Building for the road course...again

[L337TurboZ]

Maybe try this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-repack-front-hub-75372/

Using some high temperature synthetic grease might help keep the temperature down and the bearing lubricated.

 

[gotovato]

Maybe try this:

https://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-repack-front-hub-75372/

Using some high temperature synthetic grease might help keep the temperature down and the bearing lubricated.

The thing is I don’t even think it’s the bearing or anything to do with heat. The hub just cracks. It just breaks. Physically weak I guess. Rear of the car isn’t doing much in terms of braking. Not a whole hell of alot of heat back there I don’t think

 

[Easter Bunny]

Time to sell. I hear Mazdaspeed 3's have stout rear spindles

 

[gotovato]

Time to sell. I hear Mazdaspeed 3's have stout rear spindles

Yea something like that. Gonna replace it and go looking for a longer term solution I guess idk. Engine was loving life out there I’ll say that much at least lol

 

[L337TurboZ]

Contact these guys. If this is a known issue then possibly other Civic guys would do a group buy.

https://www.miatahubs.com/product-page/billet-enduro-rear-hubs

You could always buy a Miata and swap your K series into it. Have the best of both worlds.

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

You can plug axle flanges. It has been done to convert cars from 4 lug to 5 lug. Perhaps that would add strength?
However track is very different to street, unfortunately cars are designed for the street.

 

[L337TurboZ]

You can plug axle flanges. It has been done to convert cars from 4 lug to 5 lug. Perhaps that would add strength?

However track is very different to street, unfortunately cars are designed for the street.

That's not a bad idea. What about using small freeze plugs filled with JB Weld or Moroso Engine putty?

 

[gotovato]

I’m thinking plugging those holes would help some. I’m not sure if it’ll fix it entirely but it should help. If I could get a solid plug made I’d need to also think of how to mount/plug it in there and have it deal with any expansion from heat

 

[L337TurboZ]

I’m thinking plugging those holes would help some. I’m not sure if it’ll fix it entirely but it should help. If I could get a solid plug made I’d need to also think of how to mount/plug it in there and have it deal with any expansion from heat

Freeze plugs deal with heat but not necessarily as high as a braking system gets. Maybe billet? Or just measure the holes, get some steel stock and melt it down into plugs and weld it in from the back.

You'd probably have to have the hub faces balanced afterwards though. Are these cracking due to the stress your tire and wheel setup is putting on them or just because of high heat? Are you running any brake ducting?

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

When you plug flanges, the company welds up and fills the holes creating a solid flange and then redrill the stud holes. Where your flanges are weak seem to be where Honda added the additional "speed holes" prolly to lighten up the component. Basically you would be undoing what Honda screwed up.

A friend had it done on one of his cars, Ill see if I can find out where. It was a long time ago tho.

 

[gotovato]

Freeze plugs deal with heat but not necessarily as high as a braking system gets. Maybe billet? Or just measure the holes, get some steel stock and melt it down into plugs and weld it in from the back.

You'd probably have to have the hub faces balanced afterwards though. Are these cracking due to the stress your tire and wheel setup is putting on them or just because of high heat? Are you running any brake ducting?

So these rear hubs aren’t seeing a ton of heat really. They are seeing some G forces but I think the failure comes from a combination of vibration and the high G forces. I don’t have any ducting for my brakes but I haven’t really found the need for it yet. Brakes are solid

The idea was tossed around to just have a new hub made but these are all one piece design kinda not meant to come apart so im not sure if that’s possible.

Welding probably won’t work. The flange is all of 6mm thick. It’ll distort to hell if it’s welded. I thought of that but a buddy shot it down quickly

 

[gotovato]

When you plug flanges, the company welds up and fills the holes creating a solid flange and then redrill the stud holes. Where your flanges are weak seem to be where Honda added the additional "speed holes" prolly to lighten up the component. Basically you would be undoing what Honda screwed up.

A friend had it done on one of his cars, Ill see if I can find out where. It was a long time ago tho.

This would be a big help if I could have it done. The problem is the hub doesn’t come apart from the bearing assembly. It’s all one piece.

Those stupid holes are definitely part of the problem here

 

[gotovato]

Driver side repaired



Found a nice F U waiting for me on passenger side now…cracks are showing all over. Time to replace I guess



I guess I will add hub inspection to my pre/post track day check list

 

[Easter Bunny]

Honestly a wheel spacers that is solid and gets bolted on might give you enough. You could run a bead of weld around the center too

 

[gotovato]

Honestly a wheel spacers that is solid and gets bolted on might give you enough. You could run a bead of weld around the center too

Was thinking maybe a wheel spacer. Seems pretty simple lol.

I posted on an 8th Gen civic track day fb group and it’s getting a ton of comments. Apparently the 10th gen civic hub may work. It’s solid. No holes. Problem is it uses m12 bolts to mount to the knuckle so I would need to drill mine out to m12. It hasn’t been tested yet but it *could* work

 

[SyntheticAtmosphere]

Maybe give these guys a call, they might have some insight to help.

Forrest & Forrest Racing Machine shop
60 Melair Dr, Ayr, ON
N0B 1E0
519-632-1139

They did a plug and redrill from 4 bolt to 5 bolt on my friends Mustang, car originally ran a 302 V8 doing 13.00s 1/4 before nitrous, now has a Nissan SR20Det. The rear axle has been punished for 10-15 years.

 

[Easter Bunny]

What wheels are you using? If it's cracking from flexing maybe the wheel doesn't contact much of the flange or isnt sitting completely flush and putting extra stress on

 

[gotovato]

Maybe give these guys a call, they might have some insight to help.

Forrest & Forrest Racing Machine shop
60 Melair Dr, Ayr, ON
N0B 1E0
519-632-1139

They did a plug and redrill from 4 bolt to 5 bolt on my friends Mustang, car originally ran a 302 V8 doing 13.00s 1/4 before nitrous, now has a Nissan SR20Det. The rear axle has been punished for 10-15 years.

Those guys did my short block machining. They also have my ported cylinder head(since November lol) but I’m in no rush for it as I’m broke haha. But yea they’re good. They do good work. I can definitely try them

 

[gotovato]

What wheels are you using? If it's cracking from flexing maybe the wheel doesn't contact much of the flange or isnt sitting completely flush and putting extra stress on

You might find this interesting. From the FB post I made,



This seems to make some sense. Mine had some rust dust on it. It’s not rotted out but I guess buddies point is vibrations do not help anything here.

I have some grease I’m gonna try when I replace the passenger side. Will do the driver side as well and see if that helps any

 

[Easter Bunny]

On another car I smeared the face of the hub with antiseize because it would get so nasty. I'm an idiot though too and was forgetting that the brake rotor would be mounted right there a solid wheel spacers would probably be overkill.

I wonder what grade the studs are and if they are maybe not quite strong enough to keep everything 100% tight on the track