Bucking issue

BlueSpeed3

Greenie N00B Member
Greenie Member
I’ve been having a buck/hesitation issue that only happens during spirited driving. I can drive around town perfectly fine and car runs good but as soon as I try use some boost it starts to cut out and just buck like a misfire. I’ve replaced my spark plugs with a gap of .028 and tried cleaning maf sensor and used a fuel injector cleaner still nothing. I’m very lost in what I should do.
 
Have you checked for leaks? Intake / boost piping. Do you have a way to view long term fuel trims by chance? How many miles? What mods?
 
Have you checked for leaks? Intake / boost piping. Do you have a way to view long term fuel trims by chance? How many miles? What mods?
I haven’t done anything like that yet I’m not too sure how to. Do I need a special tool to check for leaks or anything? Car has 217k km’s on it. Mods include corksport hpfp internals, corksport power series intake with turbo inlet, turbosmart 50/50 bob with recirc kit, eBay catless downpipe, banjo bolt, rear motor mount, freektune ots plus map on 91. Yes I have an accessport v3.
 
Check you MAF sensor maybe. I was having the same issues and lot of it was from having an AEM MAF. Properly gapped plugs and good coils is another thing that might be a factor.
 
I haven’t done anything like that yet I’m not too sure how to. Do I need a special tool to check for leaks or anything? Car has 217k km’s on it. Mods include corksport hpfp internals, corksport power series intake with turbo inlet, turbosmart 50/50 bob with recirc kit, eBay catless downpipe, banjo bolt, rear motor mount, freektune ots plus map on 91. Yes I have an accessport v3.
what does your LTFT say at it idle / cruise? the below quote is the number it should be
Pre-turbo = + trims, air added or sucked in
turbo to TP = - trims, air lost or pushed out
post TP = + trims, air added or sucked in

+5 or -5 is ideal
+7 or - 7 not crazy might want to look into it
+10 or -10 look into it , you got a leak
+20 or -20 shits broke yo
to check for leaks you can simply start with a 10mm socket, make sure all hoses and connectors are seated and snug, if your LTFT is < +/- 5 perhaps even 7 based on the above I'd say you can skip this as you don't have a leak.

The other thing I would do is a PRV test, engine needs to be hot here is the how to test:
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217k km, have you ever cleaned your intake valves or injectors? the injector cleaner in the tank doesn't count they need to be pulled and ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested then put back in with new seals. do you smell any fuel in the bay or see anything running down the front side of the engine under the intake manifold? has the VVT been serviced? at that mileage (134k miles for you Americans reading) its also due for service if it hasnt been done
 
Okay will try all of this later. Just curious what my plugs should be gapped to? I have them all at .028 right now. Previous owner said he’s never had any problems with the vvt and I bought it a year ago so it’s never been touched from what I know. Yikes hope it isn’t the vvt how much would that whole job cost? Was planning on changing out turbo and clutch this summer as well.

Okay will try all of this later. Just curious what my plugs should be gapped to? I have them all at .028 right now. Previous owner said he’s never had any problems with the vvt and I bought it a year ago so it’s never been touched from what I know. Yikes hope it isn’t the vvt how much would that whole job cost? Was planning on changing out turbo and clutch this summer as well.
Also, to mention as well last time I cleaned my maf sensor the o ring broke. For a cheap fix I used a rubber band about the same size and wrapped it tight where the o ring would go. Could this cause an issue related to what’s happening?
 
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Also, to mention as well last time I cleaned my maf sensor the o ring broke. For a cheap fix I used a rubber band about the same size and wrapped it tight where the o ring would go. Could this cause an issue related to what’s happening?
sure could! I have had my CS intake chew through 2 o-rings so far, worth replacing with an actual one, dealerhsip can order them
also see this thread for alternatives
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/maf-sensor-o-ring.4501/

plugs should be gapped to 0.026-0.028" which is probably the exact same as justin told you when doing the ots+ map, if the last owner didnt do vvt "because he didnt have issue" id bet its time for it.
 
sure could! I have had my CS intake chew through 2 o-rings so far, worth replacing with an actual one, dealerhsip can order them
also see this thread for alternatives
https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/maf-sensor-o-ring.4501/

plugs should be gapped to 0.026-0.028" which is probably the exact same as justin told you when doing the ots+ map, if the last owner didnt do vvt "because he didnt have issue" id bet its time for it.
yeah VVT was another job I did that helped with the issue. When mine was doing it, definitely seemed like a combination of factors.

Okay will try all of this later. Just curious what my plugs should be gapped to? I have them all at .028 right now. Previous owner said he’s never had any problems with the vvt and I bought it a year ago so it’s never been touched from what I know. Yikes hope it isn’t the vvt how much would that whole job cost? Was planning on changing out turbo and clutch this summer as well.


Also, to mention as well last time I cleaned my maf sensor the o ring broke. For a cheap fix I used a rubber band about the same size and wrapped it tight where the o ring would go. Could this cause an issue related to what’s happening?
Edge sells the VVT kit for about 500$, with all OEM parts. There’s a write up on here that I’ll find and link that has a walkthrough. If you have done some mods it’s definitely doable if you want to save some money. It’s a tough job but if you live by someone who’s done it before that could help. Depending on labor prices you’d be looking at 1500+ if you have a shop do it.

Here’s the link to the VVT write up. Give it a look and see if it seems like something you could do. https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?t...eed-3-mazdaspeed-6-cx-7-vvt-the-roku-way.855/
 
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Definitely not something I would try myself haha. I know for a fact I will be able to do my own turbo because I’ve heard it’s about the same difficulty as doing your downpipe. Not too sure about clutch but I may give that a go. Timing is something I definitely don’t want to f up so I’ll have a shop do it eventually. Spark plugs are good then, will try the o ring and go from there.
 
Definitely not something I would try myself haha. I know for a fact I will be able to do my own turbo because I’ve heard it’s about the same difficulty as doing your downpipe. Not too sure about clutch but I may give that a go. Timing is something I definitely don’t want to f up so I’ll have a shop do it eventually. Spark plugs are good then, will try the o ring and go from there.
Keep us updated with what you find out! Yeah the timing was definitely more sketchy than the clutch haha. I f’d-up a 97’ CX Hatch timing when I did that motor haha.
 
Update guys I found a couple o rings for my maf sensor at work to try out and sure enough I think it fixed the problem!! Ltft looks fine no leaks or anything and the car pulls smoother than ever with the new plugs I installed the other night while I was having this problem. Will keep monitoring but did not expect this to do the trick!!!
 
Stupid things cause annoying problems... Always replace o-rings with appropriate ones... Glad it's working well for you now
 
Stupid things cause annoying problems... Always replace o-rings with appropriate ones... Glad it's working well for you now
Yes for sure. It isn’t the correct o ring so I will get one on order right away but this should work for now haha
 
I didnt want to take credit for sourcing out the sizing. All I did was Google it.
 
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