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If you need more info I also have a bunch of how to's that are a little simplified. I used this thread and a few others when I did mine. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/timing-the-mzr-disi.8722/

@andale927 Don't we have an updated version of this that is fancier?

bosch 0261545053 https://www.ebay.com/itm/283795182353?_ul=IL Not sure if that is legit or not but that is the part number.

OEM head gasket and studs are good to around 500 ft/lb tq. You will not really need to pull the head to do timing. Upgrading the valve train is not really necessary until you go build and get more fuel. OEM setup can rev to 7200 all day long.

I do not, if yours is still good you could try just re-pinning it. Some of these can be impossible to find and are not available to buy just 1 of. Might see about a junk yard and grabbing one there.

Congrats on making the jam!

Tie rods are easy enough and so are end links. Might as well replace them if they are high mile. I used the tool below for my tie rods. I also used the SKP ones off rock auto. Mine ended up being an issue with the passenger axle. I would see vibrating with acceleration. If you tires are cupped...

I wish mine was in the exhaust as people think I am racing them when I am just trying to get on the highway or interstate. It's very loud bouncing off the ground and I imagine it is even louder outside the car. I would dump it under the car if anything. My buddies can hear me when they are in...

Ask @CorkSport - Derrick maybe he can help you out.

If he has a 21lb spring in it and is only seeing 23 psi at 55% wgdc that seems pretty low. A 21 lb spring should "in theory" make up to 42lbs of boost before it can't hold anymore. He should not have to request 100% wgdc to get the turbo to spool quickly to spring pressure. It does look like the...

Does seem pretty slow, he brings on WGDC as soon as you hit it but the boost crawls to 20 psi. Turbo should be more responsive than that. Is the turbo healthy? I would just bypass the EBCS and do new lines and run a line straight from the turbo to the wastegate. What spring do you have in the gate?

Looking good, are you doing any porting on the head or did the shop do it?

You do not need the LS friction modifier for this trans due to how the LSD is designed "gear driven". It will not will hurt anything but it is not necessary and you can just get regular Tribodyn 75w90.

I am seeing constant knock in your logs. This will pull timing and cause all sorts of other issues. This could be bad gas, a leaking injector seal, bad sensor "electrical" or an actual physical issue with the engine. I would try and sort out the cause of this before you do much more driving...

Update: This is still working even when it was -20f outside. I have randomly had issues with it sticking so the clutch will engage for a moment right off the floor and then back at the normal spot. They sent me a new o-ring kit for it but I have not had time to change it out. It was free. It...

I wouldn't get new cams unless yours have issues. Won't be necessary for your goals and they aren't cheap.

Yes, do this. It is also very handy to have that on hand for the future. Leave the PI off and max out your stock fuel system. I know that is not always possible with burger turbos "my 5862 would max fuel past 5500rpm due to creep from the CPE manifold"

Those logs seem fine, try to get one with the issue.

The Castrol is about 14$ cheaper for 5 quart vs the RP at walmart and I can get it in 5w40.

Castrol Synthetic Edge also supports this and is cheaper, VW guys with DI seem to love it. https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motor-oil-and-fluids/new-gf-6-specification.html