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Yeah... If that's at TDC your VVT needs to be replaced.
Also... I think that's a Hitachi, 1986-91 Mazda RX 7 Turbo II HT18S-2SF Turbo
Yeah - The chain seemed fine, then it made a ton of noise one morning on a short drive. Pulled it over and had it towed home. I haven't had time to open it all the way up, but it doesn't appear to have skipped timing and not TOO much flake in the oil, which I'm hoping was just from the contact with the VC. Going to dig deeper this weekend before ordering VVT kit vs "new" engine.
If she slaps she claps. Swap it out. Wouldn't take the chance. It's fairly easy if you are mechanically inclined. Ask all the questions you want for VVT. I gotcha fam.
Appreciate it. Yeah - she's docked with oil drained and parts coming off. It's rotating freely, but the flakes in the oil were just enough to make me hold off on ordering anything before I dig further. The metal looked bronze in color, so I'm thinking turbo/discolored VC material from chain contact based on the bearings being aluminum - according to my understanding.
I've done plenty of timing and head jobs on 2UZ-FE, Hondas, Subaru, etc., so I'm not that intimidated by the job. If you have any feedback on whether going OEM is worth it on all parts or if there are better alternatives, I'd definitely appreciate that. Want to do it right, obviously, but the aftermarket seems to be ahead of Mazda engineering in some regards.
Based on the metal, think it's worth pulling the oil pan to investigate/clean it out? I haven't poked around a lot under the car, but the internet writeups make it seem like a PITA - not hard, just kind of tedious with loosening the trans bolts to create a gap and then FIP gasketing it back in. I despise doing FIP gaskets.
Good news for you on experience doing timing. These are a little more nerve racking because of the crank and cams not being keyed.
I've never been against dropping the pan to inspect during a VVT job. It is tedious for sure and has the potential for leaks after the fact if you don't add enough sealant at the rear main. It does add to the already extensive job you're doing, however, it's not a bad thing to look into. If the VVT is completely in tact I wouldn't bother with the pan. If it's broken and missing parts that you can't find, then I highly recommend dropping the pan and searching for missing pieces.
As far as VVT goes, ALWAYS OEM! Go through Edge for the VVT kit and call it a day. FIP gasket sucks but, IMO getting the permatex ultra black never fails. It is a PITA for sure. I did just walk another member through doing his VVT and Definitely found loop holes in my write up (which I still need to correct), but his came out fine.
i need a video of said viking burial
Dang!
Pan... I bet you could buff that out lol.
I must say you are now truly a member of the community.
I drove it from my barn to my garage with those holes in the block and pan haha. Poured some sacrificial driveway oil in and she fired right up. Couldn't believe it. Hope the filter/catch can did their jobs, but I think a turbo rebuild will be on the list after that act of laziness.
Dang!
Pan... I bet you could buff that out lol.
I must say you are now truly a member of the community.
I just bought a wrecked 6 with good motor/trans for $800. NOW I feel like a member of the community. I can see how y'all accumulate so many worthless parts on shelves owning these things. Planning to use the shell as a table-top for my dirtbike track unless somebody wants a huge mailbox.