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Sounds like it's time to go turbo...

If it were me I'd replace everything minus the cams as long as their journals and lobes aren't damaged by debris. The abuse you put an engine through is too much of a risk to reuse some of those parts. There is a guy local to me selling a complete Ferrera valve train for a K series. 1100...

Knock knock who's there? Cylinder 4

My old speed came up for sale a few months ago locally. The guy said it had a big oil leak which was probably the rear main. Either way I should have bought it, fixed it and resold it.

Is there anyway we can copy and pin that specific reply to this post as a separate topic?

Traction control is done through the ABS. The ABS module pulses the solenoids for the wheel that is slipping to slow it down and maintain grip.

Always replace the friction washers.

Seeing that 9k RPM was nice! Any plans to go higher? You were definitely moving on that lap.

My advice is to find a regular Mazda 3 sedan and swap everything over. You can find them for super cheap and in a manual transmission too. Make a sleeper. Trying to fix your hatch is gonna be difficult. The damage is done. Can it be fixed? Yes. Is it worth the time? Not really.

The way manufacturers eliminated the EGR system is with VVT on both camshafts. By controlling overlap they can control exhaust gas temperature. If you add EGR into a plastic manifold you risk melting it. If the ST manifold doesn't have a provision for it then it is either done through a port...

My advice, stop running OTS maps and only buy parts once. Decide what direction or power level you want for the car and only buy parts to get you to that. Start with Driver Mod (getting used to the car, knowing it's limits and limitations) and improve on that. Do some local AutoX events with...

Driving your car that way is like how the new Z06's are. Their ECU won't allow you to go to the rev limiter untill a certain mileage. In your case it's more personal restraint.

It's highly unlikely you have multiple bad sensors. The common denominator is the ECU. Do any of those sensors share a common 5V reference? GM vehicles will throw codes for 5V reference 1, 2, 3 and so on. What we do for those codes is disconnect each sensor one by one on that 5v reference line...

Check out magnaflow. I have one on my Miata. Good tone, not too loud, 3" in and outlet

Data systems need only three things to communicate. Power, ground, and serial data. Now what can get wonky is in two wire networks the need for twisted wires. Have you done anything anywhere that could have separated a twisted pair of wires for data communication? For example I had to rewire...

Is it completely losing fuel pressure including low side pressure? Or only high side? Did you try the tests I suggested?

Try using a jumper cable to connect the engine to the negative battery post. It could be an intermittent ground issue or a bad cable. Using a jumper cable to act as a secondary ground cable could help isolate a weird grounding concern. Also try a loaded voltage drop test from the alternator...

You can download it to a USB and connect it to the head unit

Be like that guy who bought a Ferrari shell then didn't have the money for the engine so he put a Rotary in it. Then put a 240 front end on it.

Skip the TB for now. HPFP internals, downpipe/exhaust, intercooler, a good tune will have you noticing a bit more power. I would suggest just getting a bunch of stuff together first then installing all at once to save money on the tuning part. Otherwise every time you have to have it redone...