clutch goes soft after boost

yes but if it were the clutch or TOB why does rebleeding the clutch restore operation? It has to be hydraulic related.

while the reservoir is not supposed to impact a relation between the brake and clutch but .... In the end they are connected in the sealed system which could some how transfer pressure from the brake system to the clutch system. I am going to try and isolate it tonight.
 
Have you done a bleed w/ a power bleeder? Manual bleeding rarely ever gets all the air out. (I'm a Dev/Val Engineer for M/T Systems so I do this stuff way too much).

Really if the feel comes back after you bleed it = air in the system for sure. There has to be a spot in your system that is allowing air to creep in if it totally loses engagement since it's not a self-ratcheting PP or anything like that.
 
HawkeyeGeoff said:
Have you done a bleed w/ a power bleeder? Manual bleeding rarely ever gets all the air out. (I'm a Dev/Val Engineer for M/T Systems so I do this stuff way too much).

Really if the feel comes back after you bleed it = air in the system for sure. There has to be a spot in your system that is allowing air to creep in if it totally loses engagement since it's not a self-ratcheting PP or anything like that.
Click to expand...
My Spec 3+ is a self ratcheting PP, but even then bleeding it just once or two pumps restores the pedal. Also, after the pedal fails if i go under the car and watch the slave it barely moves if at all maybe 1/2 an inch instead of the 2" throw it normally has. After the fast short bleed ti restores full throw.

Someone else suggested its air in the system so I am going to try and bleed it further.

tried a Mity vac to self bleed, but it just sucks air in from around the tube and the brake bleed fitting itself at the threads just sucks out air so all i see is a torrent of turbulent fluid with tons of air. Why would vacuuming make a difference just curious.
[doublepost=1471467305][/doublepost]just ordered this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271887389937

see what happens
 
Nitr0EngiE said:
My Spec 3+ is a self ratcheting PP, but even then bleeding it just once or two pumps restores the pedal. Also, after the pedal fails if i go under the car and watch the slave it barely moves if at all maybe 1/2 an inch instead of the 2" throw it normally has. After the fast short bleed ti restores full throw.

Someone else suggested its air in the system so I am going to try and bleed it further.

tried a Mity vac to self bleed, but it just sucks air in from around the tube and the brake bleed fitting itself at the threads just sucks out air so all i see is a torrent of turbulent fluid with tons of air. Why would vacuuming make a difference just curious.
[doublepost=1471467305][/doublepost]just ordered this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271887389937

see what happens
Click to expand...

Okay well even if it is a self-adjusting clutch, you can rule that out. Once it adjusts (first time you push the pedal down before you start the vehicle, theoretically) it cannot adjust back without removing it and ripping apart the PP. And it's obvious that there's some problem with air in the system.

@phate; showed me this method. On our vehicles seems to be the best i've found and fixed my hard to bleed issue even after using the power bleeder a few times (I have the same one you ordered).
- Bleed the dick out of it with the power bleeder (keep the bleeder ~20 psi during this process)
- After said bleeding the dick out of it and keeping ~20 psi on the power bleeder, open the bleed valve and have someone slowly shimmy the pedal down (very small up and down movements on the pedal until you reach the floor). Close the valve. Repeat this a few times for good luck.
-Win.

Edit:
Mighty vac should be used at the reservoir. At work we put a vacuum on this portion for ~20 minutes, pump the pedal a few times and call it good. I don't have access to a compressor or their fancy vacuum tool so I just use the pump style.
 
HawkeyeGeoff said:
Okay well even if it is a self-adjusting clutch, you can rule that out. Once it adjusts (first time you push the pedal down before you start the vehicle, theoretically) it cannot adjust back without removing it and ripping apart the PP. And it's obvious that there's some problem with air in the system.

@phate; showed me this method. On our vehicles seems to be the best i've found and fixed my hard to bleed issue even after using the power bleeder a few times (I have the same one you ordered).
- Bleed the dick out of it with the power bleeder (keep the bleeder ~20 psi during this process)
- After said bleeding the dick out of it and keeping ~20 psi on the power bleeder, open the bleed valve and have someone slowly shimmy the pedal down (very small up and down movements on the pedal until you reach the floor). Close the valve. Repeat this a few times for good luck.
-Win.

Edit:
Mighty vac should be used at the reservoir. At work we put a vacuum on this portion for ~20 minutes, pump the pedal a few times and call it good. I don't have access to a compressor or their fancy vacuum tool so I just use the pump style.
Click to expand...

so while pushing down the pedal are we still applying pressure with the power bleeder or is that disconnected at this point?
 
Nitr0EngiE said:
so while pushing down the pedal are we still applying pressure with the power bleeder or is that disconnected at this point?
Click to expand...

So the first time you do it, use the power bleeder like normal. Apply pressure to the power bleeder and just bleed it.

The 2nd time you do it, do the same thing but this time do the shimmy down w/ the clutch pedal. Close the bleeder valve before you bring the pedal back up though so you do not draw air through. Do some traditional hold+bleeds for good measure as well after you did all this (pump the clutch pedal a few times, hold it down, open the bleeder valve, close the bleeder valve, bring the pedal back up, repeat). Just throw the kitchen sink at it.
 
Sooo, Update...

I got the Motive break/clutch bleeder and put an entire bottle of fluid through the clutch line, and there is no way there is air in the lines, that fluid was gushing out with nice volume. Took it out to test and the same problem occurred, So its not air bubble which I did not think there was. Last thing I can do is disconnect brake booster and try without it. I am getting tired of rebleeding the fucking clutch and testing with disappointment.... Im so over this. its looking like I need a clutch
 
This happened with my first 6 puck. When replacing the clutch, found the TOB was damaged and it also bent a couple fingers on the pressure plate.
 
Did the OP ever found the cause of the problem? I am having the same issue.. I can shift some what normal below 3,000rpm if I go over and or hit boost the clutch pedal gets soft or gets stuck to the floor..

I replaced my clutch last year using the LUK kit and fidanza lite flywheel. But back in last Dec I had to replace the Master and slave.. and this past June it started acting up again and the fluid in the reservoir got black. I bled the system and got rid of the contamination and it worked more less fine until the past few weeks..

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 
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