Building for the road course...again
- Thread starter gotovato
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gotovato
Greenie Member
If you watch his videos he’s very specific with the rev limit. He’s typically shifting below 8000rpm only going above in those very specific situations where it’s worth it. On a long straight you can shift a little early and it’s not a big deal. Really goes along way.
I also feel he does off season engine swaps and just doesn’t say anything. A lot of the GLTC engine failures you’ll see it in the stream but then it’s never talked about again after. This was brought up on the k20 forums and a lot of theories arose lol
If anything in the future I’d go to an 18” wheel. Width matters, but diameter also brings grip.
That’s why you see those golden era Hondas that come on 14’s but they’re running 17’s on track. Way more grip. More tire life. Better everything.
The beauty of the aim system is I can review my track logs at any time. We can clearly see what rpm I’m using and where, where I stay in it, where I lift. Even 8600rpm gives me problems at the one track. We raised that to 9000 and that landed me P2 with a 450whp wrx behind me and a 300whp wrx infront of me. Can’t argue with that lol.
My other mind set is…HONDA. Who the fuck builds a Honda that you aren’t revving the dick off of? That’s literally why Honda exists. Not for grocery shopping engines that sure they make torque at 4000rpm where I spend maybe 5 tenths of the entire lap. We’ve proven we can make plenty of torque from 4500rpm onwards and we know from my logs my lowest rpm on track is maybe 4400. If I can run that to 9000 without a need to upshift then immediately downshift, that’s tenths of free laptime
Plus rpm is fun. Expensive but fun. That said, all of this bullshit is expensive. We don’t race because it’s cheap that’s for damn sure lol
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Crazycanadian
Greenie Member
It's one of those things. Do you dial it back to help save the motor or keep pushing and accept the shortened life span.
gotovato
Greenie Member
With the oem long blocks im limited to 8500rpm which is a compromise but it’s safe.
The goal is to get a forged engine to 9200 and give me 2 full seasons. That doesn’t sound hard but apparently for Wiseco it’s hard. The new long block should be rock solid but we’ll see when we get there lol. I enjoy being the only 2liter at the track. Everything’s got a k24 or a turbo or it’s a brz/frs.
I like being different even if it is a challenge. I was the only guy like almost on earth time attacking a Mazdaspeed3. That was part of the fun of that car. It was different.
Problem with k24, if I went that route it wouldn’t be a junkyard swap like most guys. It would have to be a full build, forged everything, ported head cause that would be necessary, 8800rpm, and rod bearings every single season. Maybe even rod bolts. It would make 300whp and be fucking disgusting but that’s expensive and the maintenance becomes more involved
gotovato
Greenie Member
It might sound dumb but honestly my favorite engine setup so far was the early 2025 spec.
Oem bottom end with type R oil pump (balance shaft delete), nice valve train, nice stage 2 basic cams. That thing laid down 165wtq and 230whp on my shitty up hill logging road. That setup pulled hard and made so much usable torque from 5-9k.
With the 2026 spec engine it’s mostly the same formula but now we’re adding compression which those cams need. That should bump up torque and hp everywhere.
If I can land around 240whp 170wtq that would be a killer setup
Oem bottom end with type R oil pump (balance shaft delete), nice valve train, nice stage 2 basic cams. That thing laid down 165wtq and 230whp on my shitty up hill logging road. That setup pulled hard and made so much usable torque from 5-9k.
With the 2026 spec engine it’s mostly the same formula but now we’re adding compression which those cams need. That should bump up torque and hp everywhere.
If I can land around 240whp 170wtq that would be a killer setup
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