[SOLVED] Crank no start or start then die immediately

08Speed3

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
Year/Make/Model: 2008 Mazdaspeed3
Mileage:140000kms engine
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Concern: crank no start
DTC's: VTCS stuck open, VTCS is deleted
Modifications: intake, tip, catless dp , straight pipe exhaust,Accessport, ssqv, auto tech internals,
ECU/Tuning Software: Accessport v3
Tuner:freektune
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Yes
Recent Repairs: new map sensor, intake valve cleaning, flow tested and cleaned injectors
Correction:


Dealing with a crank no start. Drove to work fine this morning, get in to go home after sitting 8 hours and car started for a brief second and died. Now car will crank but not start, disconnected battery to reset ecu and car every once and awhile will start for a few seconds and then die immediately. After it does that it will crank and crank and do nothing. If I prime the pump a bunch of times car will start, but die after a few seconds even if I try to keep it alive with throttle. Hold revs at 3k but will still die after a few seconds of running. Fuel pump resistor is jumped. Hpfp reading looks fine on the Accessport, over 400 when it starts shoots up to 1000+psi but dies still. I hear the in tank pump prime, though quiet and I don’t think I hear it everytime. Grounds are good, Hpfp ground is secure and clean.fuses all look good. I’m leaning to in tank pump failing but I’m not sure. Might try to clean Hpfp tomorrow but for now car is stuck at work.
 
Any codes or lights on the dash?

Is there gas in it?
 
Has gas in it, not much but it’s not on E either. I did notice key on sometimes the check engine light flashes. Immobilizer light goes off, nothing else stays on.
 
Went out this morning and tried to start it. no dice. swapped out the MAF for a junkyard one I had lying around, I think for a subaru its a 197400-2090 and it started and idled for 5-6 seconds then shut itself off and threw a po335 for crank position sensor circuit. Could it have thrown that from the MAF being different? In tank fuel pump is giving me around 65psi steady key off. during cranking HPFP fires up 1000psi+ so I dont think its a fuel pump issue. Must have spark unless the PCM is cutting it for some reason.
 
a random maf sensor isnt going to improve anything. you would be better off just unplugging the stock one.
 
I didn’t expect it to fix it, I just wanted to see if another MAF would make it start. That MAF I used cross referenced to the Mazda one on a few different sites so I didn’t think it would hurt to try. Car still won’t start if the maf is unplugged.
 
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