iguardflorida
Greenie Member
beautiful, man! Thanks for sharing.
Cas' 800+ or Bust Build
beautiful, man! Thanks for sharing.
CMajor
Greenie Member
Thank you and no problem! Hopefully I can start posting again about my Mazda. I have some other exciting things in the works. (At least I'm excited). I'm not sure I wanna share yet since it's not 100% in stone but in due time.
CMajor
Greenie Member
Thank you! Forgot to say that yesterday but we fixed the brakes too. It was a bad wheel cylinder, only cost me 10 bucks so that was nice haha
@Maisonvi thanks man! Trust me I want it back. I started some investment stuff this past week with Forex. I'm hoping I can use that money that I make to fix the speed.
Great lookin CamEro (
), dude!
), dude!
CMajor
Greenie Member
That's sexy right there, I need something like that hahaHere is a shot of the surge tank I installed in the driver's front fenderwell to supply fuel for my PI setup
View attachment 4918
UrDroolinImSpoolin
Greenie Member
Updates? hows it going
CMajor
Greenie Member
Yeah I have a few updates, I've been crazy busy with school and work. I have my senior design project so that's taking up most of my weekends right now. If you're curious we're designing a portable sun tracking solar panel system. Anyways on to cars.
My fiance and I just bought a new CX-5 and I might like this car more than my speed haha. It's super nice, too bad she drives it most of the time.
On the bright side I got to take her 2012 Honda Civic to drive. I was spending roughly 300 bucks in gas every month on the Camaro. That is easily cut in half now with driving the Civic. I need to wash the Camaro and get her put away at least under my car cover. Finally with my tax return and my bonus coming up from work, I've been able to accumulate some money which is promising. Most will probably be going to my wedding though
I was actually planning on posting in here soon but I wanted to get the engine apart first. For anyone that follows me on Instagram, you would have seen that I FINALLY got the motor pulled this past weekend. I had some help on getting one of the axles removed but I did pretty much 95% of the work which I'm proud of haha. I have the oil pan pretty much separated from the block but I can't wiggle/pry it out between the trans and timing cover. I have to take the trans off any ways so I'm trying to decide how to go about it since it's so heavy and I'd rather not lay the engine on the oil pan while taking the trans off.
I went ahead and dropped some cash on the speed, nothing engine related but you can't put down power without a properly setup suspension. I pulled the trigger on buying a used set of KW V3s for 1200. You can't beat that with a lifetime warranty when they go for 2000 new. I'm selling my BCs for 500 to a friend so that makes up for some of the cost. Purchased an engine stand for my engine so I can give the hoist that I borrowed back to a local friend. I'm debating on building the engine myself but I haven't fully convinced myself that I'm ready for that.
I graduate April 29th so after that I'll have plenty of time to work on my car and get everything torn apart. I hope that it doesn't take that long but if all else fails I'll get to it around that time. I know this is a build thread for my car, so I apologize for going through my life story but I like sharing this stuff with you people for some reason. I feel it adds a personal touch haha.
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Kirk'sRedRocket
Greenie Member
Hey man can you give me some more info on how this set up did on stock block I have an opportunity to sell my parts and buy an s4 v2 for $500 with the difference and coincidently my friend has a Precision turbo 6266 with cpe exhaust mani, cosmic dump tube 4.5in intake custom Ram fab, and downpipe as well as external wastage from precision after selling my other parts this would cost me about $1200
i have a CS large core intercooler, PNP intake manifold i do have a gardian angle box as well and all the other little bolt on stuff so i have the choice to run the S4 or the 6266 but I'm stock block 70K miles on it what are your recommendations and can it be tuned safely for mid 300's? is Justin at freektune your tuner?
what do you think i should go for?
i have a CS large core intercooler, PNP intake manifold i do have a gardian angle box as well and all the other little bolt on stuff so i have the choice to run the S4 or the 6266 but I'm stock block 70K miles on it what are your recommendations and can it be tuned safely for mid 300's? is Justin at freektune your tuner?
what do you think i should go for?
CMajor
Greenie Member
Well for starters, that sounds like a pretty solid deal on the 6266 setup but if you're only looking for mid 300s safely the S4 seems like a better choice in my opinion. The word "safely" is very subjective when modifying your car lol.
The S4 will get you there easy and would be the cheapest route to go just because you can keep the stock exhaust mani and downpipe. The 6266 will by all means get you mid 300s but you'll start running out of fuel close to 400 due to how much air it flows.
Lastly, Mark Gibson tunes my car, not Justin. If you're still looking for a tuner, I recommend Rob Finkle at Hypnotic since Mark isn't taking any new customers. Hopefully that helps and answers your questions.
Heck if you're looking for mid 300's, an S3 would be more than enough...
