cause anything it just watches cat efficiency right? Other codes are probably from my SWAS...
battery is the one that came with the car when I bought it. No idea how old it is but it looks pretty old. corrosion/ white buildup on the negative terminal. I was watching voltages today since it crossed my mind and I’m only pulling 13-13.2 volts around town running/ highway it can hit 13.8 but...
No idea why it stops stalling when it drives awhile…
I’m starting to think it’s not ignition or coil/ plug related and it’s either in the ECU or a sensor working better as it warms up. Car is cursed…
As for the boost cut, If it was a single coil or a general misfire it would be a lot less...
This car is driving me nuts lol…
New map installed today, fixed that issue boost readings back to normal/ looked over coil harness and everything looks good, no loose or broken or bare wires. Wiggled the harness best I could while running and no change. Problem is still there. Start of the drive...
Ok I will go over the harness. My map is started to act up too now, when I had my intake manifold off I sprayed it out pretty good with chlorinated brake clean but forgot to pull the MAP off so it got soaked and definately sprayed directly so I’m guessing I damaged it. On the way home it was...
heres a short video of it happening, hesitation and stutter.
right after this video it actually shut off on the highway so i had to get out disconnect the battery and reconnect it, then i started it and it was fine and made it to work after babying it for 10 mins then back to normal and can do...