Battery Relocation

StreetSpeed6

Diesel Slayer
Silver Member
Greenie N00B Member
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Ok, so this is a pretty basic how-to to do, but thought it might help reassure some newer people how it is very straight forward and easy.

So first thing is the supplies! I couldn’t seem to find the gauge of wire I wanted for sale in my small town, so I used jumper cables that had 2 gauge wire.
— Heavy gauge wire (I used 2ga.)
(anything I would assume heavier than 8 would probably be fine)
— new or used battery terminals
— electrical tape
— couple wrenches
(Some terminals use new wing nut styles though)
— cutters to cut for the wire
— wire crimpers (or pocket knife)
— the old battery tray
— a few self tappers
(for the battery tray to be held down to the trunk)

So first I prepped the jumper cables by cutting them into single wires and cutting the clamps off the ends.

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Then, I fed the cable through the firewall. There is a rubber pass through for a wiring harness up and to the left of the clutch pedal. Cut or drill a small hole in it to feed the positive cable through.

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My car is filthy so ignore the 2 floor mats attempting to save the actual carpet lol

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Once it is fed through then you can expose some wire at the end and connect it to the wires that the terminal end was on. Begin removing the trim in the door jams by simply pulling up on it on the inside most part (use something flat to put under the other side while pulling up).

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Lay the wiring next to the other bundle of wires and follow it back down the car. Tuck it into the edge of the seat all the way down and back into the trunk.

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This is how much extra from 16ft so you would probably only need 12ft of positive cable and 1 to 2ft of ground cable. (Yes someone lined my entire trunk with Fat Mat before I got it and yes it makes it sound amazing lol) Then, just make a small hole in the trunk liner, push it through, and ground the negitive cable to the car somewhere.



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Screw down the old battery tray where u would like and just hook it all up!!

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Very easy and makes a ton of engine bay room IMO. Definitely loving it so far and will be making something to hold the battery more securely. It works for now, but would advise anyone doing this to always secure the battery as well as possible.
Sorry for the filthy car but doesn’t get cleaned up much in the winter time. Hope this write up helps answer any questions for people who are curious.
I will be doing a ton more since I am about to build my car so let me know if anyone has something they would like to see a how-to on! I’ll be doing built motor, top mounted big turbo, clutch w/ flywheel, Wilwood BBK (thanks again MSO!) and some suspension things as well.
 

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You need a fuse at the battery, and you can use another fuse holder up front to connect your new wire to the oem battery cable..

Also, get a vented battery box if you're running a vented battery. It will outgas during charging, and H2 and O2 in confined spaces is not good.
 
You need a fuse at the battery, and you can use another fuse holder up front to connect your new wire to the oem battery cable..

Also, get a vented battery box if you're running a vented battery. It will outgas during charging, and H2 and O2 in confined spaces is not good.
Thanks. What size fuse you think? 50-60 or so be enough?
 
Oh alright thanks. The last fuse I ran in-line like that was somewhere close to that but it’s been a while and I had forgot lol
 
Are you going to put it in a box? typically you want to vent them to the outside due to the poisonous gas they put off....
 
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Not sure on your battery group size but walmart has some cheap ones then you can vent it properly.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Power-Guard-27-Battery-Box/16351062

That wire you used might not be hefty enough as it is CCA "copper clad aluminum" so that is more comparable to 6AWG Pure Copper wire. Just a heads up. You for sure need a fuse on the hot wire going to the engine. You will want it as close the the battery as possible.
CLEAN YOUR CARPET!!!!
 
Not sure on your battery group size but walmart has some cheap ones then you can vent it properly.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Attwood-Power-Guard-27-Battery-Box/16351062

That wire you used might not be hefty enough as it is CCA "copper clad aluminum" so that is more comparable to 6AWG Pure Copper wire. Just a heads up. You for sure need a fuse on the hot wire going to the engine. You will want it as close the the battery as possible.
CLEAN YOUR CARPET!!!!
Definitely getting a fuse soon and haven’t decided on a box or not yet. If I run a vented battery I will most likely take my sunroof drain off (it’s fairly close to where the battery is mounted under the liner in the corner) and tap into that. Lastly, I need to clean it, ik man, but it’s a daily and winter so it happens lol That is why I have 2 floor mats down.
 
I applaud your ghetto fabulous efforts, but be mindful of a few things.

If those painted terminals are from the local auto part stores, check the actual paint for continuity. I purchased a set of those at autozone once. I started having power flickering issues at first startup. It turns out THAT particular paint was non-conductive and wasn't letting any power go through it.

In my situation, I ran auxiliary cables too. I tossed those painted shits and got regular terminals, problem solved.

So again, check the paint for continuity because it would suck to find out on the day you need a jump start to work.

Also keep an eye on that wire. Not sure if jumper wire is supposed to carry load for long periods of time. Once I used some fancy flexible wiring (meant for audio), and the cable melted because it was made for electrical loads in short periods vs extended time. Damn near caused a fire in the car.
 
I applaud your ghetto fabulous efforts, but be mindful of a few things.

If those painted terminals are from the local auto part stores, check the actual paint for continuity. I purchased a set of those at autozone once. I started having power flickering issues at first startup. It turns out THAT particular paint was non-conductive and wasn't letting any power go through it.

In my situation, I ran auxiliary cables too. I tossed those painted shits and got regular terminals, problem solved.

So again, check the paint for continuity because it would suck to find out on the day you need a jump start to work.

Also keep an eye on that wire. Not sure if jumper wire is supposed to carry load for long periods of time. Once I used some fancy flexible wiring (meant for audio), and the cable melted because it was made for electrical loads in short periods vs extended time. Damn near caused a fire in the car.

Lol Thanks for the laugh and haven’t had any issues thus far but I have no problems taking the paint off if I have to. Just thought it might look a little nicer than my crappy old ones I had that were two completely different terminals with different size bolts and all. It drove me crazy so bought new ones.
As for the cables, that is why I went with a heavier gauge to make sure if that were somewhat the case that it could handle it. So far it has been golden and everything is going good. I bought that battery this past spring but I am going ahead and buying another one as soon as I can since that is an improper battery for the trunk. I do use/open my trunk a decent bit though so atleast once every 2-3 days I have it open for a little bit a couple times. I’ll probably run a vent tube to my sunroof drain tho when I get ANOTHER new battery haha
 
YOLO!! Hahaha I am going to keep a close eye on everything until I get another battery. Have u looked at the actual wire size going to the battery terminal and fuse box in the engine bay? It’s probably about an 8-10ga. so I feel pretty confident in my wire size as well.
 
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