If you have the ability tear the engine down to a bare block before taking to the machine shop so you can inspect it for damage, like the cylinder walls/sleeve to ensure they’re still usable. If it is good then next I would have the machine shop see if you can use 87.75mm pistons instead of...
I would verify routing and check valve orientation as stated above, but there’s zero reason to have a vented can on the pcv side especially on a stock turbo (assuming that because of stock TMIC). Can you post a pic or your routing or which diagram you’re using?
Your compression is fine, and it’s highly unlikely you have a stuck oil control ring. You can pull the spark plugs and inspect the cylinder walls with a borescope to look for scoring but I doubt that’s your issue. Have you checked to see if there’s any oil leaking from under the car at all...
Just got another one, but my first is the reason for the best friends/family I have now.
2009 BMP GT: Nator VA built
-Wiseco pistons
-Manley H beams
-ACT 6 puck
-Damond PCV plate & OCCs
-GTX2867
CP-enis exhaust mani
TS 45mm EWG
CP-enis catless DP
Aquamist HFS-3 meth kit (2-500cc jets w/ VP M1)...
Monthly update:
Got the electric power steering pump mounted, fits nicely where the old ps reservoir and windshield washer fluid reservoir were. It’s from a 2011 Mazda 3, but a pu pump will also work. There will be more details when I do the how-to after getting everything done and verify if the...
Only the filler kit showed up, still waiting on the fuel cell and FCST.
It will have a koyorad and the AC condenser is gone so that should help with airflow there. My other consideration is having heat in the car for the occasional times I do drive it on the street.
Interior is 99% removed, debating on keeping the heater core…thoughts?
Fuel tank dropped, rear subframe is out, spare tire well cut and gone, made an access hole to get the stock fuel filler neck out to install the radium fill port. This part was a PITA! Took me over an hour to drill the holes...