gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Apparently a weighted socket like this is the answer. I just can’t find one locally and Amazon is like 6 days out on shipping. I’m gonna keep trying to find one for sure
Building for the road course...again
- Thread starter gotovato
- Start date
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I'm trying to find a torque multiplier adapter you can use. When I get back to the shop I'll ask my coworker who has one what the part number is. It rips crank bolts off without hesitation
Are you turning the right way? lol
I got a tool number for you. It's made by Ingersoll-Rand.
Number is: S64M19L-PS1
Lisle also makes a weighted 19mm socket that could work. Hope this helps.
Number is: S64M19L-PS1
Lisle also makes a weighted 19mm socket that could work. Hope this helps.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
I found both tools. Apparently these are the ticket.
it’s too bad it’s going to take me a week to get either. What a pain
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
It’s almost like I’m not. But I am lol. Honda crank bolt is serious I guess
can you possibly link to the model that worked? im looking to buy myself an impact for christmas and dont really know what specs i need.
Code Monkey
Silver Member
M18 Fuel, the current one is rated for 1,400 ft-lbs, I have an older one rated for 1,100 ft-lbs and never came across a bolt I could not remove with it, fingers crossed.
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gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
This is the one
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/Impact-Wrenches/2767-20
Things a total beast. It took it off basically no problem. My mid torque is rated at 550ftlbs removal torque. That thing is rated at 1400ftlbs
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Got the head off today. It’s at the machine shop now. Getting hot tanked/cleaned up, valve job, minimal decking, and valve guides sleeved.
cylinders/cams look to be in great shape which is nice. 165k mile engine. I’ve taken it to the track 30 times.
I’ve dried up all the cylinders and soaked the shit outta everything in wd40. Rotated the engine a few times. More wd40. Should be safe from rusting. I can reapply if I feel like i need to. Oil and coolant is definitely going to need to be flushed out lol.
cylinders/cams look to be in great shape which is nice. 165k mile engine. I’ve taken it to the track 30 times.
I’ve dried up all the cylinders and soaked the shit outta everything in wd40. Rotated the engine a few times. More wd40. Should be safe from rusting. I can reapply if I feel like i need to. Oil and coolant is definitely going to need to be flushed out lol.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Supertech titanium valve train paid for and ordered. Will be here on Monday.
Oem valve stem seals from Honda ordered and paid for. Will be here on Monday.
Oem head bolts from Honda, ordered and paid for. Will be here on Monday.
I’ll need a head gasket still, some rtv, and I broke the connector on the vtc solenoid by accident so I’ll need one of those.
Hoping to have the car back together within the next 2-3 weeks at most.
Oem valve stem seals from Honda ordered and paid for. Will be here on Monday.
Oem head bolts from Honda, ordered and paid for. Will be here on Monday.
I’ll need a head gasket still, some rtv, and I broke the connector on the vtc solenoid by accident so I’ll need one of those.
Hoping to have the car back together within the next 2-3 weeks at most.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Since the timings all apart now would be the time…
I’m debating dropping my oil pan to upgrade oil pump. I’ve got a type R pump that’s for my built motor but I can use it here if I want to for now.
this would allow me to safely rev over 8500rpm. Basically 9k+. With the cams going in the car would make power to around 8800 for sure…
gotta drop the subframe though. It’s a bit of a pain, bit of work on my cold garage floor. Not sure if I should bother?
otherwise 9k+ won’t be until the built motor goes in…probably 2024. Fuckkk
I’m debating dropping my oil pan to upgrade oil pump. I’ve got a type R pump that’s for my built motor but I can use it here if I want to for now.
this would allow me to safely rev over 8500rpm. Basically 9k+. With the cams going in the car would make power to around 8800 for sure…
gotta drop the subframe though. It’s a bit of a pain, bit of work on my cold garage floor. Not sure if I should bother?
otherwise 9k+ won’t be until the built motor goes in…probably 2024. Fuckkk
jdab555
Greenie N00B Member
Sounds like you already know the answer to that question.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
Yea. It seems like I should just send it lol. Fuck
Throw the pump in. Don't hesitate just get it over with. You'll be a glad you did.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
My buddies are kinda saying the same. I’ll be majorly bummed if I don’t do it lol. Idk.
I’ve started looking into all the pieces I’ll need.
type r oil pump(easy to get, $300 on eBay)
Type r baffle(eBay)
Type r oil chain(eBay)
Type r chain guide(eBay)
Type r chain tensioner(out of stock on eBay. Kinda a problem)
Hardware for type r pump/baffle(goooooooodluck trying to find those part numbers)
there is an eBay seller who has everything listed above as a kit…of course it’s out of stock. Fuck.
4piston racing also offers a type r pump kit. It’s been ported as well allowing for consistent oil pressure to and past 11,000rpm. This entire kit ends up around 850cad shipped to my door.
piecing it together myself is approx $700cad if I can find everything.
what to do…
850 to get everything all at once or 700 to get everything over time and in separate pieces?
I'd spend the extra 150 bro. It's going to save you more time and have less of a headache.
I'd spend the extra 150 bro. It's going to save you more time and have less of a headache.
gotovato
Greenie N00B Member
So every single buddy I’ve asked said exactly the same thing. Like exactly the same.
Even my cheap ultra DIY buddy said the same.
guess I’m ordering the 4piston racing kit lol. I mean I’ll need it on my built motor anyways so I need to spend the money regardless on this setup. With shipping on all those separate pieces the price gap becomes closer to 90-100$ difference. I can accept that lol
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