Clutch Does Not Disengage

S

sacredmonkey92

Greenie N00B Member
Just rebuilt my motor, got a new clutch (factory), tob (factory), slave (dorman), master and lines (factory). Put it all back together, bled the system and the clutch will not disengage, it seems like the slave needs to move about 1/4 inch more, has anyone had an issue like this before? I took my trans back out and the clutch was installed properly and the fork and tob freely move. The clutch was a new part number but mazda dealer didn't say I needed a new pressure plate. Kinda baffled, going to try and toss a different slave in there and see what happens.
 
You can check the movement of the slave you ha e without getting a new one. Make sure that nothing is bent.

Check for a cracking clutch pedal assembly
 
I checked the movement of the slave, it moves, just doesnt move enough to fully disengage the clutch. with a pry bar i can move the clutch fork about a quarter inch more. Nothing is bent and the clutch pedal assembly looks fine to me.
 
Sorry to say this bruh, but your symptoms point to potentially having installed the clutch plate backwards.
If your wondering how I know this., tis because I hais done dat fail meself.
By all means try all else before you take the tranny down again. Just know that be might whats wrong.
Also dont try to force the gear out if the clutch wont disengage. Done that too and all that will accomplish is fuck up the synchros - even if you time the gear change and throttle input with speed of the gear correctly, which is referred to a clutchless shifting, it will invariable also fuck up the synchros no matter how many people say its possible.
 
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Have not found a solution yet. I didn’t install the clutch backwards, I pulled the tranny back out and everything looks fine.
 
For me it was clutch that stuck to the flywheel. I mounted the fidenza kit and did not remove the green coating. I managed to get it to take off but it keeps stuck together. I will have to disassemble to clean it
 
Grondin Giovanni said:
For me it was clutch that stuck to the flywheel. I mounted the fidenza kit and did not remove the green coating. I managed to get it to take off but it keeps stuck together. I will have to disassemble to clean it
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Well I put a factory clutch in it, it was a superseded number so maybe they changed the pressure plate as well? The mazda dealer I bought it from had no idea. I've been working on cars for 10 years and this has never happened to me.
 
sacredmonkey92 said:
Well I put a factory clutch in it, it was a superseded number so maybe they changed the pressure plate as well? The mazda dealer I bought it from had no idea. I've been working on cars for 10 years and this has never happened to me.
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Did you ever figure this issue out? Im currently having the same exact issues and im stumped and cannot find anymore info on this issue
 
very similar issues here. i installed new clutch kit, along with flywheel and all, i may or may not have bledd correctly
, but the my clutch pressed all the way down, and its pretty stiff with pressure, the clutch wont engage and i can sllightly hear the TOB spinning a bit. any advice or could it just be the SC?
 
joenotanthony said:
very similar issues here. i installed new clutch kit, along with flywheel and all, i may or may not have bledd correctly
, but the my clutch pressed all the way down, and its pretty stiff with pressure, the clutch wont engage and i can sllightly hear the TOB spinning a bit. any advice or could it just be the SC?
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Your issue sounds like it just needs bled better. I would just give it some solid pumps and go through the motions 5-10 times again and make sure that all the air is out. Also, to bleed it make sure that the brake fluid reservoir is all the way full between times of cracking the bleeder valve open. Clutch not engaging is usually not bled enough or bad slave if no attempts of extra bleeding work.
 
StreetSpeed6 said:
Your issue sounds like it just needs bled better. I would just give it some solid pumps and go through the motions 5-10 times again and make sure that all the air is out. Also, to bleed it make sure that the brake fluid reservoir is all the way full between times of cracking the bleeder valve open. Clutch not engaging is usually not bled enough or bad slave if no attempts of extra bleeding work.
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ill definitely try to bleeding routine more accurately this time. hopefully its not the slave and i can save some bucks lol. thank you bro, much appreciated
 
Starting at the master, bleed the system from top to bottom cracking each fitting in the same manner as the bleeder screw on the slave. Work all the way down to the slave bleeder. If your problem persists, you do not have a bleed problem. Air can be trapped further up the line and it can be hard to move it along with regular bleeding.
 
SyntheticAtmosphere said:
Starting at the master, bleed the system from top to bottom cracking each fitting in the same manner as the bleeder screw on the slave. Work all the way down to the slave bleeder. If your problem persists, you do not have a bleed problem. Air can be trapped further up the line and it can be hard to move it along with regular bleeding.
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Mine went fairly well bleeding it but I gravity bled it first for about an hour letting it have a slow/medium paced drip and then done then pumping action to finish it off. Seemed to work well
 
I used this, it is nice in that it will pull vacuum so with bleeder opened just enough for bubble flow. After a pint of fluid (flushing too) my new slave felt soft also. So kept going but while bleeder was drawing a small amount I hand pushed pedal just enough to know master piston had moved and after that slight amount of pedal movement I believe a bubble had lodged but then moved though system. Did that twice. Stop, close bleeder, try pedal feel, redone again. Worked...
https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...-repair/brakes/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

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