Kirk'sRedRocket
Greenie Member
Do you know what the best way to contact Rob is?
and that is understood but what I'm wondering the most is that if i was to get this 6266 combo deal it would be everything i would need fro basically the life time of the car and I'm sure i could do the same on an S4
But theres literally a $900 dollar difference between just an S4 or everything that comes with the 6266 kit off edge for our cars
so what my big question is can i just get the 6266 install it on my car have a very conservative tune to keep it under 400 that is why i said mid 300's run it like that for a little bit and then install my meth kit that i have and then build block when i have the funds?
because the way i think is that my car has 70K although its been tuned and taken well care of its whole life its only a matter of time before ZZB happens so why not have the biggest turbo and baby it until i go built motor?
so like what i wanna know is can it be ran with a very conservative tune ?
BTW thank you to VTmongoose and Major for your reply I've finally signed up on here every response helps me.
CMajor
Greenie Member
I'd say through email or facebook is probably the best way to contact him.
Ultimately it's up to you but I've seen multiple people say to go with the S4, in your case, and I would suggest the same. If you're questioning it this much just buy both and install the S4 until you can afford the auxiliary fueling and built motor. I wouldn't buy a 6266 just to run it at spring pressure (which is pretty much what you'd have to do to stay in the mid 300s), there would be no point in having such a large turbo. I'd also suggest doing some more research and really narrowing down the path that you want to take with your car. It seems like you have some mixed ideas with what you want to do.
CMajor
Greenie Member
So I found the issue....
I found this out a couple of weeks ago but I've been super busy trying to finish up my last semester of school (Thank God). We couldn't finish taking it apart because I didn't about the bolts on the crank girdle being torque to yield so I tried to zip one off with an impact gun. Ended up rounding it a bit and we finished it off trying to remove it with a homemade breaker bar. I bought some sockets that will hopefully work to remove it.
I've been slowly ordering/buying stuff for my build and I'll post more pictures when I get a chance.
So far I have bought in no particular order:
KW V3s
Quaife LSD
4 2200cc injectors
EV6 to EV1 connectors for the injectors
Double hump coupler for compressor to hot side piping
Darton dry sleeves
Down payment on the 16wfab intake manifold
I'm in the market for pistons and I have made my decision that I want to go with high compression pistons. @Realgib3 and I were talking a few months ago and he basically convinced me on going that route just from our conversation. Plus you gain better efficiency overall; More power per psi, more TQ down low, better gas mileage, etc. The only downside is having to run a higher octane but that's really not an issue since E85 is plentiful in my area.
Now this leads into the compression ratio and what brand that I should go with. I was doing some reading on MSF about the Wiseco pistons not giving enough clearance for the oil squirters. I'm not sure if anyone knows if this has been resolved or not. My engine builder @Need2pu doesn't like the idea of bending the squirter so it clears and I agree with him so I'm just trying to weigh my options. @Enki, would you be able to give me some input on this? Mark told me he ran 12.5:1 and I'm thinking that's what I want as well which would mean custom pistons. I know your build, Enki, has the same compression ratio but obviously you achieved that ratio differently with destroking and whatnot. Any info is appreciated.
I found this out a couple of weeks ago but I've been super busy trying to finish up my last semester of school (Thank God). We couldn't finish taking it apart because I didn't about the bolts on the crank girdle being torque to yield so I tried to zip one off with an impact gun. Ended up rounding it a bit and we finished it off trying to remove it with a homemade breaker bar. I bought some sockets that will hopefully work to remove it.
I've been slowly ordering/buying stuff for my build and I'll post more pictures when I get a chance.
So far I have bought in no particular order:
KW V3s
Quaife LSD
4 2200cc injectors
EV6 to EV1 connectors for the injectors
Double hump coupler for compressor to hot side piping
Darton dry sleeves
Down payment on the 16wfab intake manifold
I'm in the market for pistons and I have made my decision that I want to go with high compression pistons. @Realgib3 and I were talking a few months ago and he basically convinced me on going that route just from our conversation. Plus you gain better efficiency overall; More power per psi, more TQ down low, better gas mileage, etc. The only downside is having to run a higher octane but that's really not an issue since E85 is plentiful in my area.
Now this leads into the compression ratio and what brand that I should go with. I was doing some reading on MSF about the Wiseco pistons not giving enough clearance for the oil squirters. I'm not sure if anyone knows if this has been resolved or not. My engine builder @Need2pu doesn't like the idea of bending the squirter so it clears and I agree with him so I'm just trying to weigh my options. @Enki, would you be able to give me some input on this? Mark told me he ran 12.5:1 and I'm thinking that's what I want as well which would mean custom pistons. I know your build, Enki, has the same compression ratio but obviously you achieved that ratio differently with destroking and whatnot. Any info is appreciated.
