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As long as you're not launching them, yes.

They're the same axles. Just get DTAs from amazon/ebay and you'll be fine. You can use the search function at the top of the page to find answers too instead of making a new thread for things that have already been covered.

OEM is your only option, find a speed in a junkyard. Other option is fuel cell but that's a whole different set of problems.

Was the new throttle body OEM Mazda? The 0403 code is EGR, is the EGR deleted? 0037 is secondary O2 sensor, is that removed or are you catless downpipe?

There's not an inspection plate to see so you would have to separate the block and trans. As far as oil pan, there's not a gasket its rtv. If you go that route make sure to completely clean the old rtv off the pan, block, and rear main seal and be generous when reapplying around the rear main...

It's hard to tell a slight bend tell using the long extension method; best way is to drop the oil pan and visually inspect. The slight vibration in the clutch could be a few things, is it the oem clutch or aftermarket? It also could be nothing at all.

Awww shucks! TY but I would like to donate it to @brandonf

As long as it's not a JDM one, put the engine in and go with it. If the VVT is bad the kit is ~$400 and a few hours.

NGK 6510s, they're 1 step colder plugs. Your local auto parts stores may have them in stock, be weary that some of the ones off Amazon are fakes.

Ebtec is solid and would def be able to help you get the car sorted. For plug gaps it depends on the plug but .026 is a good starting point.

Not yet, first batch should be shipping out soon. Be a perfect time to grab one and install since you're changing the t-stat anyway.

Not sure what shop you're referring to, but google is your friend for freektune or pd tuning. Verify if you have upgraded hpfp internals especially with a catless dp, if not you'll need those before anything else. Ensure the car is running normally before starting the tune process and check your...

Also, if you are unsure about mods then post a couple pics of the engine bay so we can try to help you out. If there's any mods you'll want to get proper tune from Freektune or PD tuning, I don't recommend the OTS maps the AP comes with at all.

Swap the oil, 23psi on not good fuel pressure is bad news so stop boosting period until you figure the issue out. ITFP stands for in-tank fuel pump so yes, its the one in the gas tank.

You can hold off on shipping them for now, I'll get you an address soon. "Should be heading home soon" haha!!! My money is on an extension before that :/

That's a weird failure, have you talked to Jordan @ Overspeed?

How's the hpfp being fed fuel and do you have a boost reference going to the FPR?

Assuming right side means you're inside the car so passenger side? Have you checked your belt/tensioner, axles, and everything in that area to make sure nothing is moving around?

If you delete the AC compressor you can use a mazda5 alternator in it's place to get the stock one away from the turbo and free up space.

Update: Currently deployed since November and have limited connectivity so no pics at the moment. Got the 14gal radium fuel cell installed, trailing arms machined to fit the CX-7 hubs/bearings and welded on the rear shock adapters. Got all the new powerflex bushings installed, ordered a set of...