Crank Keying Crank, Pulley and Spockets

Im 500+ whp and just friction washered. But looking at it when I did it I would have had to spend a whole lot more than $90 to have it done. That and my block was already assembled by a builder. Would I have liked it keyed? Of course. Is it needed? No, just a nice thing to have for both a slim chance of issue, and if you ever have to take it apart again.
 
Maisonvi said:
Im 500+ whp and just friction washered. But looking at it when I did it I would have had to spend a whole lot more than $90 to have it done. That and my block was already assembled by a builder. Would I have liked it keyed? Of course. Is it needed? No, just a nice thing to have for both a slim chance of issue, and if you ever have to take it apart again.
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$90 dam...In Cali, the cheapest was 300$ for the set
 
I would probably even pay $300 since like I said earlier I'm retarded so the more safety/protection I can get the better.
 
Just adding some VERY important information for anyone who might read this down the road. IF you go to your local machine shop to get your crank keyed, there's like a 99% chance they're going to use a broach and a press to key your sprockets and you're gonna have a bad time. This is a *NORMAL* procedure for keying sprockets and will work perfectly fine for the crank pulley. However, our timing and oil pump gears are so hard and brittle they will crack before you can even broach 1mm into them. If they try carbide cutters they will radius the edges. The ONLY proper way I've seen so far is EDM cutting. That's how Massive Speed does it, how Speed Perf6rmanc3 does it, and how your shop should do it, too. If your shop doesn't do EDM cutting, find another shop.

Ask me how I know:
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My build: keyed by SP63, pinned by me.
The keying on mine was slightly off too. Sensor fully seated to one side was almost perfect alignment. I figure it's off by about 1 degree.
 

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Further fuck-up to add to the above cracked sprockets. The same shop that cracked the sprockets also apparently keyed the crank upside down and I just now noticed after a week of trying to figure out why my new built motor wouldn't start. The keyway should be at top dead center of cylinder 1/4 on the crank, and the bolt hole in the crank pulley should be at 180 degrees from the keyway (on the bottom). NOT on the same side, like these morons did.
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Solarsurge said:
Further fuck-up to add to the above cracked sprockets. The same shop that cracked the sprockets also apparently keyed the crank upside down and I just now noticed after a week of trying to figure out why my new built motor wouldn't start. The keyway should be at top dead center of cylinder 1/4 on the crank, and the bolt hole in the crank pulley should be at 180 degrees from the keyway (on the bottom). NOT on the same side, like these morons did.
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Damn, thats some rough shit.
 
Solarsurge said:
Further fuck-up to add to the above cracked sprockets. The same shop that cracked the sprockets also apparently keyed the crank upside down and I just now noticed after a week of trying to figure out why my new built motor wouldn't start. The keyway should be at top dead center of cylinder 1/4 on the crank, and the bolt hole in the crank pulley should be at 180 degrees from the keyway (on the bottom). NOT on the same side, like these morons did.
1fa59d4094bf999412c3afffa4ddcf55.jpg
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That sucks, but can’t you just pry the timing teeth apart from the pulley and turn that 180 degrees as press it back on with your manly thumbs? Should still work, no?


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Littleloogy said:
That sucks, but can’t you just pry the timing teeth apart from the pulley and turn that 180 degrees as press it back on with your manly thumbs? Should still work, no?


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That bolt hole being in the correct location serves several functional purposes including, but not limited to, knowing what degree my crank is at without putting screw drivers in my cylinders. An upside down crank pulley does not.


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Solarsurge said:
That bolt hole being in the correct location serves several functional purposes including, but not limited to, knowing what degree my crank is at without putting screw drivers in my cylinders. An upside down crank pulley does not.


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Click to expand...

That is true and drilling taping a new hole in the timing cover would be a big pain in the ass and confusing to anyone who works on your engine in the future. Just was throwing ideas out there man.


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Not to revive dead threads wanted to pass along some info I came across regarding the keyed crank costs. As I was doing research into the popularity of the 2.5 ford short block replacement for our 2.3 motors for when the ZZB happens, and came across a huge difference in costs!

Massive is selling the Keyed Mazdaspeed crank for $1,200. And the 2.5 Ford Fusion Keyed crank for under $500.

Aren't these the same thing?

~ Ian
 
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