2006 Mazdaspeed 6 bogging at boost

_UsUrPeR_

_UsUrPeR_

Greenie N00B Member
ENGINE/DRIVABILITY

Year/Make/Model: 2006 Mazdaspeed 6
Mileage: 40k on a rebuilt engine
Location: Detroit, MI
Concern: Vehicle bogs at WOT, started a fire on insulation, awful idle
DTC's: p2177, p2187, p0234
Modifications: Cobb SF Intake, Corksport HPFP, Accessport tuned to ~340. Normally 19PSI, no cat.
ECU/Tuning Software: Accessport
Tuner:
Is the concern intermittent? No
Can you duplicate the concern? Absolutely
Recent Repairs: Corksport HPFP upgrade, replaced MAF sensor, replaced Alternator

This is a Winter beater. I will typically park this vehicle in April, and get back to it during the Fall to make sure everything's okay. I replaced the HPFP this summer. I bought the car used, and it already had one in. I replaced it with the Corksport one I bought and also did the E85 seal conversion on the HPFP at the same time. Started the car after the HPFP install: no fuel leaks, no issues. Everything seemed alright. I left the vehicle in place. Came back last week to get started on the vehicle, and it was behaving oddly.

I store it without electricity, so after installing a battery and getting the car started, it was behaving oddly. Boost wouldn't go above 12PSI. Car idled alright. It just felt anemic. On a lark, I reflashed the vehicle with my tune, but it didn't really feel much different. It was only hitting ~12PSI. I shut it off, and told a friend of mine he could borrow it while his car is being worked on.

The next day, I got in my car to go somewhere, and everything started normally. I got on my main road, and hit boost cut in first gear, and then again in second. That wasn't normal. It felt amazing, but definitely not what it should have been doing. I loaned it to my friend, telling him "hey, be careful. This hits boost cut, and I don't know why." He's been careful with it. Just needed something to get around in.

I am at his house a few days later to help him with something, and he arrives after me. The car is idling like garbage, and there's smoke coming from under the hood. The exhaust sounds awful. Spotty, maybe even backfiring. I pop the hood, and there's a fire. Some of the insulation fell away from the firewall when I was working on the alternator. Still, the car is idling awful, and can barely get out of its own way. I pull the codes p2177, p2187, and p0234.

I let it cool off, and then try to drive it. Starts cold just fine. The idle is normal, no rod knock, just normal engine sounds. I let it warm up, and then give it some gas while in neutral. It bogs and bucks. Sounds like a backfire from the intake. Barely generates 2PSI. The car can be driven under vacuum, but the instant you go above 0PSI, the car bogs down, almost stalls, and sounds like it backfires. I can hear the turbo start to spool, but never gets to the fun part.

I did some reading, and thought it could be the MAF, or maybe coils or engine ground, so I bought 4 different MAFs from junk yards in the area. I also bought a set of JY ignition coils and a new set of NGK spark plugs. Just this evening, I replaced the MAF with a JY MAF, replaced the plugs and ignition coils, and no change. It starts cold just fine, idles good, but as soon as you go over 0PSI, it bogs down almost stalling. While I was under the intercooler, I tested all the plugs to make sure they were functioning. Pulling each plug wire, I could hear that they were each properly firing. I've tried all the MAF sensors I bought. Surely all of them can't be bad.

I'm presuming there is still a vacuum leak somewhere. I'm confused because it was running so well until it wasn't, and nothing else makes sense. Any help would be appreciated. I want to get this thing running before Winter. My Summer car is an S2000 and it's never seen snow.

Oh, edit: fuel pressure shows ~1600. AFR shows ~14.7 at idle. Vacuum shows -9 PSI at idle. I can barely get boost above 0 when driving. Can't get boost above 0 at all when in neutral. Throttle response feels anemic in neutral.
 
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You need to list out what the codes mean.

Hate to say it but your bud was NOT careful with it if he brought it back on fucking fire. Lmao

He beat it up despite what you said and now it's very likely to be seriously hurt.

Post an idle log.
 
Waste gate is sticking causing the turbo to do all kinds of funky stuff based on the fact it's just sat and the problem happened.. Otherwise you need to log is and look at fuel trims, O2 sensor operation. you validate the front O2 based on the rears reading when warmed up.
Cause it could be the front O2 isn't working or its partially failed causing improper feed back to the ECU.
 
Thank you both for the responses. The car is at my friend's place, and I'll be able to get my hands on it later next week. I'll definitely get the logs pulled.

Any recommendations on what I should be logging? I have no experience with Accessport, and I seem to remember that only so many things can be recorded at the same time.

To be clear: I have never looked at the accessport for a usb port before. This is the model I have. Does it have a mini usb on the side?1000008314.jpg
 
Easter Bunny said:
All of the maf s are from speeds right?
Click to expand...
To my knowledge, yes. All the MAFs I have tried (I have three from used vehicles, including my original) are from Mazdaspeeds. Printed on the top is the following:

L3K9 197400-2240

It's got the same inscription as the original MAF I had when the vehicle ran properly.

I'm attaching three .CSV files. The first (datalog30.csv) is a cold start, the second (datalog31.csv) is just at idle, and the third is stomping the gas. The car presently idles like shit.

