Bad timing chain job?

Bobbytron21

Bobbytron21

Greenie N00B Member
I have done a fresh timing chain job, new vvt actuator and every step was done with care. Before and after the job sadly, I have an over retarded timing code (p0012 i believe). I made sure the 20th tooth is lined up and I have a feeling I have an oil pressure issue? On days that are 85 degrees and up my idle drops a little too low and my check oil light starts to sputter even though oil levels haven’t dropped. I don’t want to drive the car in this condition but I’m not sure where to start, which is why I’m here. Should I bite the bullet and do the oil pump and redo the timing? Do I have a cooling issue that’s letting my oil get too thin effecting the vvt actuator? I’m not the most experienced mechanic and probably overlooking something, I sadly don’t have an access port and can’t check temperatures or oil pressure. any advice on what to check or replace would help me tons as I’m at a loss.
 
Bobbytron21 said:
I have done a fresh timing chain job, new vvt actuator and every step was done with care. Before and after the job sadly, I have an over retarded timing code (p0012 i believe). I made sure the 20th tooth is lined up and I have a feeling I have an oil pressure issue? On days that are 85 degrees and up my idle drops a little too low and my check oil light starts to sputter even though oil levels haven’t dropped. I don’t want to drive the car in this condition but I’m not sure where to start, which is why I’m here. Should I bite the bullet and do the oil pump and redo the timing? Do I have a cooling issue that’s letting my oil get too thin effecting the vvt actuator? I’m not the most experienced mechanic and probably overlooking something, I sadly don’t have an access port and can’t check temperatures or oil pressure. any advice on what to check or replace would help me tons as I’m at a loss.
Click to expand...
Big question. OEM kit, right?
 
Hi everyone, I just wanted to give this thread another try as I still have the same issue. I did follow the Roku tutorial beth carefully, and the crank cam lines up on the 20th tooth perfectly. I’m pulling the valve cover off soon to peek at the cams, maybe pulling the hpfp out to put the timing tool on to be extra sure.. but if it is a matter of the cams not being lined up do I need to pull the timing cover off and restart? I don’t mind if that’s what had to be done, but if I can do it without touching the crank bolt whatsoever I’ll be very happy. In other news, I bumped up to 5w-40 and oil pressure is no longer an issue, and my baby k04 stopped smoking (still burning oil bad). I want to upgrade to a bsnr4v1, but I want to get this code to stop stressing me out first. Any wisdom helps!
 
It’s worth taking off the valve cover and having a look at the cams at least. I probably have a photo of them in correct time to visually compare to.

If they’re out of time, I’m not sure if it’s possible to adjust the cam position with the cover on. There’s enough room to get the exhaust cam bolt but I can’t remember if there’s enough room to get to the VVT gear bolt. Even if so you might have chain tension issues fighting against you. And in theory you’d want to replace the friction washers which wouldn’t be possible with the chain under tension. I wouldn’t recommend it but you might be adventurous enough to try…

As far as the crank bolt, the Harbor Freight corded impact wrench (Bauer) makes quick work of it. You can set the torque to spec as normal and then do the additional angle using the Bauer. That’s what I did.
 
Due to life getting busy, my spring timing chain project is now becoming a fall project instead, and I've been re-reading some of the timing chain related posts before I get started.

For the issue in this thread, pulling the valve cover to check things definitely sounds like the first step, even though you'll probably end up going further. At least you can get it to TDC and check the cam alignment. Could P0012 be a bad VVT? New doesn't necessarily mean you didn't get a crap part right out of the package, although I don't think I've ever heard of anyone running into that before.

I've also been wondering about torquing the crank bolt and using an impact. When you torque it down during assembly the additional 90, is it safe to do that with an impact? Or use a breaker bar? I'm not opposed to buying more tools for the job, that's 1/2 the fun of DIY, but if I can try hitting it with my Milwaukee cordless impact first and save myself some strains and headaches, I'm all for that.
 
deuceWI said:
I've also been wondering about torquing the crank bolt and using an impact. When you torque it down during assembly the additional 90, is it safe to do that with an impact? Or use a breaker bar?
Click to expand...

I’ve done it multiple times and I’ve seen/read others do it. You just need to make sure your impact has enough power to get the full angle. I recommend the Harbor Freight Corded Bauer simply because I can verify that it does work (literally just enough…) and it’s relatively cheap.
 
funny enough battery impacts can be much more powerful than plug in ones due to the available power not being limited by normal household electric.
 
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