3rd turbo...

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Lex2007

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Hey Gents,

My 2007 has 170k miles.

No engine mods. Original CLUTCH!

I am on my 2nd stock turbo which is now leaking oil badly. Trans is soaked and its dripping onto the heat shield of the exhaust manifold.

Is it safe to install a Cork Sport 3/6 CST4 Turbo or equivalent and upgraded HPFP internals without also installing new injectors, without a new fuel pump, and without new ignition coils?

My fuel pump, coils and injectors are original. Only the spark plugs have been changed.

Not sure I wanna spend $4k on this old baby but the turbo definitely needs to come out again.

I still love driving her!!! All these years later.


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Before condemning the turbo make sure you don't have any leaks above it. Also pull the intake off and look for oil inside possibly coming from the Valve cover vent. After that do a leak down test on the motor. Not just a compression check. My speed 6 had a leak like that, the motor had blow by issues pushing oil out the valve cover vent.. My stock turbo went back on the car after I rebuilt the motor and it's given me another 50,000kms of service.
 
Valve cover vent? Never even heard of this. The car is stock and I always do 3-5k oil changes with Mobile1 or equivalent. Id be bummed of the motor had blow by at 170k.

Thanks so much for the tip....will look for that vent this weekend.

I added some UV dye as well to help pinpoint.

Last time this happened it was the turbo leaking onto the cat shield and burning up. Its more intense now so maybe its not the turbo.
 
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Valve cover vent? Never even heard of this. The car is stock and I always do 3-5k oil changes with Mobile1 or equivalent. Id be bummed of the motor had blow by at 170k.

Thanks so much for the tip....will look for that vent this weekend.

I added some UV dye as well to help pinpoint.

Last time this happened it was the turbo leaking onto the cat shield and burning up. Its more intense now so maybe its not the turbo.
It's the line going from the valve cover to the intake before the turbo. It's part of the PCV system.

even if this isn't your problem it's go to do this kind of health check before going down the rabbit hole of an upgraded turbo.

All motors have blowby
When you've got 2 cylinder that show good compression but have 60 - 70% leak down readings. You'll have an excessive amount of blow by.. This gets vented through the valve cover and in to the intake pre-turbo.. That extra blow by pushes oil out that gets sucked up by the turbo and run though the intercooler.. It'll also collect and drip out of the intake pipe and turbo where the OP turbo is dripping..

It's common for these motors to have sticky/carboned up oil control rings that cause this.. Generally speaking, this carbon is to hardened to be cleaned by any kind of chemical or flush.
 
The line going from the valve cover to the intake before the turbo. Got it.

ok so its a hardline with gaskets or rubber?

I am on my second round of Valvoline Restore and Protect...if it is the rings, maybe this will do the trick. :praying:
 
If I had massive blow-by and oil being pushed into the turbo intake via the PCV vent valve wouldn't the engine produce blue smoke? I have non and lose maybe 1/2 a quart between 3-4000 mile oil changes.
No it wont.. We aren't talking about some kind of massive leak.. If your turbo was leaking, you'd likely be loosing more oil then that... 1/2 a quart in 3 - 4000 miles is pretty good for a used motor. Brand new cars can burn that much oil and the manufacture would consider it "normal"
 
ok so its not massive enough to cause blue smoke but its making a mess.

I'm on my 3rd PCV valve in 170 k miles. So hopefully that is working correctly.

Ill take everything off tomorrow and look for leaks.
 
I drove a 50 miles with UV dye in the car...not much to report. I see that its leaking but its still not evident from where. Need to drive it more.

I used my UV Beast light (:heart:) and took some pics.

Under the turbo a few spots on the coolant line to the turbo and HVAC coolant line.
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More spots on the bell housing.

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I saw no oil leaks when looking from the top of the motor. Not sure why the top of the pressure sensor line was glowing , it wasn't even wet.

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UV Die can be miss leading. Engine oil will glow with out the die in it. Even though it wont be as bright. Coolant will glow brightly. Old leaks that were fixed but not well cleaned up can show up and send you down rabbit holes.. The key to finding leaks is to clean everything very very well..
 
Clean what? That's the problem. I cannot pinpoint the origin. Even the dye isn't showing me a clear origin. I will drive it some more and see if I get better clues.
 
Clean what? That's the problem. I cannot pinpoint the origin. Even the dye isn't showing me a clear origin. I will drive it some more and see if I get better clues.
The engine bay especially everywhere you see oil present.. You want it clean, with no signs of oil residue.. Usually takes a pressure washer and super clean, then some brake clean and compressed air..

this way you'll see fresh oil and know for sure where its coming from.
 
Its all really fresh honestly, but its origin isnt clear hence the UV dye.
I've seen this kind of mistake a bunch.. When mechanics don't clean a previous oil leak a bunch while diagnosing a leak... Last month I found a leak a friends Subaru that 2 shops couldn't find.. Clean it all up as spotless as possible..
 
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