600whp Mazdaspeed3

Update:
I will be putting my motor all back together this week and start putting it back in my car by then end of this month. i wanted to check everything i did with assembly and reassembled and everything was in perfect and no hassle going back together.

I’m just waiting on a few more small things and it should be up and running soon. i can’t wait to open up my hood and just see all the pretty parts on and to hear this thing lol

I did edit a few things in the mod list above and listened to a few of yall!
 
Another update once again, so I had ran 255/35r19 of Michelin Cup 2 tires on some 19s and it gripped up really good but they are expensive. I loved the look but i am now going back to the sleeper look i’ve wanted and going back to my stocks, (wish they were wider) but there not.

I have used Nitto NT05 and NT555G2 on my stocks (235/40r18) and loved them and i’ll be trying out some NT01 same size as what i’ve used before on stocks. I loved running 19s but man those tires were expensive and I love the sleeper better lol

But yes as dinnerplate asked above about how to put the power down, 235/40 NT01 on stock wheels, still on BC coilovers and I do have the stage 2 rear motor mount from CS and it helps ALOT. I want the passenger and transmission mounts from CS too to complete the set and hopefully keep the power down better.

I took my mudflaps off and carbon wing and carbon hood scoop off to fully complete that sleeper look. Should be one badass car when finished!
 
I finally got the passenger side and transmission mounts from corksport. Also my kelford dlc coated cam buckets get here on the 5th in the correct size for valve lash. I will have the motor in the car that day hopefully or the next day! Im super excited to hear and see my car running, this build has been in my mind since i got the car and is in progress and not done yet, cant wait for tuning. I will have more uodates soon and will post all the pictures in this thread afters its all running and together.
 
Another update, so the buckets came in yesterday and I got the motor completed and I am putting the clutch on and trans on the motor today. I just did order a CS exhaust manifold and I'm just not going to mess with any tubular manifold no matter how cheap or expensive. Hopefully that ewg placement will help along with all the other good benefits with that manifold. Ill get everything ready by today and just wait till i get the manifold so i can install that then put my motor in. This thing will be a monster and be capable of 800hp in the future too.
 
Okay so big update. I got everything in and together.. The car will crank but start then dies because of no fuel pressure. I got a P0091 and replaced my spill valve with a cleaned working one and nothing changed. No matter if the spill valve is plugged in or not the issue occurs. So the car is perfect but then it wont start lmao
 
ITFP pressure; pull the HPFP and clean it. It's been sitting for a while, so not super surprised it's not responding, esp if it was left full of fuel/oil. I would do this on a rebuild anyways.

Edit:
Since it sat for a while, make sure the spring tension is still there and that it's not stuck compressed too much.
 
So my car was sitting for 7 months with about a gallon of fuel in the tank but I did clean the hpfp before it went back in the car. Put a new spill valve in too but what gets me is when I unplug the spill valve I get the P0091 and when I plug it back in I get the same code. Car behaves the same with or without the spill valve plugged in. Could it be a wiring issue or...
 
Can you manually actuate the needle in the spill valve? Should move using your thumbnail but should not "click" or stick when you do.
 
Yes on both spill valves I have and tried. Still same P0091. So that code is Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low. There is a low voltage with that sensor and the ECU is seeing the low voltage when its not connected which would be correct then when its connected it sees low voltage which is odd. So that's why I was thinking wiring and its being shorted out. A short to ground somewhere maybe or a bad power wire not sending enough voltage to operate the solenoid?
 
You should have enough fuel to start the car with the HPFP non-functional, will just take a bit to get it trimmed there. On a running engine, if the HPFP doesn't start working after a few seconds of idling, I'd start looking into the wiring.
 
Yall… The car runs drives feels good, sounds sick but im leaking oil… I think its a rear main because im leaking between the trans and motor or dripping from somewhere else. This actually sucks too because the car runs perfect and I really dont wanna tear it apart again.
 
Kri$py said:
Yall… The car runs drives feels good, sounds sick but im leaking oil… I think its a rear main because im leaking between the trans and motor or dripping from somewhere else. This actually sucks too because the car runs perfect and I really dont wanna tear it apart again.
Click to expand...

Is it coming out of the weep hole between the two? If yes then 99% rear main seal, if no then it’s not.
 
Yes coming out the little hole between the 2, im fixing it then getting back to tuning.
 
Update… So I am in the process of fixing the rear main seal. Also ordered new intercooler piping couplers to fix that situation and it not staying on correctly. And here I am pulling my plugs out, 1000 miles of break in done and the plugs are all BLACK and #1 is BLACK BLACK. Also P0301 so thats great and when driving the check engine light would flash for the P0301, love smelling fuel at idle. Ill check compression to make sure we are good on that but still could I have any bad sensors causing running too rich or is just running rich normal on built engine with big cams.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top