Edit instead of bumping since I can't reply to myself :)

**adding more logs below**

Here's another log I just took. It's at running temp. At idle, it seems to miss, which is new. RPMs drop down to ~400 (datalog33.csv)

I took a look at the log and realized that not all sensors were being logged, so did another log. This is a prolonged idle period (datalog36.csv)

This is a log of me trying to drive the vehicle. I can barely get above 25mph. If I try to go above boost, I am hearing what sounds like a backfire through my intake. No explosion, just a "poof" noise and the vehicle jumps a little.

After the first datalog, a p0300 (random misfire) code was thrown. That's a first. I reset it, and continued with the rest of the logging (36 and 37)

Edit: I tried some WOT pulls in second gear in datalog37.csv at 113 - 117 seconds. The AFR never goes below 14, Injector Duty never goes above 20%, and throttle position never goes above 21%. I can hear the turbo trying to spool, but it's intermittently interrupted with puffs coming from the intake.

Again, I really appreciate any hints that anybody can provide. Thanks!
 

Attachments

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Log 36 shows you have low rail pressure; either the HPFP has issues or your PRV has issues. It's actually a bit on the high side for HPFP issues, so it might actually just be the PRV.
This is what's causing you to be unable to drive the car properly, and what's causing the misfires. You *CAN* still drive it, but you must keep the throttle input low and keep it below 3k RPMs to do so. I'd honestly only drive it in an emergency, and one where you don't need to get there in a hurry.
 
Hey thanks! I just installed a Corksport HPFP in July, and the vehicle was behaving semi-normally before this issue developed.

Out of curiosity, in the CSV I uploaded, which figure are you seeing that is concerning? I am presuming "HPFP Act. Press" (Not sure what "Act." means. Actual?) should be higher, but am unsure as to how high. If you don't mind, what's "des. press." mean as well?

Thanks! I'll see if I can pick one up soon.
 
Correct; des is targeted, act is actual.
At idle, it should be near 400 or so.

When you assembed the HPFP internals, what did you use for lubrication?
 
There's no photo on your post, but its a brass tube coming off the rail and connected to the HPFP via a hose with yellow/neon yellow clips.

I would pull the HPFP, take apart the internals and spill valve and clean them with lighter fluid (naphtha) then lubricate them with Redline injector cleaner (a tiny bottle will be fine; you don't need much). When you go to put the HPFP back on the car, make sure the spill valve nut (32mm) is loose so you can fill that cavity to the bottom thread with the Redline before reinstalling the spill valve. This will help ensure that it stays lubricated properly for quite a long time.

If this doesn't work, it's your spill valve for sure at that point, but the behavior in the logs is a little odd to put it lightly. Hopefully just cleaning the HPFP will sort things out.

Oh and look for scoring on the internals. If it's all scratched/rubbed up real bad, you might need to warranty them.
 
D'oh. Check the photo again. I attached after posting.

I did a full disassembly and cleaned everything less than 100 miles ago on the HPFP. Corksport was kind enough to include an E85 conversion/rebuild gasket kit for free with the HPFP kit, so I just cleaned it with carb/choke cleaner and q-tips. Man, if it's scored up, I'm going to be so sad :(

So it's either a PRV or the hpfp. I would be really surprised about the HPFP, but I'll take a look. About filling the spill valve: I wish corksport had mentioned that in the instructions.

On that note, it seemed like the HPFP non-fuel-touching side was going to be consistently exposed to engine oil during operation. Is that not the case?

One final question: you'd mentioned that the logs were more than a little odd. I presume that's due to the lack of pressure. Is there something else strange in there I should be concerned with?
 
Don't use carb cleaner to clean HPFP parts. The tolerances are tighter than what normal oil can provide adequate lubrication for, and the temperatures get high enough to break it down and turn it into black and/or sticky death that causes HPFP issues.

To get actual longevity out of the HPFP between cleanings, do what I've outlined above, using the materials/lubricants suggested.

As for the logs, it's odd because in the cold start log, the idle pressure looks fine; when you said it idled like shit, did you mean during the cold start too? It def looks like something is off with how the AFR is changing constantly but that doesn't line up with the fuel pressure too much. That suggests there might be another issue at play here, but I'm not sure what.

If you wiggle the MAF wires while idling, does the idle change or sound different?
 
Enki said:
As for the logs, it's odd because in the cold start log, the idle pressure looks fine; when you said it idled like shit, did you mean during the cold start too? It def looks like something is off with how the AFR is changing constantly but that doesn't line up with the fuel pressure too much. That suggests there might be another issue at play here, but I'm not sure what.

If you wiggle the MAF wires while idling, does the idle change or sound different?
Click to expand...

The car actually feels pretty good until it warms up, though there's a bit of a stumble still. It seems to idle and respond to accelerator inputs alright until it warms up, and then things get weird. In one of the logs, the engine RPM would momentarily dip to 400 RPM, and then it would catch itself, which is a strange issue.

I'll have to check the MAF plug next time I'm out there. If wiggling the MAF wires has any results, I presume I'll need to replace the plug or wires to the MAF.
 
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