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Enki
Motorhead
Compression ratio target depends on power goals; you've listed 4x 2200 cc injectors so I can only assume that you will be shooting for >800 WHP, since 2x 1500cc injectors *should* be enough to get me to 600. If this is the case, you should probably consider stock compression ratio and more boost vs less boost and more CR; the reason for this, you may or may not already know:
Engine output basically boils down to cylinder pressure; how much force the explosion generates to push down on the piston. Too much, too soon and you get knock and bent rods; to little and you've basically wasted fuel. I bring this up and it's important because higher static compression generates more cylinder pressure at a given airflow and timing level than at lower compression ratios (depending on a fucking dump truck full of variables but you get the idea). Some perspective with a wildly inaccurate math example:
Static compression 9.5:1, 0 PSI boost = 14.7 psi manifold (sea level, ambient) = 139.65 pound inches compressed
Static compression 9.5:1, 10 psi boost = 24.7 psi manifold = 234.65 pound inches compressed
Static compression 12.5:1, 10 psi boost = 24.7 psi manifold = 308.75pound inches compressed
Static compression 12.5:1, 15 psi boost = 29.7 psi manifold = 445.5 pound inches compressed
Static compression 9.5:1, 30 psi boost = 44.7 psi manifold = 424.65 pound inches compressed
Static compression 12.5:1, 30 psi boost = 44.7 psi manifold = 558.75 pound inches compressed = 31% higher cylinder pressure (matches compression ratio increase)
Obviously this is more of a metaphor, but it serves to illustrate the point. Compression (effective/dynamic not specifically static which is basically engine stroke and piston dome) can go up via boost, cam grind, VVT, cooling, VE changes, and of course, piston changes. The thing is, when you add more compression (static, dynamic, etc) you also add more heat in the combustion chamber just before the spark kicks off, which means you're gonna need higher octane. While 160 octane of E100 is great in a DI engine, you might actually wind up running out of octane and into knock territory depending on what your goals are.
There's a reason I did a ton of flow mods to my car (including making the biggest diameter turboback that's probably ever been installed on one of these cars) and why I'm starting with a 10 PSI spring and that's because more boost = more heat that has to be removed (intercooled, etc) in order to keep knock thresholds low.
I kinda feel like I'm rambling at this point and I know I'm pretty goofy from lack of sleep already so I'll TLDR it down to this:
Depending on your goals, super high static compression ratio may not be ideal for your build and you may be better off increasing dynamic compression ratio (*custom* cams, basically) instead of fucking around with custom pistons. I did both on my build, but I'm not shooting for more than 450 at the wheel.
Food for thought; questions welcome as always.
Engine output basically boils down to cylinder pressure; how much force the explosion generates to push down on the piston. Too much, too soon and you get knock and bent rods; to little and you've basically wasted fuel. I bring this up and it's important because higher static compression generates more cylinder pressure at a given airflow and timing level than at lower compression ratios (depending on a fucking dump truck full of variables but you get the idea). Some perspective with a wildly inaccurate math example:
Static compression 9.5:1, 0 PSI boost = 14.7 psi manifold (sea level, ambient) = 139.65 pound inches compressed
Static compression 9.5:1, 10 psi boost = 24.7 psi manifold = 234.65 pound inches compressed
Static compression 12.5:1, 10 psi boost = 24.7 psi manifold = 308.75pound inches compressed
Static compression 12.5:1, 15 psi boost = 29.7 psi manifold = 445.5 pound inches compressed
Static compression 9.5:1, 30 psi boost = 44.7 psi manifold = 424.65 pound inches compressed
Static compression 12.5:1, 30 psi boost = 44.7 psi manifold = 558.75 pound inches compressed = 31% higher cylinder pressure (matches compression ratio increase)
Obviously this is more of a metaphor, but it serves to illustrate the point. Compression (effective/dynamic not specifically static which is basically engine stroke and piston dome) can go up via boost, cam grind, VVT, cooling, VE changes, and of course, piston changes. The thing is, when you add more compression (static, dynamic, etc) you also add more heat in the combustion chamber just before the spark kicks off, which means you're gonna need higher octane. While 160 octane of E100 is great in a DI engine, you might actually wind up running out of octane and into knock territory depending on what your goals are.
There's a reason I did a ton of flow mods to my car (including making the biggest diameter turboback that's probably ever been installed on one of these cars) and why I'm starting with a 10 PSI spring and that's because more boost = more heat that has to be removed (intercooled, etc) in order to keep knock thresholds low.
I kinda feel like I'm rambling at this point and I know I'm pretty goofy from lack of sleep already so I'll TLDR it down to this:
Depending on your goals, super high static compression ratio may not be ideal for your build and you may be better off increasing dynamic compression ratio (*custom* cams, basically) instead of fucking around with custom pistons. I did both on my build, but I'm not shooting for more than 450 at the wheel.
Food for thought; questions welcome as always.
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